I want to spin my engine over with the Starter

[Hardhatz]

Boy, you did a great job cleaning in up the cylinders!
For sloshing out gunk & freeing rings, I use Dextron. Very high in detergent.

[REM]

The tube from the block to the valve cover is a return pipe that allows the excess oil pumped up to the valve chamber to return to the pan.
The oil pump pumps the oil up at the oil pump shaft. The oil in the valve chamber runs down to the mains through passages in the block to oil the mains. Be sure these are not plugged up and put some oil in them before you button it all back up to insure oil to the mains on start up.
An oil return pipe should be easy to find. Be aware that there were two different lengths of them.

Looking good. Have fun.
Richard

[Brady]

It's looking good Dave...
Some thoughts: What was the source of the water? Have you also checked the transmissions for water? The plug in the block at the oil pump looks to be a bolt- if so, then the threads may be shot. It's supposed to be a 1/8" pipe thread. This would be a good time to further inspect and clean areas such as the pan, valve chamber, water jackets in the head and block, condition of the bearing surfaces at the rods and crank, end play of the crank, inspect the cam gear teeth and plunger spring, and a general over view of all.
I know you're anxious to hear it run, but that could cause you more problems if done a little too early. You're off to a good start, and we all wish you the greatest succes-

[spectria]

Regarding the oil drain back pipe;

How do I know which one I need?

Is the oil that seemed to surge out of the Block opening only because of the rods slooshing it out, or is there pressure there?

How do some add an oil filter?

[spectria]

It's looking good Dave...
The plug in the block at the oil pump looks to be a bolt- if so, then the threads may be shot. It's supposed to be a 1/8" pipe thread.

So the threaded hole at the Oil Pump is 1/8" for a fitting such as a gauge or oil line to a filter?

[Jared275]

I don't know the original purpose but yes you could run an oil pressure gage off of that port

[Brian T]

Hello Dave,
There are 2 different length oil return pipes , there doesn’t seem to be an easy way to tell which one fits what valve cover, I assume it was missing?, and do not remove that bolt in the block . (At least for the time being), it maybe the only thing that is holding the oil pump in, there is a spring in the oil pan which normally holds the pump up in the block, maybe missing.
Just my opinion Dave I would put the head back on , clean the carb, check the points , make a small fuel tank from something , grab a battery and start the old lady up.
This way you can find out other issues , is the clutch stuck, does the trans work, does it drive the truck forward , best to find out before spending a lot of time on the engine, heck let it knock , smoke or what ever .
The first time I started mine it was music to my ears, not only that the cold weather is coming up so you could stand around a hot running engine with your favorite bevy and a friend or two and brag about how good the truck will be when done, may stop you from getting down in the dumps about the rest of the work to be done,LOL, just my 2 cents.
Brian T.

[Jared275]

I agree with Brian, fire it off and hear her purr.

[spectria]

Thanks Brian, for the info. Yes, the pipe is/was missing.

I wasn't ready to take out the bolt yet, and I surely didn't know that it might be the only thing holding the oil pump in place.

Can I confirm the oil pump "support" spring by looking in the drain hole?

I noticed while attempting to drain the Water, err, I mean oil, out of the engine, that I needed to blow air up into the drain hole. I got water, and then oil. I also noticed that there was something right there inside the drain hole. I couldn't make out what it was, but it was right down around the circumference of the opening, and it did have a way for the oil and water to get out past it.

Could this be a spring? or just the bottom of the Oil Pump?

[spectria]

I agree with Brian, fire it off and hear her purr.

Thanks Jared, I plan on it.

My luck has been good so far, knock on my head...

[spectria]

Boy, you did a great job cleaning in up the cylinders!
For sloshing out gunk & freeing rings, I use Dextron. Very high in detergent.

Another one of those great tricks I forgot Mr. Crawford taught me In High School Auto Shop.

His other trick was to let an engine idle while slowly pouring a quart of crude oil (you could get that back then) down the carb and just as the engine coughs and dies, dump the rest in. Leave to soak for a couple days, then pull plugs and slowly rotate engine until clear of crude...

Never tried that (there is a grave danger of Hydraulic LOCK and exploding a piston or 3...) but I did pour Dexron into the bores of the AA and I was able to rotate the engine back and forth with little effort...

I left it to soak while I continued to hand sandpaper the block surface where I couldn't get with the 3m fibre discs on my die grinder...

It rained all day Sunday, so I didn't go out into the shop (my tarp lean-to) where my tail would get wet.

Studied up on the A carbs... got to clean mine up well enought to at least start the thing...

[Jared275]

I think I will try this oil trick on one of my spare engines, interested on seeing this in action.

[Chris Haynes]

I had a engine in a 1941 Ford that was stuck from sitting since 1958. I removed the plugs, poured in some Coca Cola. The next day I put it in gear and rocked it back and forth. The crank didn't move. I continued this for 4 days and on the 5th day the crank had moved a bit. I flushed the cylinders first with some diesel and secondly with gasoline. I then sprayed in some Kroil and let it set overnite. It then was able to crank over with the starter. I put everything back together the next day. I had rebuilt carb, fuel pump, distributor, wiring and of course plugs.. Put some fuel in a can with a hose to the carb and hit the starter. If fired off. Smoked like a bitch for a while. It idled fine. I put the car on the road and all was well for a few days of around town driving. Sadly after a few days a rod bearing gave up. I found the all the bearings were eaten up by the acid that was in the oil during its 40 years of sitting.

[rollingsculpture]

yup a good reason to pull the oil pan service the pump and inspect the bearing babbet i discovered quite the sludge and a few bits of metal in the bottom of the pan when i took it off and could then get the visual on the bottoms of the pistons , the crankshaft the main bearings and the cam . all of these points were good to look at learn about and measure for wear . also if you havent taken the head off or the valve cover you may want to inspect your valves and the valve springs . i just removed all the springs on mine and discovered stuck valves and a broken spring right at the top of the spring where it couldnt be seen . the new springs were noticably stronger when compressing them to put them in so im sure the old ones had seen stronger days . take a tour and see what you really own it will give you a great feeling to know its ok before you turn the key. that way if something doesnt go quite right you wont have to guess you will know how things are in that box of whirling metal.

[Shorthaul]

I agree with Brian, fire it off and hear her purr.

Uh-huh-------Be ready to shut her down if she starts growling/barking....Let us know and good luck!