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You will never get them back in as tight as the factory put them in originally. One alternative would be using shortened wheel studs and a nut. From the outside of the frame the visible head will not look all that different to a rivet head. And you can really torque those suckers down. http://www.lr...

The female spline is probably just as worn as the male.

The male can be welded up and milled, and then heat treated, but the female is a whole lot bigger problem to repair.

I think you need both if you are serious.

Good calipers, a micrometer, and plastigauge, plus some feeler gauges and a dial indicator are probably all you need to measure just about anything on an engine.
All have their unique uses.

There are quite a few applications where the bearing loading is virtually all on a cap, not in the bearing half located in the main bed of a machine. In that case, it is quite acceptable practice to skim the cap, to close up any excessive bearing clearance without effectively moving the bearing cent...

If its only one trip per year, adding up all the pennies, it may be cheaper to rent something suitably huge, just for the occasion.

To be a bit more specific, yes its stamped on the top flat of the frame rail.
On the LEFT HAND front frame rail.
With the body on it is covered up, and cannot be seen.

And don't forget to snap a rare earth magnet onto every one of your oil drain plugs.
These will pick up a grey metal "fuzz" that will truly astound you.

The frame had four brackets, two on each side. Do you guys have any idea what they were used for, just curious. Most likely the wider bed off another truck has been fitted to that chassis at some stage, or maybe something really weird like a really big liquid storage tank that already had mounting ...

I don't understand the question, but here it is: http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r166/Warpspeed_photos/Chassis4.jpg I still say this is a 28-29 Canadian chassis. According to my Canadian parts book that rear axle was only used in 28-29 so they did not use the humped cross member , they did not us...

I believe (although I am not absolutely certain of this) that the AA had two different front axles, a heavy version and a light version. The light version being the same as fitted to the Model A car. I base this on showing pictures here on this Forum of my own 29 AA, and was told I have the "li...

The zinc seems to pretty much dissolve in the Lye until the solution is saturated with zinc. Adding further zinc shavings, they just sit at the bottom of the tank and appear to do nothing. It doesn't take a lot of zinc to do this. All the other chemical and electrical methods I have tried seem to st...

No liquid would remain liquid at 800f. This must be a typo. What he is talking about is heating an engine block in an oven to release stuck and rusted in side valves. There is no liquid involved. A bit like heating a badly rusted nut with an oxy acetylene torch. It has nothing at all directly to do...

I just succeeded in finding the original article by Googling the first sentence. It still says 800 F. But for the normal recommended de rusting process, you don't need anything like that. 150F, 200F, 250F all work fine, higher temp just makes it work faster. I have used everything from a stainless s...

A very interesting method! (Is that a typo I have highlighted?) I have absolutely no idea ! I just copied and pasted the entire article as I had saved it a few yeas back. Sounds pretty drastic. The Lye + zinc + heat method definitely works. It also works without heat, but it takes weeks not hours t...

I have never tried molasses, but I have tried quite a few other methods, most of which did not work very well, or not work at all. Many of these methods simply aggressively attack and dissolve the rust o/k, but leave the remaining steel pitted and vulnerable to very quickly re rusting. This followin...