aa-fords.com

Thanks Knuck, but I'm not really shooting for originality with this one. I want it to have what I can only refer to as "that new tractor" look. You can view most of my "sins" thus far at http://www.smokypond.com/gallery/pictures/1930+Ford+AA/partsisparts/ Not really too sinful th...

Your right on as far as the integrity of the metal prior to powder coat, John. I was fortunate. My truck spent nearly 60 years harvesting apples. When the harvest was complete, the truck went into the barn or some other out-building. Apparently it never saw the open road. It had absolutely no rust o...

I powder coated mine, along with most of the other chassis components. It looks great and it's REALLY tough stuff. The downside is that it is also very hard to remove. That won't be an issue for you though if you make the right decisions regarding color and gloss level. However, when the next guy ha...

Neil Wilson wrote:..... Attached is a Ford archive picture of the 1930 long wheel base stake truck......

Neil,

A bit off the subject here, but what color do you think that truck is? The grey of the cab in the B&W photo looks quite light for Rock Moss Green.

-Matt

No threads. But you may want to spray some penetrating oil on it before driving it out if it's extremely rusty.

Eric, See my 'Parts is Parts' gallery at http://www.smokypond.com/gallery/pictures/1930+Ford+AA/ I'm a little bit further along than what you see in the pics there, having installed the front spindles just a couple of weeks ago. Now that summer is here, progress has slowed. It seems that I have all ...

Eric,

You pulled ahaead of me! You got front wheels on it!

-Matt

Bert, I probably should have posted a response here sooner. I turned this issue over to my insurer, Hagerty Classic Insurance. Hagerty and their agents did some investigating, then informed me that the Michigan Secretary of States office (SOS) had done a little back-pedalling by admitting that no le...

Measure the O.D. of the bushing. If it's 1.125" or larger, the bushing should stay in place. If not, the bore in the spindle is worn oversize. In that case, rather than Loctite, take a center-punch and make some divets inside the spindle bore Make 4 to 6 divets evenly all the way around the ins...

Last Friday, I went to the Michigan Secretary of States office (our equivalent of the DMV) to renew the license plate for my early '30 AA stake truck. When I got there, I was told that I could no longer use the personalized "1930" plate that I had or any other personalized plate for that m...

Matt, I'm interested in knowing if the synthetic lube you are planning to use finds any place to seep from on your differential. I'm hoping that it doesn't seep. The viscosity of SHC-634 is exactly the same as 600W, which it was made to replace. BTW, the pitting you show in the picture would be ins...

Neil, I can find the steering arms for the Model 'A' car in both Brattons's and Snyder's catalog, but not the arms for the truck. The arms on my truck look heavier than those on the cars, and the info I have indicates that the 1930 front axle DID NOT use the same steering arms as the car. The truck ...

Thanks for letting me know about the pitman arm. But I'm running 6.50 X 20 tires on the front and I'll probably end up shortening the pitman arm so that the tires don't hit the brake rods when making sharp turns. I wouldn't want to cut up a NOS part for that. Now, does anyone know of a source for th...

Anyone know of another source for rebuilt steering arms, other than Sacramento Vintage Ford (SVF). I have no gripes with SVF, just looking for something closer to Michigan if possible.

Thanks,
Matt

How do you guys with the beutifully smooth finished wheels do it? Do you use body filler to fill in the minor pitting that seems to be found on most of these wheels? I'm interested in a process/finish that will last at least 7+ years.

Thanks,
Matt