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birdacre and I have been sending emails back and forth regarding the bearing lubrication. I took some photos of mine and sent them to him, but I thought the info might be of use here. It is my belief that the bearings are lubricated from the u-joints, but why wouldn't a press-in grease fitting work ...

I sent a message to you. The roller bearings must get their lubrication from both ends. I do not see seals in either end... I still have the parts...

Frank

Yes, mine is the same worm ratio as yours. From what I understand, they have not made many to fit this rear. Call Mitchell, they can give you the latest price.

Frank

I recently took delivery on a Mitchell 36% overdrive, but have not installed it yes. VERY easy to install. I assembled it to a spare rebuilt rear. Next is to change assemblies with the one in the truck. I'll do that in the next week or so, if time permits. Very well built and the parts just go toget...

I was lurking on ebay the other day and discovered that a ujoint for a 35 - 39 Ford 3/4 and 1 ton truck has 6 spline front and 10 spline rear holes that are about the same. I say about, because when I asked the seller to measure the spine diameters, they responded with numbers very close to what i m...

OK, I'm getting some parts together while I wait for the Mitchell to arrive. Things like torque tube gaskets, collar pins, seals, etc. One puzzle for you AA gurus, I ordered the replacement collar pins, expecting to get two soft pins that need to be mashed once installed, like the ones I drilled out...

I found the pin set at Snyders, guess I just read past it... I got the coupling off, no heat, no big hammer. Sometimes the Force is with you. I drilled the pins (amazingly soft) and put my bearing separator with a couple of 1/2" bolts and pushed it off. I hope the rest of the installation goes ...

After some thought, I have decided that the best way is to drill out both pins and pull the long drive shaft along with the coupling away from the worm. Then I can pull the coupling from the drive shaft. I had thought prior to this that the coupling could stay on the work and avoid removing both pin...

I had to drill out the pin, but out it came. Now the splined drive shaft is tight in the coupling. I'm going to need a puller of some kind, but I'm out of ideas. Any suggestions???

Frank

I just got the call from Mitchell. My gear splitter will be mailed to me on Friday. I've been waiting for 4 months and can't wait. Now to my question. I have a spare rear end with torque tube and radius rods in the barn. Since I want to consolidate some space I thought I would remove the torque tube...

I experienced similar hop from the front end of my 28. I systematically went through the front end (tie rod, pitman arm, drag link) and had the front tires balanced. The wheels are the wire type and were grossly out of balance. This did not stop the bounce. I then checked the front shocks and found ...

Early 28 frame w/springs for sale. left side ebrake handle. Does not include the front axle or wheels that are in the photo. $500. Can deliver to Hershey. Frank 518-755-0986.

4 nice wire wheels with 650x20 Firestone tires. $750 set. Can deliver to Hershey. Frank 518-755-0986.

28-29 coupling shaft, complete with torque tube, shaft, hardware. No universal joints included...Excellent condition. $250. Frank 518-755-0986.

It is my understanding that this unit replaced the short shaft when Ford went from the 3 speed to the 4 speed transmission. Others who know more than I can chime in...

Frank