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I apologize guys, its not the width of the board itself I need. It's the width of the entire truck - outside of passenger running board to outside of driver running board. Both at the back of the cab, and again at the back edge of the boards themselves. See, I've got this trailer that has a bed tha...

i saw several ideas about paint, tape, etc. on the shoes. what did you finally find worked best. are your shoes braided or smooth? and then did you apply a small bit of pressure and have someone turn the drum by hand for contact. thank you for your help in advance. kevin I used masking tape first t...

Just went through that process on mine. Arching matches the drum ID to the lining OD. That is all it dose. this gives 100% contact area so there fore more / better breaking action. If the drums look good, then match the linings to them via checking for contact area. Once all the "high" spo...

My '28 running boards are the short ones. They are as wide as the front fenders and go straight back. Parallel. From all the photos I have from the Gilmore museum, that is how they go. Good luck with your project.

Kim, I appreciate your efforts as well. That sounds a bit narrow if the stock ones are 3" wider. I know I'm creating a bit of a unicorn here, but I just want things to look good and right when it's all done. Again. Mine is a '28 so it may be a different size than a '29. You could get some numbe...

Just measured my '28, 73-1/4" outside to outside of the bed..( Original bed). 64-3/8" outside to outside of running boards. Not original.
I hope this helps.

is this a good match for a AA in your opinion? i have a four speed with a 5:17 ratio worm drive rear end. it was converted to 4 speed years ago. it is a dec. 28. how much more speed could be safely exprected? and how easy is it to install and what do they go for? any insight, experience appreciated...

The part I need is the part that has 8 holes and bolts to the worm gear, I think its called a cage, part # AA 4205, one side of mine is cracked and I don't want to weld it. thanks nick c Nick: think this through. A part that will never be seen, the truck will probably never carry a 'Load" agai...

njcar757 wrote: ↑

July 23rd, 2017, 4:46 am

Does anyone here have a theory on why they crack?
nick c

TT leftover part used on a 1-1/2 ton truck. Just too week. Same reason Wheels, and frt. axel were upgraded. Just too week. No Finite Element analysis back then. Just, " lets try this" engineering.

Chris Haynes wrote: ↑

July 22nd, 2017, 11:37 am

Clear your browser history and try the link again.

If I had a clue how to do that I would.

Try a Shop Vac?

I saw the glue sandpaper on the hub trick. This changes the I.D. of the drum to something less and then will leave you with linings that are "arched" too small to match the drum dia.. Spotting is not exact but I can get within .003" and the rest will wear in. Takes time but my time i...

Expert, no. S.A. yes.

I saw the glue sandpaper on the hub trick. This changes the I.D. of the drum to something less and then will leave you with linings that are "arched" too small to match the drum dia.. Spotting is not exact but I can get within .003" and the rest will wear in. Takes time but my time is...

After looking up how to arch breaks I found a line that talked about just sanding down the High spots to get them to fit / hold better. So I followed the process by putting masking tape on the linings, then put the drum on and expand the shoes and rotate the drum. What I found out is that the 'high'...

macswoods wrote: ↑

July 19th, 2017, 10:06 am

Parts of stainless, I have had to use on my AA (tail lights, head lite buckets, etc.) I sand blasted and painted. Some times ya can 't get original, who is going to know but you!

Now we all know !!!!!