Truck progress photos
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Truck progress photos
Hi all,
Been working steadily on my 29 work truck.
The manual hoist is all rebuilt and mounted on the truck . My engine block was pretty worn out so decided to try machining it myself to get it back to working order . This involved line boring on my lathe for bearing inserts which was pretty nerve wracking as it only just fitted on the lathe. Then I took a skim off the top to clean off all the corrosion. Then I rebuilt an old Vulcan-Storm boring machine and bored out the cylinders for new liners, and re-bored the liners. Then machined the valve ports. All a lot of work but also good fun! No idea whether I did it all correctly but everything seemed to go together OK so fingers crossed. Only seem to be able to put 3 photos in at a time so continued on next post!
Jeff
Been working steadily on my 29 work truck.
The manual hoist is all rebuilt and mounted on the truck . My engine block was pretty worn out so decided to try machining it myself to get it back to working order . This involved line boring on my lathe for bearing inserts which was pretty nerve wracking as it only just fitted on the lathe. Then I took a skim off the top to clean off all the corrosion. Then I rebuilt an old Vulcan-Storm boring machine and bored out the cylinders for new liners, and re-bored the liners. Then machined the valve ports. All a lot of work but also good fun! No idea whether I did it all correctly but everything seemed to go together OK so fingers crossed. Only seem to be able to put 3 photos in at a time so continued on next post!
Jeff
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Truck progress photos
[attachment=0]20171231_105651e.jpg[/attachment)
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Truck progress photos
I picked up a balanced and reground crankshaft a while back so that allowed me to machine some weight off the flywheel and fit a V8 type clutch. this was all statically balanced on my modified Harbor Freight balancer.
More next post.
Jeff
I had rebuilt the 4 speed transmission last year so it was already to bolt on as I figured I would lift the engine and tranny in as one unit.More next post.
Jeff
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Truck progress photos
I originally planned a power take off on the transmission but as I wanted to use it for a winch, I decided to change it to run off the Warford auxiliary transmission so that it could run in both directions. This photo shows it fitted to the 4-speed before it was shifted.
My Warford had a bracket welded to the rear so I had to machine up a new rear casting out of a big chunk of steel to make the sliding support for cross member on the frame
I fitted a big o-ring in a groove instead of the original rope packing but had to bore out the frame casting slightly to get a good push fit. This photo shows the new piece inside the casting.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Truck progress photos
The engine and transmission are now bolted together and ready for installing.
Jeff
I have the running boards and splash aprons, front fenders and the cowl all done also ready to install. These have all been repaired but left with the original rust patina and waxed. I found a recipe online for accelerated rusting of steelwork which I have used for blending in any repair work needed on steel panels. Next installment should see the engine sitting in the frame but I just want to say a big thank you to all those that have helped on the forum here with advice and parts! Would've been a lot harder without you!Jeff
- s147881
- Posts: 425
- Joined: April 13th, 2007, 8:09 pm
- Body Type: stake bed 82A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Decatur Michigan
Re: Truck progress photos
What’s the recipe for rusting repairs? Also you said waxing? How is that done.
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- Posts: 18
- Joined: February 9th, 2018, 9:15 pm
- Body Type: Stake body
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Re: Truck progress photos
Beautiful work!
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- Posts: 32
- Joined: October 26th, 2014, 1:00 pm
- Body Type: flat deck
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Fort St. John, BC, Canada
Re: Truck progress photos
Wow. What a great job.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Re: Truck progress photos
Thanks all. The recipe for rust that I use is as follows: Steel has to be thoroughly degreased first. Then spray it with ordinary white vinegar and try and keep it wet for about 30 minutes and then leave to dry in the sun so it warms up. Mix up a solution consisting of the following in a spray bottle:
16 oz hydrogen peroxide
2 oz white vinegar
1/2tablespoon of salt.
Now spray all over until completely wet and then let it dry. Keep repeating the spray cycle and the rust will get thicker and darker. I usually leave the piece where I walk past it frequently and give it a spray each time I pass. If you can keep it warm, then the reaction is faster. Once you have got it the right color, just leave it for a couple of weeks so the rust hardens. It is a bit trial and error and different pieces can vary but this is the basic method.
For the rust patina, I am indebted to Dave Allder who pioneered this . The wax is Johnsons Paste Wax which comes in a yellow tin and is available from Walmart or Amazon. Once the rust is thoroughly wire brushed and washed off and dry, I leave the pieces in the sun to warm up. Then rub or brush the paste wax into the steel all over and let the surface dry. Then give it a second, third or fourth coat until it stops soaking in. I suspect if it is warm enough that the wax soaks right in down to the steel underneath. I then let it cool - usually the next morning and then buff it hard with a dry cloth to bring up a satin sheen on the surface. Jeff
16 oz hydrogen peroxide
2 oz white vinegar
1/2tablespoon of salt.
Now spray all over until completely wet and then let it dry. Keep repeating the spray cycle and the rust will get thicker and darker. I usually leave the piece where I walk past it frequently and give it a spray each time I pass. If you can keep it warm, then the reaction is faster. Once you have got it the right color, just leave it for a couple of weeks so the rust hardens. It is a bit trial and error and different pieces can vary but this is the basic method.
For the rust patina, I am indebted to Dave Allder who pioneered this . The wax is Johnsons Paste Wax which comes in a yellow tin and is available from Walmart or Amazon. Once the rust is thoroughly wire brushed and washed off and dry, I leave the pieces in the sun to warm up. Then rub or brush the paste wax into the steel all over and let the surface dry. Then give it a second, third or fourth coat until it stops soaking in. I suspect if it is warm enough that the wax soaks right in down to the steel underneath. I then let it cool - usually the next morning and then buff it hard with a dry cloth to bring up a satin sheen on the surface. Jeff
- s147881
- Posts: 425
- Joined: April 13th, 2007, 8:09 pm
- Body Type: stake bed 82A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Decatur Michigan
Re: Truck progress photos
Wow that rust wax job looks great. I hope to be ready to do mine by summer.
- 1crosscut
- Posts: 877
- Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Lincoln, NE
Re: Truck progress photos
Jeff - that is really looking nice. I am not at all surprised though. Especially after seeing the pictures of what you did on your Stanley Steamer. Your a true craftsman.
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Dave
Dave
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- Posts: 18
- Joined: March 27th, 2017, 9:44 pm
- Body Type: 82A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: St Stephen Minnesota
Re: Truck progress photos
I too give Dave Alder credit for that wax tip. I'm doing a 29 barn find and that waxed patina is beautiful. I've also got 28 spokes on mine and what a pain that was. Two hours per wheel! I waxed the rust and what was left of any paint on the body and it all looks great! Good luck with yours. Should be driving it soon. Frank J
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Re: Truck progress photos
Hi all,
I was shocked to see that it was February when I last posted some photos of my work truck. Time has moved on and the engine and transmissions are now installed, PTO driven winch is finished on the front and this weekend, I managed to get the front fenders and running boards installed so it starting to look like a truck again. The Warford auxiliary transmission hooked in pretty well, better than I expected and I did not have to make any modifications to the brake shaft. You can see the chain drive off the PTO to the drive shaft to the front of the truck in the bottom left - this drives the winch. The winch is a converted Beebe hand winch which is driven through bevel gears and a second chain drive. It was a 2 ton winch although these are really solid and I suspect it would now do a lot more The lever right of the winch engages and disengages the PTO. The fairlead is a modern one - $25 off Ebay which is less than I was going to buy the steel for. I disassembled it and applied rust solution to make it look more in keeping. The toolbox on the left is for shackles and chains etc and was made from parts from a rusted out cowl - hence the funky shape! Bearings , chain and universal joints were all from the Surplus Center.
Next job is to get the cab floor ready, the cowl and fuel tank are all done ready to install. Also coming up is some tool boxes for the running boards made out of some old barn wood.
Jeff
I was shocked to see that it was February when I last posted some photos of my work truck. Time has moved on and the engine and transmissions are now installed, PTO driven winch is finished on the front and this weekend, I managed to get the front fenders and running boards installed so it starting to look like a truck again. The Warford auxiliary transmission hooked in pretty well, better than I expected and I did not have to make any modifications to the brake shaft. You can see the chain drive off the PTO to the drive shaft to the front of the truck in the bottom left - this drives the winch. The winch is a converted Beebe hand winch which is driven through bevel gears and a second chain drive. It was a 2 ton winch although these are really solid and I suspect it would now do a lot more The lever right of the winch engages and disengages the PTO. The fairlead is a modern one - $25 off Ebay which is less than I was going to buy the steel for. I disassembled it and applied rust solution to make it look more in keeping. The toolbox on the left is for shackles and chains etc and was made from parts from a rusted out cowl - hence the funky shape! Bearings , chain and universal joints were all from the Surplus Center.
Next job is to get the cab floor ready, the cowl and fuel tank are all done ready to install. Also coming up is some tool boxes for the running boards made out of some old barn wood.
Jeff
- AAholic
- Posts: 281
- Joined: October 27th, 2010, 7:24 pm
- Body Type: 82-B
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: N.E.Illinois
Re: Truck progress photos
Your truck is looking awesome, thanks for sharing