Engine Oil
- wv model AA
- Posts: 71
- Joined: April 16th, 2013, 9:24 am
- Body Type: Dump truck
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Shepherdstown, WV
Engine Oil
Now that I have had my AA truck a year; I want to change the oil before spring.
What is the recommended Engine Oil "off the shelf" you folks recommend for the 4cyl. flat head to keep it running good?
What is the recommended Engine Oil "off the shelf" you folks recommend for the 4cyl. flat head to keep it running good?
West Virginia Model AA
"Hold My Beer and Watch This..."
"Hold My Beer and Watch This..."
- Chris Haynes
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: September 7th, 2003, 5:18 pm
- Body Type: 82A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Camarillo, CA
Re: Engine Oil
Use something wet and slippery. Asking which oil is best is opening a can of worms.
-
- Posts: 478
- Joined: June 3rd, 2013, 6:15 pm
- Body Type: 186-B stake
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: LHC Arizona & UP Michigan
Re: Engine Oil
I use 15w-40 in most of my older cars, trucks & tractors. If a Model A engine is not very clean straight 30 might be best. If the Model A engine is somewhat "worn" I would use straight 40. Straight 30 or 40 are for moderate or warmer temperatures of course. Just my 2 cents, since you asked.
- spectria
- Posts: 1874
- Joined: May 15th, 2008, 9:53 pm
- Body Type: Mail Truck, Stakebed
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Quincy, Ca.
Re: Engine Oil
Non-detergent for an older engine that has no filtering capability. You don't want to begin floating settled solids through your Babbitt. JMEOModelAkid wrote:I use 15w-40 in most of my older cars, trucks & tractors. If a Model A engine is not very clean straight 30 might be best. If the Model A engine is somewhat "worn" I would use straight 40. Straight 30 or 40 are for moderate or warmer temperatures of course. Just my 2 cents, since you asked.
Dave in Quincy, Ca. I love Pics!!!! Post them All!!!
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
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- Posts: 1223
- Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
- Body Type: Grainbox
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Illinois
Re: Engine Oil
i just use 10w40 gtx conventional.
- BrianT
- Posts: 254
- Joined: October 25th, 2013, 8:27 am
- Body Type: 82A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: San Diego, California
Re: Engine Oil
What do you know about your engine, rebuilt recently, oil pan removed for cleaning?, if not sure then it would be best to remove the pan for cleaning, if it is dirty then the valve cover should be removed and cleaned, plenty of info on the Fordbarn on how to do this safely, afterwards use ONLY detergent oil, most seem to use Rotella 15/40 as I do, or any other oil used for modern diesel engines.
Regards Brian.
Regards Brian.
- 1crosscut
- Posts: 877
- Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Lincoln, NE
Re: Engine Oil
Perhaps your question could be answered better if we had more information. Is this an engine that has never been rebuilt and has sludge in it from using the non detergent oil from yester year or is it a rebuild and has been fed detergent oil since the rebuild?
If new rebuild any of the modern detergent multi viscosity oils are just fine. 10w30 and 15w30 are the most common. Both will work just fine.
Putting a detergent oil in an engine that has sludge build up due to using non detergent oil has the potential of breaking some of the sludge loose to cause mischief in your engine.
On the multi viscosity oils the lower number refers to the ability of the oil to flow at cold temperatures as if it was a 10wt or a 15w oil. Even though it flows at colder temperatures like a lower viscosity oil it still lubricates like a 30wt oil at all temperatures.
Dave
If new rebuild any of the modern detergent multi viscosity oils are just fine. 10w30 and 15w30 are the most common. Both will work just fine.
Putting a detergent oil in an engine that has sludge build up due to using non detergent oil has the potential of breaking some of the sludge loose to cause mischief in your engine.
On the multi viscosity oils the lower number refers to the ability of the oil to flow at cold temperatures as if it was a 10wt or a 15w oil. Even though it flows at colder temperatures like a lower viscosity oil it still lubricates like a 30wt oil at all temperatures.
Dave
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Dave
Dave
- wv model AA
- Posts: 71
- Joined: April 16th, 2013, 9:24 am
- Body Type: Dump truck
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Shepherdstown, WV
Re: Engine Oil
Okay guys, I'll confess.
When I bought the truck, I have no idea the status on the engine. It was in storage basically for 15 years, that was hardly ever ran by its previous owner. However; it runs good ! I put about 20 miles on it last year. When I bought the truck, it came with a 5 gallon bucket of Castrol 30 sae oil, never open.
I hate messing with 5 gallon buckets.
I have a truck show to attend 5 miles away in a couple of weeks at the Washington County Ag Center on April 5th. http://www.ruralheritagemuseum.org/events.shtm
Basically; I was going to charge & install the battery, put gas in it, change the oil, check the radiator fluids, take the truck off on its jack stands and "start-er up"
I REALLY DO ENJOY HEARING ALL YOUR THOUGHTS.
When I bought the truck, I have no idea the status on the engine. It was in storage basically for 15 years, that was hardly ever ran by its previous owner. However; it runs good ! I put about 20 miles on it last year. When I bought the truck, it came with a 5 gallon bucket of Castrol 30 sae oil, never open.
I hate messing with 5 gallon buckets.
I have a truck show to attend 5 miles away in a couple of weeks at the Washington County Ag Center on April 5th. http://www.ruralheritagemuseum.org/events.shtm
Basically; I was going to charge & install the battery, put gas in it, change the oil, check the radiator fluids, take the truck off on its jack stands and "start-er up"
I REALLY DO ENJOY HEARING ALL YOUR THOUGHTS.
West Virginia Model AA
"Hold My Beer and Watch This..."
"Hold My Beer and Watch This..."
- spectria
- Posts: 1874
- Joined: May 15th, 2008, 9:53 pm
- Body Type: Mail Truck, Stakebed
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Quincy, Ca.
Re: Engine Oil
Get it hot, drain the oil and see what you get coming out. If it is sludge then you might want to pull the pan and clean it.wv model AA wrote:Okay guys, I'll confess.
When I bought the truck, I have no idea the status on the engine. It was in storage basically for 15 years, that was hardly ever ran by its previous owner. However; it runs good ! I put about 20 miles on it last year. When I bought the truck, it came with a 5 gallon bucket of Castrol 30 sae oil, never open.
I hate messing with 5 gallon buckets.
I have a truck show to attend 5 miles away in a couple of weeks at the Washington County Ag Center on April 5th. http://www.ruralheritagemuseum.org/events.shtm
Basically; I was going to charge & install the battery, put gas in it, change the oil, check the radiator fluids, take the truck off on its jack stands and "start-er up"
I REALLY DO ENJOY HEARING ALL YOUR THOUGHTS.
if it comes out well, looking normal, and you don't have to poke a rod in the drain hole get her flowing, you could refill with a regular oil, non-detergent, until you get that pan off and see what is in there. It could save your bearings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbqW6uHpASM
Dave in Quincy, Ca. I love Pics!!!! Post them All!!!
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
- wv model AA
- Posts: 71
- Joined: April 16th, 2013, 9:24 am
- Body Type: Dump truck
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Shepherdstown, WV
Re: Engine Oil
Thanks for the Good Advice. I will do that.
For a couple of more questions:
1) If I see any signs of sludge; I'll pull the pan, Install a new Pan Gasket. Whats the torque value for the pan bolts?
2) What weight of non-detergent oil brand should I buy from NAPA?
I live in a area right now, current temps are 45 deg. Will drive a few times in the summer in the 80 deg temp. God & Wife willing; propbably will put 20-50 miles on it this year.
As you can tell, I'm not the sharpest tool in the mechanic's box. That's why I joined this forum. You folks are great!
For a couple of more questions:
1) If I see any signs of sludge; I'll pull the pan, Install a new Pan Gasket. Whats the torque value for the pan bolts?
2) What weight of non-detergent oil brand should I buy from NAPA?
I live in a area right now, current temps are 45 deg. Will drive a few times in the summer in the 80 deg temp. God & Wife willing; propbably will put 20-50 miles on it this year.
As you can tell, I'm not the sharpest tool in the mechanic's box. That's why I joined this forum. You folks are great!
West Virginia Model AA
"Hold My Beer and Watch This..."
"Hold My Beer and Watch This..."
-
- Posts: 478
- Joined: June 3rd, 2013, 6:15 pm
- Body Type: 186-B stake
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: LHC Arizona & UP Michigan
Re: Engine Oil
Forget NAPA you already have 5 gallons of the right oil for your truck. What you need is one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Two-Qua ... 2b&vxp=mtr
They come in many sizes, 5 qt. is handiest size for complete oil change.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Two-Qua ... 2b&vxp=mtr
They come in many sizes, 5 qt. is handiest size for complete oil change.
- 1crosscut
- Posts: 877
- Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Lincoln, NE
Re: Engine Oil
Warm it up. drain the oil and refill with the 30 wt non detergent you have. After the show drop the pan and pull the valve cover off and take a good look. If sluge clean out the valve area, pull the baffle out of the pan and clean things up real good. Button things up and run a detergent multi viscosity oil.
Tighten the pan bolts using a 1/4" drive wratchet. Hold the ratchet handle closer to the head of the wrench rather towards the end of the handle. This will keep you from tightening too much. If you tighten an oil pan too much you can actually bend the metal on the pan and the leaks will never end.
Snug is all you need.
Drive it waaaaaaay more than 50 miles. I have been putting close to 1000 on mine each year. Fun stuff driving these rigs around.
Dave
Tighten the pan bolts using a 1/4" drive wratchet. Hold the ratchet handle closer to the head of the wrench rather towards the end of the handle. This will keep you from tightening too much. If you tighten an oil pan too much you can actually bend the metal on the pan and the leaks will never end.
Snug is all you need.
Drive it waaaaaaay more than 50 miles. I have been putting close to 1000 on mine each year. Fun stuff driving these rigs around.
Dave
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Dave
Dave