Rear end for 1931 AA
- dyoungs
- Posts: 158
- Joined: November 12th, 2003, 5:28 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Vestal, New York
Rear end for 1931 AA
Hello,
I am getting ready to start to take the rear wheels of and work on the brakes of my 1931 AA. My question is there is a small weap hole on the bottom of the back dust plate and I get oil that drips from the hole. It is not much but it still comes out after every time that I drive it. I have taken the fill plug off of the pumpkin and made sure that the level is not above the fill plug. Do I need to drain more oil out or are there bushings, gaskets or something that needs to be replaced on the actual tube that goes out o the back plate. I am going to put new brake shoes on and do not want them to get soaked with the oil. Thanks...Most of the drip is coming out of the driver side but still get a little bit out of the passenger side as well....
I am getting ready to start to take the rear wheels of and work on the brakes of my 1931 AA. My question is there is a small weap hole on the bottom of the back dust plate and I get oil that drips from the hole. It is not much but it still comes out after every time that I drive it. I have taken the fill plug off of the pumpkin and made sure that the level is not above the fill plug. Do I need to drain more oil out or are there bushings, gaskets or something that needs to be replaced on the actual tube that goes out o the back plate. I am going to put new brake shoes on and do not want them to get soaked with the oil. Thanks...Most of the drip is coming out of the driver side but still get a little bit out of the passenger side as well....
- mikeg
- Site Admin
- Posts: 179
- Joined: January 15th, 2003, 4:08 pm
- Body Type: 150B
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: San Juan Islands, Washington
- Contact:
Re: Rear end for 1931 AA
There is a oil seal that goes on the end of the axle tube. Attached is a picture of the rear axle with drum removed. I circled the oil seal in the picture.
dyoungs wrote:Hello,
I am getting ready to start to take the rear wheels of and work on the brakes of my 1931 AA. My question is there is a small weap hole on the bottom of the back dust plate and I get oil that drips from the hole. It is not much but it still comes out after every time that I drive it. I have taken the fill plug off of the pumpkin and made sure that the level is not above the fill plug. Do I need to drain more oil out or are there bushings, gaskets or something that needs to be replaced on the actual tube that goes out o the back plate. I am going to put new brake shoes on and do not want them to get soaked with the oil. Thanks...Most of the drip is coming out of the driver side but still get a little bit out of the passenger side as well....
- Attachments
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- Rear axle tube with oil seal
- rearaxle.jpg (21.62 KiB) Viewed 14619 times
- mikeg
- Site Admin
- Posts: 179
- Joined: January 15th, 2003, 4:08 pm
- Body Type: 150B
- Model Year: 1930
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- Contact:
You can get the seals from Brattons or MAC's auto parts, you only need to remove the rear brake drum, which you would have to do if you were to replace the brake shoes.dyoungs wrote:Where can I get the seal? Is this an easy thing to take care of or do I have to rip the whole rear axle apart to get to it? Thanks
The hardest part can be to remove the drum, if you end up using a puller on the drum leave the nut threaded on the axle shaft, but backed off enough to let the drum come loose, otherwise you may be in for a big surprise when the drum lets go of its hold on the shaft!
- dyoungs
- Posts: 158
- Joined: November 12th, 2003, 5:28 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Vestal, New York
Mike,
Do you have a part number for that seal.. I do not have a catalog for Bratton's or Mac's. available. My Brattons catalog would be in the barn which at the moment is under about a 10 foot snow drift.... I would like to get it on order so I have it to get started as soon as I dig a tunnel to the door.....Thanks
Do you have a part number for that seal.. I do not have a catalog for Bratton's or Mac's. available. My Brattons catalog would be in the barn which at the moment is under about a 10 foot snow drift.... I would like to get it on order so I have it to get started as soon as I dig a tunnel to the door.....Thanks
- mikeg
- Site Admin
- Posts: 179
- Joined: January 15th, 2003, 4:08 pm
- Body Type: 150B
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I forgot Brattons doesn't have an online catalog, so I looked up on MAC's and found the following part: BB4245A they run about 9.35 each.dyoungs wrote:Mike,
Do you have a part number for that seal.. I do not have a catalog for Bratton's or Mac's. available. My Brattons catalog would be in the barn which at the moment is under about a 10 foot snow drift.... I would like to get it on order so I have it to get started as soon as I dig a tunnel to the door.....Thanks
- Attachments
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- oilseal.jpg (2.79 KiB) Viewed 14589 times
- dyoungs
- Posts: 158
- Joined: November 12th, 2003, 5:28 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Vestal, New York
Mike,
Well I have tried with a puller and banging with a hammer... No luck... I see that there is a key on the axle.. Does the key come out or can I tap it in as I am pulling with the puller?? I would venture to say that this has not been of in oh about 74 years.... There is oil all over the big castle nut and the shaft itself... Any thoughts??
Thanks Dave
Well I have tried with a puller and banging with a hammer... No luck... I see that there is a key on the axle.. Does the key come out or can I tap it in as I am pulling with the puller?? I would venture to say that this has not been of in oh about 74 years.... There is oil all over the big castle nut and the shaft itself... Any thoughts??
Thanks Dave
- mikeg
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Hi Dave, yeah those drums can be a real bugger. I made a puller from an old junk wheel and that finally broke the hub loose from the axle. The trick is to apply pressure, soak with krols, wd-40 or similar, maybe apply a little heat and then tighten the center bolt down a bit and leave it over night, tap the outside of the drum with a sledge and then tighten the center bolt again, heat and so on. Taping the center bolt will also help.dyoungs wrote:Mike,
Well I have tried with a puller and banging with a hammer... No luck... I see that there is a key on the axle.. Does the key come out or can I tap it in as I am pulling with the puller?? I would venture to say that this has not been of in oh about 74 years.... There is oil all over the big castle nut and the shaft itself... Any thoughts??
Thanks Dave
I think there is a slight groove to the keyway so try to keep the key in place if it starts to come forward with the hub, otherwise it may prevent the hub from coming off.
Here are a couple of pictures of my home made wheel puller.
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- drumpuller1.jpg (21.63 KiB) Viewed 14384 times
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- drumpuller2.jpg (21.75 KiB) Viewed 14384 times
rear drums
Hi. I just resently removed the drums from my early 28to rebuild the brakes also. We have definatly different drums but they go on and off the same way.Be sure your adjustments are all the way out. I don't have a puller but I do have a set of axel nut drivers (don't know what proper name is) but this is what they are used for. You thread them on the axel, snug them up and smack it with a hammer. You could do it by reversing the castle nut and running it onto the axel to the last thread, and using something soft so you don't mar the axel, hit it with a hammer. That the way your grandfatrer might have done it. Do not hit that key. It would jam the key into the end of the keyway at the end of the axel and lock the drum on and make it evan tighter. However once the drum breaks loose. and it it only a few thousants its loose. the next thing that may giv you problems is the break shoes. they will want to bind up int o the drum. Mine did, but by tapping the drum lighly with a hammer they came loose. Be patient. I had my drums turned and caught H--k from some ole timers for doing that. Pressed drums (steel) not to be done. Yours are probably iron. Too soon too old too smart too late. thie is how i did it and someone will say it was wrong "AA" to ya
- dyoungs
- Posts: 158
- Joined: November 12th, 2003, 5:28 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Vestal, New York
Ok... Sorry about so many questions... I am new to this whole working on vehichle thing.
So when I get the drums off do or do I not want to get them turned?
When I had the front drums of and there was not to much of the pad left on the shoes, the drums did not look like they had any wear on them. I could take my finger nail on the inside and it would just barely catch a tiny ridge.
As far as the heat on the rear goes where am I going to want to put it?
Right behind the castle nut or farther up on the drum itself???
Is the heat going to damage the drums?
And how big a hammer should I use??
I have a 16oz hammer that I was using but from what you guys are telling me I am no where close in size with that??
So when I get the drums off do or do I not want to get them turned?
When I had the front drums of and there was not to much of the pad left on the shoes, the drums did not look like they had any wear on them. I could take my finger nail on the inside and it would just barely catch a tiny ridge.
As far as the heat on the rear goes where am I going to want to put it?
Right behind the castle nut or farther up on the drum itself???
Is the heat going to damage the drums?
And how big a hammer should I use??
I have a 16oz hammer that I was using but from what you guys are telling me I am no where close in size with that??
rear drums
Dave, I used maybe a 1-1/2 # mall and I didn't swing hard. Just solid. Also I was able to get my axel seals at locan auto supply store. I just measured the spindle O.D. and took old one with me. Their books list seal by sizes."AA" to ya bert
- BigAl
- Posts: 24
- Joined: September 11th, 2003, 7:21 am
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: North Eastern Conn.
- Contact:
Save the brakes
FYI, An "old timer" told me once to take any oil soaked brakes and cook them in a "not used anymore" BBQ charcole grill. Start up the grill and cook off the oil. He said it would not hurt the parts. He also told me oil soaked brakes were very common.
OK guys...... No luck.. I built a puller like the one you showed me with diamond tread 1/4 steel and two torches heating it and the only thing we did was bend the outside plate where the 3/4" bolt was pulling on the center. Can I split the rear and slide the axles out with the drums on and then have the axle pressed out???? I hope you have good news or some great ideas....
HELP>>>>
HELP>>>>
- dyoungs
- Posts: 158
- Joined: November 12th, 2003, 5:28 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Vestal, New York
OK guys...... No luck.. I built a puller like the one you showed me with diamond tread 1/4 steel and two torches heating it and the only thing we did was bend the outside plate where the 3/4" bolt was pulling on the center. Can I split the rear and slide the axles out with the drums on and then have the axle pressed out???? I hope you have good news or some great ideas....
HELP>>>>
HELP>>>>