Axle configuration

[Shorthaul]

Still trying to remove the rear hubs from the axle on my 31

This truck has been sitting in the garage for about 30 years it was running well when parked.

The rear end is off the truck and the wheels spin free, brakes don't seem to be hung up, adjusters are backed off and brake levers and shafts are removed.

Have tried using a 3 prong gear puller applying pressure between the flange behind the lug bolts and the end of the axle, using heat on the hub area close to the axle--------- with NO success.

Could you all tell me what the configuration of the axle is, am I missing something. I have seen some wild looking pullers on this site. but, I'M thinking these hubs should come off.

[vtwinsideways]

Stripped a HUGE gear puller then exploded an axle nut trying the BFH (big f'ing hammer)method described in another thread on here. I'm about to try the heat wrench, but I don't hold out much hope. I think the AA hubs were welded on with the fires of hell. Sorry I'm no help, but if you figure it out, please tell the rest of us. Luke

[Reds34]

I'm sure that you've thought of these already, but I figured I'd post them. If I was closer, I'd see if I could help. Hope this helps.

http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.ph ... hub+puller
http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.ph ... hub+puller

Red

[Shorthaul]

Red,
Thanks for the links, I Appreciate your effort in digging them up. Didn't think I would ever get to the point of having to use Hydraulic pressure, but, after yesterday I'M convinced that is the only way mine is coming off. I'M going to make a tool and try to borrow a porta power jack and hopefully post a picture of the inside of the drums.

Luke, stay tuned, I'll let you know how it's going.

[vtwinsideways]

Already on it, I'd forgot about the hydro set-up. Gathering parts today and I'll try to build one next week. Thanks and I'll be watching. Luke

[mbailout2]

Sometimes when an axle bearing fails, the bearing casing cuts into the axle race and the hub and prevents removal of the hub no matter how hard you pull on it. Part of the bearing casing sits in the groove and anchors the hub against the axle.

Mark

[Brady]

Hi Mark: -Interesting about the bearing wear situation. Would it work to tip the whole unit upside down to get the bearing to let go from the wear groove? Thanks for the posts, & have a great new year. fb

[spectria]

Already on it, I'd forgot about the hydro set-up. Gathering parts today and I'll try to build one next week. Thanks and I'll be watching. Luke

Once you have the puller arrangement you plan to use installed and tensioned up, make certain to leave the axle nut on a couple threads to keep the hub from blasting off and injuring you.
Then, if you can, with the most tension on the puller you can apply, use an air hammer to pound against the end of the puller in line with the axle shaft. Vibration, along with steady tension is the best way to break the grip of any splined tapered shaft. If you can, use a 8 lb (or 12) sledge to hit the end of the puller on the axle shaft.
Pictured is the Puller I used a thousand times to pull every kind of axle, bearing, every damn thing... and I beat on the end with a 16 pound sledge, why not, unlimited warranty on the tool!

Snap-On Yoke Puller CJ840-C.jpg (90.99 KiB) Viewed 6386 times

Snap-On Bearing Separator CJ-951.jpg (98.79 KiB) Viewed 6386 times

[Chris Haynes]

Here is what the Genuine Ford/Wilson puller looks like.

[spectria]

Here is what the Genuine Ford/Wilson puller looks like.

That is a beautiful tool, and surely effective...
Does anyone own this tool?
I own the one I depicted and It CAN be bought today, so that's what I will go with, but if someone wants to rent out the original, let us know!!!

[mbailout2]

Since it seems I had a situation similar to yours, I can only tell you how I finally got the hub off, and maybe I just got lucky.

With a puller on the hub, it started to come off but stopped after about ¾ of an inch gap between drum and back plate. The drum became difficult to turn as well. I pushed (hammered)the drum back in and pumped the bearing with as much grease as I could, and while tapping the drum and turning it as I applied pressure with the puller, it started to move. After it came out about an inch, it pulled off easier.

Now if your hub and drum is acting this way, it “may” be because of the bearing. It took me a few days to figure it out and a lot of persistence, but that is my story. After removal, I saw the failed bearing and the groove cut into the axle bearing race, with a burr on the outside. It wasn’t a deep groove, but enough to catch the bearing casing.

Now this whole episode took me several hours.

Mark

[nreed]

These are pictures of the puller I built after ruining three different factory made pullers of increasing sizes. This puller is made so that it bars against the ground to prevent turning when standing on the 7' pipe that it took to break the hub loose. The screw is a 1.25" fine thread grade 8 bolt. I used 3/4 breakover bar with a 1.5" socket.

[spectria]

These are pictures of the puller I built after ruining three different factory made pullers of increasing sizes. This puller is made so that it bars against the ground to prevent turning when standing on the 7' pipe that it took to break the hub loose. The screw is a 1.25" fine thread grade 8 bolt. I used 3/4 breakover bar with a 1.5" socket.

Now That's What I'm Talkin' about!!!

[Shorthaul]

nreed------Nice puller, I'M copying it and report in when.

Thanks