Need guidance on how to clean/de-rust the windshield frame from my truck. I don't want to sand blast it for fear that it will warp. I've had good luck using electrolytic de-rusting on several parts but none had enclosed channels like the windshield frame. Pictured is the 55 gallon drum and 110 gallon stock tank that I used:
Parts are suspended in a solution of Arm&hammer washing soda and water and hooked up to a battery charger on low charge. The details of the procedure are spelled out on the Stovebolt.com web sight.
I think I'll drill two small holes under the weather stripping channel to let it dry out and see what happens. Will post later with results.
Sorry about the poor quality of the top picture but it has had a hard life. It was taken with my cell, texted to my wife's phone, then E mailed to her computer, then transferred to my laptop.
my next door neabor does this and he lets it set in until you can move the water by your hand to rub the metal with your finger and the rust floats away.
Electrolysis will help lift paint also. Other methods are submersion in vinegar, or molasses diluted about 7:1 with water to create a "soup". I have done the electrolysis and it works well, but recently I heard about vinegar and molasses. I am testing some rusty pieces right now in 2 gallons of vinegar I bought from walmart, it does work, takes about a week. It is best to wire wheel off as much rust as you can with any of these methods, to decrease required immersion time. Apparently apple cider vinegar is better. The molasses, the guys are getting in 5 gal pails from the feed supply places, I guess cowboys feed it to their hay burners.
John - NNY wrote:Where can I get washing soda?
John
NNY
You can get washing soda at almost any grocery store. Be sure it is Washing soda and not baking soda! About one tablespoon per gallon of water is all you need so a 3.00 dollar box will go a long way. I usually leave parts in my "cooker" for 48 hours and the paint just falls off and a very light wire wheel hit will clean the metal very well. The parts will rust very quickly so you should be ready to protect them as soon as possible.
The solution will last as long as you can stand to look at it so you don't need to change it if you can stand to look at it.
I use baking soda, cause we don't know what washing soda is down here.
I also bought an 80 amp DC welder at harbor frieght for my power source. Doesn't matter how rusty it is, Clean off just a patch of rust only so that I can get good contact from the power source, then let it go to town overnight.
Minor wire brushing the next morning and maybe a second go around is all thats needed.
I use regular Arm & Hammer baking soda, not the one with soap, I do not get the rust flash back. I have a door off my 31 coupe that I stripper the paint, then baking soda removed the entire door 3 weeks age. The metal is still shiny except where a couple of drop of water dropper on it. I'll soak it again in the baking soda and clean the metal again before I prime. Use low amps for the baking soda treatment an hour or two at a time works well for me!!! Shelby, Louisiana.
Wish I had known about this method when I had the opportunity to buy a stainless steel 55 gallon drum a few years ago. I was looking to build a smoker out of it, but the fella wasn't sure what had been stored in it before he got it and I was not willing to give the guy $75 for something that might poison my meat. In hind sight, it probably would have been a great, if somewhat untimely, investment. Luke
"I get all my exercise jumping to conclusions."
Luke in Illinois
Need to tell those of you wanting to try this that your container must be non conductive. In other words plastic or glass. You must not use stainless steel for your container or your electrode. It will put chrome in the water and create hazardous waste. Using washing soda lets you dispose of the water down any drain or outside in a lot or field without any worry.
The neutral electrode or minus side must be hooked to the part being treated and the hot side or plus electrode is hooked to the electrode suspended in the water. It must be set up like this or the part being treated will disappear!
There is a complete article with pictures on Stovebolt.com listed under "tech-tips". Anyone wanting to do this should read this. http://www.stovebolt.com/
I realize this is a GM old truck sight but don't hold that against me. Hope this helps.
Norm.
Sorry about that, I was just thinking out-loud. http://www.stovebolt.com/
states that you can use stainless or iron for the electrode and they recomend using the stainless. Luke
"I get all my exercise jumping to conclusions."
Luke in Illinois
It says on page 2 of the file that the use of stainless as an electrode will create hazardous material that is illegal to dispose of. Also, exposure to fumes from using stainless as an electrode can be hazardous.
The article on the main web sight says you can use stainless but the piece in the pdf file says not. I guess the best advice is just be careful.
By the way, cleaning the electrodes after each session greatly speeds the process.
Here is a link to real good instructions on how to do it. One thing not mentioned that is very important. Dissolve the Washing Soda in a bucket of HOT water before dumping it into the tub. If you dump it in cold water it will crystallize into a blob. http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html
Thank you everyone for the great info on this process, especially the part about Stainless and the Non-conductive tank idea!
I had often paid for plating at many different places, some small and some industrial, they all had plastic lined tanks, even the ones that fit a car frame.
One thing though, I will never have another frame de-rusted and then treated using the immersion technique, as a 1967 Toyota 2000 GT I did a frame off resto on got that treatment and gold cad plating of the frame.
The gold cad deteriorated around every frame joint and weld area on it, turning black 6 months after I finished the car.
Ended up doing it over and having the frame painted.
Apparently, the nooks and crannies held onto some of the dampness and cleaner even after a 2 day rinse in their neutralizing tanks. Cost me $5K to do it over, and weeks of work.
So if you are immersing and cleansing anything with a metal joint or weld that might soak up your cleaner, be prepared for some discoloration after completion unless you can be sure that the nooks are spotless and neutral.
JMHO...
Dave in Quincy, Ca. I love Pics!!!! Post them All!!!
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
