New Bare Floor Wood, How do I preserve it?

[spectria]

I bought a kit that has floor wood for my 1930 and 1931 AA's.
I was wondering if anyone had a proven technique for treating the wood prior to Painting and then exposing it to foot traffic and weather?

It's plywood, and bare. I could just treat it with a wood preservative, but I want it to be authentic looking when I finish, and some of those treatments have silicone or wax in them, which wouldn't let proper paint adhere.

Suggestions anyone?

[steve s.]

I like to use boiled linseed oil on bare wood. Often the first coat needs to be cut with thinner or turpentine to allow it to soak in better. Linseed oil will seal and protect the wood, and will provide a good surface for your next coat, if you are using paint. If you want to leave the wood natural, you can use more linseed oil, or make a great hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, turpentine, and spar varnish. Steve

[gunmetal]

I paint the wood the color you what then cover it with Mimwax, it clear and seals the wood.

[Hardhatz]

Paint it with Rust Bullet

[spectria]

Thanks to all for your suggestions, and any more that might come later!

[Chris Haynes]

Paint it with Rust Bullet

Are you concerned that your wood will rust?

[mbailout2]

If you bought floor wood from a Model A Vendor, it's probably already pressure treated plywood. Once installed, you can't see it unless you crawl under the truck anyway, and the top would be covered with the floor mat.

I personally painted mine on both sides with a porch and floor enamel, dark green, but you may be looking for something different.

Mark

[spectria]

Paint it with Rust Bullet

Are you concerned that your wood will rust?

Chris, you are truly special...LOL

[spectria]

If you bought floor wood from a Model A Vendor, it's probably already pressure treated plywood. Once installed, you can't see it unless you crawl under the truck anyway, and the top would be covered with the floor mat.
I personally painted mine on both sides with a porch and floor enamel, dark green, but you may be looking for something different.
Mark

Mine was not pressure treated, and I bought it years ago when I wasn't aware of all the possibilities, it may even be from China.

First, I want what I do to last....
Second, I want it to last...
Third, I want it to look "Good".
Fourth, I want it to last...
Fifth, I want it to Look Original...

BTW, did I say I wanted it to Last???

I have used Behr Deck Stain to preserve Siding, and it has outlasted every other kind of treatment I have ever used on siding, but that doesn't lay flat, exposed to repeated dousing's of moisture and dirt (in most places) where it takes time to dry.

Thanks, and keep 'em coming...

[Rob MacDonald]

Water is a very tiny molecule and it can (and will) penetrate most coatings. Given enough time it WILL penetrate any coating.

The problem begins when the water is prevented from getting back out again. Take a look at any varnished or painted surface that has blisters and/or strips of varnish/paint hanging off of it - that was caused by water trapped under the varnish which literally has lifted the finish off of the wood.

If water can leave the wood at least as easily as it entered it you will have little or no rot for many, many years (after all, living trees spend their entire lives pulling water from the ground through their trunks.) but it will quickly cause rot if it becomes trapped in the wood.

The BEST surface coating I've found is called Cetol. It has characteristics of both 'oil' and 'varnish' in that it soaks into the wood like an oil and provides UV resistance like varnish. Moisture doesn't get trapped under it.

The only disadvantage to us is that Cetol doesn't come in any 'authentic' colours....

oh, and the chemicals used in 'treated lumber' are carcinogenic....

[spectria]

Water is a very tiny molecule and it can (and will) penetrate most coatings. Given enough time it WILL penetrate any coating.

The problem begins when the water is prevented from getting back out again. Take a look at any varnished or painted surface that has blisters and/or strips of varnish/paint hanging off of it - that was caused by water trapped under the varnish which literally has lifted the finish off of the wood.

If water can leave the wood at least as easily as it entered it you will have little or no rot for many, many years (after all, living trees spend their entire lives pulling water from the ground through their trunks.) but it will quickly cause rot if it becomes trapped in the wood.

The BEST surface coating I've found is called Cetol. It has characteristics of both 'oil' and 'varnish' in that it soaks into the wood like an oil and provides UV resistance like varnish. Moisture doesn't get trapped under it.

The only disadvantage to us is that Cetol doesn't come in any 'authentic' colours....

oh, and the chemicals used in 'treated lumber' are carcinogenic....

Yes but considering my past ignorance when I blew asbestos brake dust off of brake assemblies in the shop until I learned it could kill me later, and I washed every kind of thing in the solvent tanks with bare hands, and welded in enclosed areas until that too was exposed as toxic, I would say since I am not, I refuse to even, lick the floorboards of my AA after I am done, I think the other things I have done probably have me more worried!

But you are correct, I don't use ACZA (ammoniacal copper zinc arsenate, it's been banned recently) in any decks, especially the ones I build for free for local schools and parks, and I won't let little ones crawl around the decking of floorboards of the trucks.

Rob, yours is a good warning. I do use Copper Green on many hidden things like Plates on Concrete or close to the ground INSIDE of walls, but that wasn't an option in the AA so that is why I posted this question.

I will check on Cetol and the other products mentioned, and I got one pm regarding a best practice in this area which I will post if I get permission from the person.

I appreciate all the ideas, and want to hear more!

Thanks You!

[spectria]

I like to use boiled linseed oil on bare wood. Often the first coat needs to be cut with thinner or turpentine to allow it to soak in better. Linseed oil will seal and protect the wood, and will provide a good surface for your next coat, if you are using paint. If you want to leave the wood natural, you can use more linseed oil, or make a great hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, turpentine, and spar varnish. Steve

Here is a message I got from a member (with his permission )

Dave, to reinforce what Steve wrote, my Dad was a painter and I learned from him when he re-sided his house with resawn redwood plywood, was to use a 50/50 mix of linseed oil/turpentine. They took that mix and shot it with an airless paint sprayer which drove the material into the wood and it never cracked, chipped or peeled in 25 years that I had tracked it. You might want to also do what he had done, and that was to color it with oil based colors to a color of your choise and not worry about "painting" it. Stain will not crack, chip or peel where as paint will offer that condition normally all the time. Just keep enough, say a gallon or two, and recoat once a year or two with a brush to freshen it up and your wood should endure for many a year.
I suspect that you will not be using your bed as a work surface as it was originally intended, so the sun will be its' worst enemy which was the same condition that my Dad's house had to withstand. He never had to refreshen his and his stood tall and proud to the sun every day for those 25 yrs that I checked on it. It finally lost a shade or two, but that was about all. In your trucks case, your bed will most likely carry some goods from time to time and that perhaps may lead to the need for a "refresher" coat of stain.
Something to consider. Alan

I like the idea of a stain, and I wonder what affect it would have on Plywood that I have for the floorboard, maybe soften the adhesive? Probably nothing would happen, but I wonder if anyone has experience treating Plywood with stain?

[Hardhatz]

Paint it with Rust Bullet

Are you concerned that your wood will rust?

I am concerned that it may Rot. Rust Bullet is simply the toughest finish I have ever encountered, it saturates deeply, sticks like a tax collector, and will protect for a very long time.

I used to use WEST System, but RB is easier and almost as good.

Just don't get it on your skin, your dog, or anything else you don't want painted. It does not come off. Also, when you are closing the can, make ABSOLUTELY SURE there is NO paint on the lid sealing surface. If there is, you will not get it open again. I clean it & then coat the area with lithium grease.

[manyolkars]

.
. Also, when you are closing the can, make ABSOLUTELY SURE there is NO paint on the lid sealing surface. If there is, you will not get it open again. I clean it & then coat the area with lithium grease.

I use two self tapping screws for stuff like rust bullet.
Put one in the lid for paint to come out and one for air to go in.
I never take the lid off.
Its a lot easier and neater

[vtwinsideways]

.
. Also, when you are closing the can, make ABSOLUTELY SURE there is NO paint on the lid sealing surface. If there is, you will not get it open again. I clean it & then coat the area with lithium grease.

I use two self tapping screws for stuff like rust bullet.
Put one in the lid for paint to come out and one for air to go in.
I never take the lid off.
Its a lot easier and neater

Excellent Idea! Thanks for posting! Luke