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You guys got the right idea on the heating. There is also a "suction/pump" device you can purchase at a local tool or auto store that makes changing or filling the rear end or other gear boxes easier. It looks like, and is about the size of a large grease gun with an 3/8 x 18 inch hose. It...

The 1928-29 rear axle worm type were of 2 types: 7.25 -1 low speed, AA-4000-AR 5.17 -1 high speed, AA-4000-BR Check your Service Bulletins, concerning speedometer driving gear information, page 392/393. It gives information as to physical size, number of teeth, etc. It also mentions the 5.11 and 7.1...

I'm guessing you did adjust the brakes so their is no pressure on the drums?

Mark

I believe all axle nuts are right hand. Any references I have found on the AA rear axle nuts have said "securely tighten", then after service for approximately 100 miles, tighten again.
The torque on the Model A axle nuts is 125 ft/lbs.

Mark

Since I can't hear your gear noises, it's difficult to analyze your noise problem, but let me ask you this, since I don't know what model year you have. Is your tranny a 3 spd or 4 spd? With the 3 spd you have the addition of the Dual High in your drive train. Is the noise coming from your tranny or...

Your a wealth of articulated information Neil. I wish I could have attended AA Boot Camp with you.

Mark

Most literature I find concerning painting, does not require painting the sheet metal prior to installing, although a few people have done that procedure with the Model A’s, because they wanted the black welting to show. Of course with this method you run the risk of scratches on the final finish du...

Sitting in the drivers seat, L is on your left side and R is on your right side.

Mark

Happy Holidays and keep warm.

Glad to hear you resolved your carburetor problem. :D Can you define a little more what you mean by “loud”? Are you talking about gearing noises or engine noises? The AA truck was never a quite truck and always has something to say, especially in the tranny in first and second gear, but you mentione...

The drawing is generic and was meant to generate conversation which it did do. akstraw is correct in his remark that the ignition switch is between the coil and distributer. A few different gap suggestions were made on this post. Ford’s gap settings are listed in several places, the most current is ...

If your getting 6v at the coil, your key switch should be OK (see diagram). This is a standard points/condenser coil ignition system. The spark generating circuits are the points, which when closed applies a ground to the secondary winding of the coil, and allows the voltage to build up in the secon...

If you want to install a mirror in the cab, you may want to consider a vintage mirror from a 30/31 Model A Sedan or Coupe.

Mark

Your points should be adjusted to .020 Where did you come up with .027? :shock: I think your points aren't closing. You also might want to check if your adjusting your points at TDC of #1 piston? Are you using any Instruction manual to set up your points and timing? Set your #1 piston at TDC using t...

No difference! The old setting was .027, but in May 1930, Ford recommended it be changed to .035, and it shouldn't matter what plug you have unless you have some kind of "specialty" spark plug, then follow that plugs recommendations. :D If an engine doesn't idle properly, often all that is...

In the 1933 Model year, the four-cylinder engine continued unchanged, but was referred to (by some) as the Model C. Ford Motor Company never referred to its "Improved Four-Cylinder engine" as a "Model C" engine. This is a common misconception due the introduction of a larger coun...