Matt, a pic question

[russ]

I refer to your great pics often to refresh my memory on what went where. They are much appreciated. Lookin' at those pics always makes me feel like such a slacker though.

Referencing your following pic...

http://www.smokypond.com/gallery/pictur ... ewsIndex=1

...it appears your torque tube flange hadn't yet been final assembled to your pinion flange. It appears there is about a 1/2" gap twixt the two flanges.
Do you recall what was in that gap when you dis-assembled, and when you re-assembled?
One paper gasket? One paper gasket and a thick steel shim? Some other combination?
It might help me figure out what it is that i'm tryin' to do here.

[Matt Kroll]

Russ,

First, what looks like a 1/2" gap in the picture is actually the flange of the pinion bearing sleeve. It's just a blacker shade of black. I cheated by just painting the edge of it black, rather than powder coating it. The camera accentuates the difference. Looks much closer in real-life!

Here is the order from left to right, as shown in the picture, including all 3 flanges (mine matched what is shown on page 412 of the service bulletins):

1. Torque tube flange
2. Pinion Bearing Sleeve Gasket (leather 'O' ring I believe)
3. Pinion Bearing Sleeve Flange
4. Shim
5. Differential Housing Flange

There was no paper gasket used on mine.

Matt

[Drew Mashburn]

Russ:

I saw your Oct. 1st post ("Dang, extra parts"). I disassembled my early 1931 truck years ago and have yet to get it back together. When I disassembled it, I made some drawings and notes. My drawings and notes differ from the way Matt has described the way his parts are assembled.

From my notes:
1. Torque tube flange.
2. Pinion bearing flange.
3. Thin shim.
4. Thick shim.
5. Differential housing flange.

I sure hope some other guys let us know in what order their's came apart.

-- Drew

[Matt Kroll]

Russ,

I should have mentioned that you should put back whatever combination of shims that were originally used with your axle. The shims set the gear tooth contact patch and backlash. They were selected at the factory during assembly. Some used one thick shim, others used a thick and thin shim, while later axles used 1 or 2 thin shims.

Warning: Backlash alone does not tell the whole story Unless you're prepared to check gear contact patch, use the original shims.

Matt

[russ]

Hey Matt, i appreciate you're double checkin' my assembly here. I'm countin' on you'all to help me finish this beast, and i am indeed sneakin' up on a complete truck. Many thanks to all thus far.

I did put the pinion to diff shim back as i found it. Other than subtracting any thin steel shims twixt the pinion flange and the diff flange to compensate for wear, i wouldn't even think about messing with the way the Ford Boys set it up. I didn't actually subtract any shims but if i was going to mess with something, that's about all i'd really want to do myself.

I found this particular diff to have no measurable wear inside at ring and pinion, nor at the inner axle bearings and races. The spider was shiny and clean too. Even the machined and polished ends of the axle housings out by the brake drums were still looking shiny and new.

I only opened up this rear end with much apprehension, because one of the axles had a torn up keyway. Someone had put the smaller of the two keys available into the wide slot my axles have. It chewed the keyway up really well.

Back with more nutty questions soon.

[SHELBY MESSER]

Russ, Bad you key way in your axle is damaged Rather than replacing it you may want to bring it to a local machine shop to get it repaired since you have it apart. That way all the gears will match! (check prices)!Good Luck! Shelby, Louisiana.

[russ]

Thanks Shelby, but the rear end is back together and back under the frame already. I had some good replacement axles laying around to pick from.

I've enlisted the help of machinists for a number of repairs so far, but only if there isn't an easily found replacement laying around in or near my state for cheap.

best, russ