aa-fords.com

I've heard that most guys ship fenders Greyhound, suppose to be the cheapest way.

Bob

Is this the same Wheel?
http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/5 ... photo.aspx

Bob

I looked in Snyder's catalog and they only show the outer rubber
pad in the float-a-motor kit.

The instructions in Bratton's catalog say the rubber pad goes on
the outside of the frame rail.

Bob

You don't need a sleeve if you use a 6203-5/8 bearing. The original 6203 bearing is 17mm ID 40mm OD 12mm W
the 6203-5/8 is 5/8" ID 40mm OD 12mm W.

Bob

Sorry Brian I didn't notice you posted the picture of the school bus frame, I thought
Duckroost posted it. I guess that's why it has a 29 cross member.

Bob

How come the frame has a 29 cross member?

Bob

Neil, Here is a picture of a school bus spring I saw on
Ebay awhile back.

You might try Bert's in Denver, they seem to be a source of
good used parts. http://www.modelastore.com

Bob

Which U-joint do you need? Some replacement coupling shafts had a u-joint at the transmission
or do you need the u-joint between the coupling shaft and drive shaft?

I found this picture on Marco's great web site. It shows the clamp
on the ignition switch cable.

Bob

The longer stud is for the armored ignition cable clamp. I think it
is stud #8 in the tightening sequence.

Bob

John, I'm going to put this Ford 60hp (actually a French Ford Vedette) in a 2n.

Instead of drilling the contact or changing it I've taken the push rod out of the stock switch and put a small piece of heater hose between the top of the contact spring and the switch cover. When you put the switch back on the starter the hose will keep the switch contact against the starter contact.

I think the problem comes when the crankshaft and the coupling shaft are not on the
same plane, as when the front of the engine is to high or to low. Ford came out
with a replacement coupling shaft for the AA in 1932 that had u-joints and both ends.