No spark??

[s147881]

I am attempting to get my early 30 AA running after sitting for 60 years. I went thru the entire engine and everything looked great - good compression - I did upgrade the head. I installed new distributor, new coil, new key switch, new cable from key switch to distributor, new plugs and wires. I installed new wiring in the dash, to the coil and distributor and from the generator and starter to power everything. My lights are not currently wired.

Motor turns over fine with starter, Gap on plugs set at .35, points .27. With key on I measure across the coil and I get zero voltage. When I measure each side of coil connection I get -6.4 volts to ground (same for both sides). With this - no spark at the plugs.

Any suggestions??

Do I need to install a ground somewhere??

Interesting note - My engine which had been sitting outside in the weather for 60 years (Wyoming) and was absolutely clean on the inside. No rust, no wear ring in the cylinder and great comp. All bearing tested with plastic gauge as new. The block has no serial number on it to indicate the age. The truck itself had no paint anywhere - all surface rust.

My son is 12 and he and I have recently developed a new excitement about getting the old truck running. I have had it for about 6 years and currently only missing the rear stake racks on the bed. We hope to have it running and parade worthy by memorial day - then I wont have to listen to my dad say "have that truck running yet - I’ll be dead before you do".

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[mbailout2]

Your points should be adjusted to .020 Where did you come up with .027?
I think your points aren't closing. You also might want to check if your adjusting your points at TDC of #1 piston? Are you using any Instruction manual to set up your points and timing?

Set your #1 piston at TDC using the pin on the front of the timing gear cover. Your distributor rotor should be pointing to the #1 position on the distributor cap. Place your spark advance lever on the steering column in the full upright position. Place a 6v test lamp across the points (they should be closed and the test lamp off) and turn on the ignition switch. Slowly pull down the spark advance lever. The points should open (the test lamp will be on) when the spark advance lever is approximately at the second notch of the lever.

I still think your points are adjusted too wide open and aren't closing, but if they are closing, and after you adjust them to .020 and you still have no spark, go to the routine I mentioned above. Also check your capacitor lead inside the distributor that is connected to the points. It's possible you may also have a bad capacitor.

Mark

[s147881]

Thanks - We will check the points. I did set the distributor up with the pin in the front but it had me set the rotor 180 out from #1 - Is this correct?? With #1 cylinder at TDC and pin in detent I rotated the rotor to exactly facing the fire wall - 180 out from #1. I am assuming that the number one cylinder is in the front. Thanks

[Shorthaul]

Regardless of how it's timed or advanced, are you getting any spark at all. I suspect it's a switch problem. Maybe you can do a search in the archives of this forum and come up with something

[Bob C]

Marco probably has the best directions for setting
the timing, here is the link.
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm

Bob

[rollingsculpture]

Thanks - We will check the points. I did set the distributor up with the pin in the front but it had me set the rotor 180 out from #1 - Is this correct?? With #1 cylinder at TDC and pin in detent I rotated the rotor to exactly facing the fire wall - 180 out from #1. I am assuming that the number one cylinder is in the front. Thanks

that sound like the timing gear is not on correctly .

[SHELBY MESSER]

Turn the rotor to point toward the pin in the distributor cap front right,(that is toward the front of engine, toward the mantle fold) With everything else as you stated, They have most all setting in some of the repair books. I do not know where the 180 degr comes form!!!! Hopes this helps!! Shelby, Louisiana.

[vtwinsideways]

Turn the rotor to point toward the pin in the distributor cap front left,(that is toward the front of engine, toward the mantle fold) With everything else as you stated, They have most all setting in some of the repair books. I do not know where the 180 degr comes form!!!! Hopes this helps!! Shelby, Louisiana.

X2.
The front cyl is your #1 cyl and should be close to TDC when the pin is in the detent. the rotor should be facing the front passenger side pin when you set the timing. Luke

[gunmetal]

Did you check to make sure number 1 and 2 intake was not pluged. and Check compression in 3,4 clyinder.

[akstraw]

Somebody said it above; and I agree. I think it may be in your key switch. Check to ensure that you are getting a closed circuit from the coil to the points (thru the ignition switch) when the key is in the on position.

[mbailout2]

If your getting 6v at the coil, your key switch should be OK (see diagram). This is a standard points/condenser coil ignition system. The spark generating circuits are the points, which when closed applies a ground to the secondary winding of the coil, and allows the voltage to build up in the secondary windings of the coil with the capacitor, that forms an LC circuit. When the points open, the voltage buildup in the coil/capacitor circuit will collapse across the coil, and discharge through the distributor rotor to the spark plug gap, to ground. This voltage could be 10,000 to 20,000 volts. The 6v primary windings of the coil are of a very low resistance, (almost a short) and difficult to get a resistance or voltage reading across the coil, but if you are getting 6v in and out of the coil (disconnect distributor lead), the coil primary windings are probably OK., but that does not necessarily mean everything else in the coil is alright.
So for "spark" to happen, you need coil/condenser and points....and applied 6 volts.

Mark

450px-Car_ignition_system_svg.png (72.27 KiB) Viewed 8569 times

[REM]

You should have 6v to the coil at all times.
The ign switch is in the wire from the coil to the dist.
You said you had 6v at both sides of the coil so you might still have a switch problem.
Check for 6v at the points with the switch on. If you have voltage there you probably have a problem with ther points, cond or the wire under the plate in the dist.

[akstraw]

I agree with REM, and recommend the test he outlines. I had a problem once with a bad set of points. I was doing this exact test, and getting a voltage to the post of the points, but not to the end of the arm on the points. Would you believe that there was no continuity from the spring to the arm of the points? Go figure. Some of these import parts on the market aren't worth the boxes to package them.

The diagram posted above is a good depiction of a generic ignition system. But correct me if I am wrong, guys; on the Model A, the key switch is on the circuit on the right side of the coil; not on the left as shown. That is why we are recommending that you test the ignition switch; it lies on the path between the coil and the points. I have found these switches to be troublesome even when rebuilt, so after 60 years, yours may be causing the no-spark problem.

By the way, I also agree with the first recommendation on point gap setting; .027 is way to wide: .016 to .018 should be fine.

[mbailout2]

The drawing is generic and was meant to generate conversation which it did do. akstraw is correct in his remark that the ignition switch is between the coil and distributer. A few different gap suggestions were made on this post. Ford’s gap settings are listed in several places, the most current is in the Service Bulletins Complete, February 1931, page 542; distributor point gap is .018-.022 and the spark plug gap is .035

Mark

[Shorthaul]

Again, I would like to know if you have pulled a plug and checked for spark when turning the engine over?

Have you tried to crank the engine by hand? it may be that all the juice is going to the starter and nothing to the plug. I'm not quite sure why a 6 volt will act like that, I have had it happen on 6 volt systems on Volkswagen's and an old fork lift I had, where it would fire when I released the starter.

I know I read somewhere the switch has to be installed correctly on a 31 AA