HAHA part of the club now.

[scl009]

I ended up driving 23 hours overall to get her, but I feel like she was worth it. The chassis is in great shape, better than I thought it would be. When pushing it the end of the drive shaft came up and grabbed the rear brake lines and boy did we fall flat on our faces when the rear brakes kicked in.

I think I'm going to need a little more direction in finding the chassis number. One of the pictures I posted on photobucket shows where I took a wire brush to the paint looking for it (its the last pic).

http://s695.photobucket.com/albums/vv31 ... =slideshow


I didn't realize how huge the chassis would be. I think I'm gonna call it "the beast," but haven't quite decided yet. The end of the frame worries me a bit doesn't really look like an AA to me.

Scott

[spectria]

Check out this inhancement I did using ACDC Pro.

I make out 2 4's in the area on top of the frame in the cropped image

Serial Number Location IMG_0204 modified cropped.jpg (77.33 KiB) Viewed 7222 times

[Bob C]

Scott,
Could you post some pictures of the coupling shaft(the shaft that goes between the transmission and the rear end) and where it connects to the rear end. I have an open coupling shaft but I don't know what they used for a seal.

Thanks Bob

[scl009]

Scott,
Could you post some pictures of the coupling shaft(the shaft that goes between the transmission and the rear end) and where it connects to the rear end. I have an open coupling shaft but I don't know what they used for a seal.

Thanks Bob

as requested let me know if you want any close ups

http://s695.photobucket.com/albums/vv318/scl009/

[scl009]

Check out this inhancement I did using ACDC Pro.

I make out 2 4's in the area on top of the frame in the cropped image

Serial Number Location IMG_0204 modified cropped.jpg

I think your eyes are better than mine, I do possibly see some 2's, but then I go out and look at the frame and can't see anything.

I'll get it figured out, thanks for the help, thats a nifty little program.


Scott

[REM]

I would look a little more forward on the frame. Often they are right behind the motor mount bracket and pretty close to the outside edge of the frame.

[Robert Gray]

I see from the pics you have the original style exhaust pipe clamps...care to sell?

[Drew Mashburn]

Scott:

With those style wheels, I'd venture a guess that your AA is a '31. The end of the frame is correct. Nice buy! You've got a great start.

Bob, you say you have an open coupling-shaft. Often times, the thin metal housings would rust to the point they fell off or partially fell off and became annoying to hear rubbing against moving parts, so they were removed. Looks that way on Scott's truck.

-- Drew

[Bob C]

Drew,
The open coupling shaft I have is totally different than the closed shaft. It has Mechanics 4C wing bearing u-joints and a hollow tube drive shaft. Look at the second picture Scott posted of the drive line. The front u-joint is not a AA, it has needle bearings like the later trucks, looks strange, need a better close up picture of the u-joint.

Bob

[Drew Mashburn]

Bob:

I reviewed the photos more carefully. You're absolutely correct. I'd say the coupling shaft is an aftermarket product. But, why would there be a need for an open shaft like this? Just easier to replace U-joints?

-- Drew

[scl009]

I added two pictures of the U joint (one named u joint and the other u bolt, don't know why)
So if its the wrong U joint, are you saying that its not a model AA? What else should I be doing to identify the chassis?

http://s695.photobucket.com/albums/vv318/scl009/

I also added a pic of whats left of the serial/chassis and was wondering if spectria could use the ACDC Pro again.

Thanks

[rollingsculpture]

scott take some bright red or blue chalk and go over your number area than wipe off the surface which should leave some chalk in the depressions than photograph with a high resolution setting on your camera .

[Bob C]

I think what somebody did was take the original gear that bolts to the trans output shaft and welded it to a u-joint
and then cut the coupling shaft and welded that to the other end of the u-joint. Looks like you will need a complete
new coupling shaft.

[spectria]

scott take some bright red or blue chalk and go over your number area than wipe off the surface which should leave some chalk in the depressions than photograph with a high resolution setting on your camera .

Yes, I agree.
I have used white out, then wiped the surface which leaves a little in the depressions.

I need more resolution to discern anything more.

You are looking in the right area.

The only thing more you could do is Glass bead lightly the area, not sand blast, and then try raising it with muriatic acid.

A Hi Rez pic would help.

Frankly, i see nothing in the latest pic, even with tons of contrast, color changing and light level adjustments.

More straight down is also better, there is a slight angle in your photo.

Glad to look more, just post a pic.

[Bob C]

Scott, I looked at my 157" frame and the number is farther back on it than you are looking.
mine is directly in line with the bracket with the two holes in it for mounting the cab and close to the inner edge of the frame rail.

Bob