Hydraulic Conversion

[av8]

What about swapping the rear axle for a 1942 ford truck with hydraulic brakes? Same wheels I think check out UK e-bay there's one on sale there now

[spectria]

What about swapping the rear axle for a 1942 ford truck with hydraulic brakes? Same wheels I think check out UK e-bay there's one on sale there now

Can you post a pic and measurements for between backing plates, spring perches, and axle flange to axle flange, Please?

I wouldn't mind a change if it looked very similar, but I would only do it on my very rough '31, not the 1930 82b 185a platform...

[scl009]

I want to stay more stock than that I think, I'd like to keep the same backing plates and all just try to figure out a way to add cylinders, or at least keep the same drum. Today I found some F5 drums and they just don't look like the AA drums.

[spectria]

I want to stay more stock than that I think, I'd like to keep the same backing plates and all just try to figure out a way to add cylinders, or at least keep the same drum. Today I found some F5 drums and they just don't look like the AA drums.

Does anyone know if the Banjo Rear Axle has a similar clone with a different ratio?

[Bob C]

Somebody posted a picture of AA backing plates quite awhile back
but there was no other information about the setup.

Bob

[njcar757]

Hi guys. I own a 29 AA , I haven't started the restoration process yet. I have measured the bolt pattern with calipers and I'm sure its 5 on 6 7/8 circle. I also have a 30 AA, the rims are different but the bolt pattern is the same. I've done alot of thinking on brakes. Recently on the Fordbarn site, one model A owner put the new brake energizer kit on his model A and it has pressed steel drums and woven lining, he said the improvement is like hydraulic brakes. I've been to Flathead Teds website, the kit he sells converts all 4 wheels on the AA trucks. The cost is $260.00 plus $30.00 shipping. I think that the way I'll go.This is a real good topic and I hope it will continue on.
Carry on nick.

[scl009]

Last time I measured my 31 AA lug bolt pattern I beleive it was a 5 x 8. Maybe I'll have to borrow some calipers and actually remove the lug nuts and see...

[rollingsculpture]

i know its for model a cars but there is some great info here and some insight as to how it is done

http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber ... Brakes.htm

[spectria]

i know its for model a cars but there is some great info here and some insight as to how it is done

http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber ... Brakes.htm

Thanks For the Info...
Lots of Options...

[scl009]

Can anybody post a pic of the backing plates with measurements?

Thanks
Scott

[Chris Haynes]

What about swapping the rear axle for a 1942 ford truck with hydraulic brakes? Same wheels I think check out UK e-bay there's one on sale there now

Bolt pattern changed in '34.

[scl009]

sorry to bump

I've been breaking down my front end the help of some good guys here on the forum.

I'm looking at these kingpins and wondering about the housing on top for the mechanical breaks (red arrow)

axletowheel.jpg (75.37 KiB) Viewed 5783 times

Thinking about finding a hydraulic cylinder to fit in the place of the housing. In other words cutting it off, welding up a plate too the kingpin and bolting the cylinder directly on top of kingpin to push down on the rod that moves the brake mechanism on the backing plate. Seems like this might be a good route as it would only be one modification without changing too many parts. The problem is finding a small enough cylinder (less than 2 inches) soo that it will still fit in the backing plate recess. I measured that I will need 3/8 stroke.

Pros/cons/suggestions?
How much force do I need to push out for it to be better than the full mechanical setup?

Scott

[spectria]

sorry to bump

I've been breaking down my front end the help of some good guys here on the forum.

I'm looking at these kingpins and wondering about the housing on top for the mechanical breaks (red arrow)

axletowheel.jpg

Thinking about finding a hydraulic cylinder to fit in the place of the housing. In other words cutting it off, welding up a plate too the kingpin and bolting the cylinder directly on top of kingpin to push down on the rod that moves the brake mechanism on the backing plate. Seems like this might be a good route as it would only be one modification without changing too many parts. The problem is finding a small enough cylinder (less than 2 inches) so that it will still fit in the backing plate recess. I measured that I will need 3/8 stroke.
Pros/cons/suggestions?
How much force do I need to push out for it to be better than the full mechanical setup?
Scott

Keep On Bumping, this is an ongoing thread...
I like your idea, Bet you could calculate the amount of force required, based on the multipliers, Length from pedal head to pivot, then the pivot lengths at the cross-members, then the lengths of the links at the wheels. Or you could possibly get a force gauge or just a linear scale and put in line on one front link, and apply the brakes.

I'm guessing 800 foot/lbs at the brake shoes, from a long lost memory of my ASE Master Cert test For the brake section... Its probably in a book somewhere....

[scl009]

Bet you could calculate the amount of force required, based on the multipliers, Length from pedal head to pivot, then the pivot lengths at the cross-members, then the lengths of the links at the wheels. Or you could possibly get a force gauge or just a linear scale and put in line on one front link, and apply the brakes.

I'll take that bet, as I haven't had the entire brake system from pedal to shoe since day 1

I have all the drums and everything up until the second crossmember I beleive, but everything has also been stripped forom the chassis.

[scl009]

Somebody posted a picture of AA backing plates quite awhile back
but there was no other information about the setup.

Bob

Correct me if I'm wrong.
Doesn't this pic look like they cut off about a 2 inch section of each shoe where the mechanical actuator used to be (at the top)?
And aren't these plates upside down in the picture (as in the part at the top where they removed the actuator and placed the cylinder was originally installed towards the bottom?