Drilling Frame Flanges

[TomH]

Does anyone have any thoughts on drilling holes in the frame flanges of my 32 AAB? I know later heavy truck frames have stickers that say "High tensile steel, do not weld or drill frame flanges"
Thanks
Tom H.

[steve s.]

Tom, It is always best to avoid drilling frame flanges if possible. Modern truck frame flanges are heat treated , but even older truck manuals discourage drilling flanges. There are many other ways to mount things with brackets, u bolts, and the like. Steve

[spectria]

Tom, It is always best to avoid drilling frame flanges if possible. Modern truck frame flanges are heat treated , but even older truck manuals discourage drilling flanges. There are many other ways to mount things with brackets, u bolts, and the like. Steve

OK, I feel like an idiot, but what do you mean by "Frame Flange"?

Are you speaking of the top and bottom of frame rails? or the Brackets that attach the body?

Help?

[TomH]

Thanks Steve, but its too late. Dave you are not an idiot, the flanges are the horizontal top and bottom of the frame. We drilled 4 3/8in. holes to mount a fuel cell. I thought of some of the modifications I have seen done to these old trucks and thought there must be quite a few with holes drilled in the flanges, and hoped for the best. By the way Dave the VIN on our 32 AAB? starts AAB 50.
Tom H

[njcar757]

Hi Tom. Can you tell us how do you put gas in the tank? Is the gas gauge about 2" in diameter like other gauges? I had the same idea except I'll make mine out of 16 ga steel, if so where can I buy the sending unit and gauge?
thanks nick

[TomH]

Hi Tom. Can you tell us how do you put gas in the tank? Is the gas gauge about 2" in diameter like other gauges? I had the same idea except I'll make mine out of 16 ga steel, if so where can I buy the sending unit and gauge?
thanks nick

Nick, the stock fuel tank on a 32 is mounted below the seat and has a sending unit that pushes gas into a tube that goes to the gauge. I bought the 8 gallon fuel cell, and mounting straps from Summit Racing. The cell is filled with foam to eliminate fuel sloshing. They do have a sending unit and gauge which I didn't get, but I don't know if if it would work with the stock gauge. The red cap in the top middle is the filler. The red wire is a ground.
Tom H.

[Brady]

Tom H:
That's a very neat looking installation. I'm wondering about what you use for a fuel pump, if your's is a BB with a B carb or an A Zenith. Do you have to use a fuel pressure regulator. Again, -very nice work- best of luck, FB

[steve s.]

Tom, It looks as though you won't be hauling much of a load anyway, but if you should ever remove your fuel cell, you might want to weld those holes back up. I'm sure you have not done any harm to your truck. Steve

[Chris Haynes]

NEVER EVER WELD ON A FRAME FLANGE!

[spectria]

NEVER EVER WELD ON A FRAME FLANGE!

Hey Chris,
I understand the concern, but I have been repairing and welding on frames forever, and never had a failure.

Maybe you could explain, is it because the steel will be softened near the weld, and warpage and bending will occur, or something else?

I'm ready to heed your warning, but I gotta know the details...

[TomH]

Tom H:
That's a very neat looking installation. I'm wondering about what you use for a fuel pump, if your's is a BB with a B carb or an A Zenith. Do you have to use a fuel pressure regulator. Again, -very nice work- best of luck, FB

Brady, Its almost impossible to find info on this truck. I THINK it is an AAB, an early 32. The engine is different from an AA, but it is not the counterbalenced unit that came out later in the year, with the BB trucks. But it does have a fuel pump, so I didn't need a regulator or electric pump. The carb is cast iron Zenith.

I have to agree with Chris, that when I put the bed back on I will leave the holes as they are.

Tom

[rollingsculpture]

NEVER EVER WELD ON A FRAME FLANGE!

Hey Chris,
I understand the concern, but I have been repairing and welding on frames forever, and never had a failure.

Maybe you could explain, is it because the steel will be softened near the weld, and warpage and bending will occur, or something else?

I'm ready to heed your warning, but I gotta know the details...

well whats the scoop on the dire warning ? i have lots of welded on extras i need to take off and some torched out holes to fill , im ready to have at it with the mig so...........?

[spectria]

NEVER EVER WELD ON A FRAME FLANGE!

Hey Chris,
I understand the concern, but I have been repairing and welding on frames forever, and never had a failure.

Maybe you could explain, is it because the steel will be softened near the weld, and warpage and bending will occur, or something else?

I'm ready to heed your warning, but I gotta know the details...

well whats the scoop on the dire warning ? i have lots of welded on extras i need to take off and some torched out holes to fill , I'm ready to have at it with the MiG so...........?

The Rock Crawlers, 4 x 4's and dune buggy's I have built or repaired have had every kind of frame from stainless, chrome moly and pressed factory frames, all of which took welds with no problems.

I have spliced entire sections together end to end, face to face, and NEVER had a failure. BUT, the fact is, that the area next to a weld is where a break will occur, and brittle steel (like old long rusted and aged brittle metal) will be subject to warpage, flexing and cracking right next to the welds.

I suggest reinforcement if you are concerned about flexing or failure, but that always goes against the "Restorers" way.

Plugging holes with welds is fine, just wrap a soaking wet rag around the hole (and mean soaking) like a donut, and weld up the holes (don't let water get in the weld, obviously!). This lessens the distance that might be softened by keeping the surrounding area cooler.

If you are welding vertically, it's more of a challenge.

PS. I have a sheet of 1/2" thick asbestos welding sheet that I clamp behind hole to weld up without allot of drippage.