Chassis and frame coating ?s

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
scl009
Posts: 194
Joined: August 22nd, 2009, 10:02 am
Model Year: 1931
Location: New Orleans, LA

Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by scl009 »

What is everyones experience with coating/painting there chassis?

I was considering "rust bullet" "Por15" etc.
Don't think I want to get it powder coated, but we'll see.

Wanting to know method of painting (paintbrush, HVLP, spray gun etc) and how you like your results.
Pics would be awesome too!!!

Scott
New Orleans, LA
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miner art
Posts: 295
Joined: March 22nd, 2005, 8:27 am
Body Type: AA flt.BD.82a
Model Year: 1929
Location: gold hill oregon,97525

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by miner art »

Howdy!,por15 worked for me, after sandblasting,shoot it with hvlp,anything exposed to sun might want to be primed with the 15 primer and solvent!!!
Have FUN!,art
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HKDude
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Joined: January 17th, 2003, 7:46 pm
Body Type: Platform
Model Year: 1929
Location: Decatur, Illinois

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by HKDude »

Hi Scott,

From the pictures I've seen, I think it really is a matter of preference. I've seen great results with either option. I personally went with powder coating.

The first picture shows the frame shortly after it was the powder coated. The detail isn't the greatest... The second one shows a little more detail. Everything you see there has been powder coated except the springs which I painted by hand with Rustoleum.

-mike
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scl009
Posts: 194
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Model Year: 1931
Location: New Orleans, LA

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by scl009 »

I haven't really looked into powder coating because I didn't think I could do a good job with it at home, and everyone seems to make a big deal about the cost of getting it done.

I think I might need to step back a bit. My frame is pretty corroded in some places making me think that I shouldn't use powder coat, but then I kind of contradict myself. I want to know the method of application of paint products to see how the finishes turn out, but if the frame is pitted in large areas it won't really matter what method I'm gonna use (paintbrush, HVLP etc) because the finish is gonna be kind of bad anyway.?!


Scott
scl009
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Joined: August 22nd, 2009, 10:02 am
Model Year: 1931
Location: New Orleans, LA

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by scl009 »

Thanks for the pics and advice

Mike reminded me that I need to start working on clearing out a space in my garage for this monster.

Scott
Hardhatz
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Joined: May 17th, 2009, 10:13 pm
Body Type: Dump
Model Year: 1931

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by Hardhatz »

You will LOVE Rust Bullet. Do NOT get it on anything you do not want painted. This includes hands, and your best dog.
There are some tricks to know about it, if you decide on it I'm happy to offer my experience.
Bob C
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Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
Location: SO CAL

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by Bob C »

Scott
If you have a lot of pitting I would have it sand blasted and then you can putty up the
bad spots and put on some sanding primer and block sand it to look like new.
modeleh
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Joined: July 27th, 2006, 4:49 pm
Model Year: 1930
Location: Nanaimo, BC

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by modeleh »

Powdercoat does look nice, maybe too nice and appear over restored? The one thing I don't like about it is if you powdercoat an assembly and have to take it apart, once you put a wrench on the bolts, you'll chip and crack the coating, or assembly of powdercoated pieces you can have chips, etc. If you brush paint your chassis and ever have to do any work to anything, you can just touch up the wrench damaged areas easily again with a brush. Lots of guys just use rustoleum and there is nothing wrong with that at all. If you talk to anyone in the autobody business, they are not big fans of the "miracle paints" rust paints of all different brands that claim to do this and that. What they will tell you is for the best results use something that is catalyzed. These are known as "2K" products. It really does make sense. How good does your bondo setup without a catalyst? Personally, I feel that the paints that require a catalyst are alot tougher than those being air-dried, or as POR15 claims, hardens with moisture. A rust prevention that likes moisture?
Check out your local house paint supplier, my local one stocks industrial and marine coatings and I found a good deal on a gallon of industrial 2 part black epoxy that I just brushed on.
SHELBY MESSER
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Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
Body Type: 75-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Sacramento, Ca.

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by SHELBY MESSER »

Lab metal is good to fill pits after sand blasting. They also have high-temp lab metal to use under powder coat! Also if you use POR15 be careful as with any paint. Avoid spraying, the vapor are very harmful to you. Getting POR15 on your hands is no big deal, wash your hand with a solvent that break it down. But still no big deal. Your wife may have something to take it off you, or you can get it from someone local. AVON'S "SKIN SO SOFT" will take POR15 off after it's dried like it is butter. I've posted this but never heard any comments! Good luck! Shelby, Louisiana.
scl009
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Model Year: 1931
Location: New Orleans, LA

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by scl009 »

[quote="SHELBY MESSER"]Lab metal is good to fill pits after sand blasting. {/quote]

What is Lab metal? Like old school ledding?



I love how we get so many different opinions/experiences. It shows what can happen and you seem to get a broader idea of the positives and negatives of a procedure/technique. Thanks guys.

Scott
SHELBY MESSER
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Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by SHELBY MESSER »

Scott, Best thing to do is look it up on the enter net. type in Lab metal. They can explain it better than me! Keep on truckin! Shelby, Louisiana.
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mikeg
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Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by mikeg »

I just received POR-15's latest catalog. WOW! They have really expanded their product line and I think I saw a filler product they guarantee to be compatible with their products.

POR-15 Website
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Chris Haynes
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Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by Chris Haynes »

HKDude wrote:Hi Scott,

From the pictures I've seen, I think it really is a matter of preference. I've seen great results with either option. I personally went with powder coating.

The first picture shows the frame shortly after it was the powder coated. The detail isn't the greatest... The second one shows a little more detail. Everything you see there has been powder coated except the springs which I painted by hand with Rustoleum.

-mike
All of that pretty plated hardware was painted block on an original.
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HKDude
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Model Year: 1929
Location: Decatur, Illinois

Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by HKDude »

Chris,

That's true but there were a couple of other factors that went into my decision:

First, I live in a bi-level home with my garage directly under the bedrooms. The paint fumes tend to invade the bedroom. Read, wife NOT happy. That means I have to take most of the major stuff out to be painted since I want to stay married.

Secondly, I find the powder coating to be pretty reasonably priced. I'm sure that doesn't have anything to do with the fact his son works for me. :D

Finally, I like the finish. It looks nice and is supposesd to be more durable than paint but I won't be able to confirm that until I get it on the road.

-mike
SHELBY MESSER
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Re: Chassis and frame coating ?s

Post by SHELBY MESSER »

I think that the lab metal is better for a pit filler it has alum. bits making it a metal. It is one part only, No mixing, just the reducer to thin to apply with brush or putty knife. Not like old school lead. POR-15 is very good also! Painter choice! Shelby, Louisiana.
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