Where to start looking.
- me0418840987
- Posts: 58
- Joined: November 24th, 2010, 8:27 pm
- Body Type: packers express
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Theresa (Milwaukee) WI
Where to start looking.
I changed out the Distributor last year because of this problem, and the fact that it was wore inside. It ran quite good for the first 50 or so miles yesterday-It finally rained and washed the salt off the roads. On the way home from fueling up, the same problem returned that was present and went away after I thought it was fixed last year. On the way home, for the first 1/2 throttle, the motor has little power, and lugs, even in 1st gear. Get her up to 35 on a flat and she is fine. Lacks power on inclines, more than usual. I cannot test out wether it is only when it is good and warm, or if it will repeat itself upon startup when cold until it quits raining- maybe next week- no play in the dist. and the points are gapped properly. same carb all the time, I changed that before the dist. last time with no change in condition. Slight head gasket seepage, but no coolant in oil, or oil in coolant. Not overheating. Number 4 plug is always wet wether running good or not. No change in exhaust smell. Clear fuel filter is clean and has good flow thru line to carb. I would appreciate any help, as I have never had to work on this engine until now, thank you.
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- Posts: 409
- Joined: January 15th, 2003, 11:48 pm
- Body Type: 82a
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: planet earth
Re: Where to start looking.
Sounds like yer timing advance technique may be improper. Have ya got the timing lever up on startup and 2/3rds down when driving?
I haven't got a lot of miles behind me drivin' one of these things, but that's the way i understand it's done.
I know my truck went like crazy when i pulled that timing lever down some.
Best, russ
I haven't got a lot of miles behind me drivin' one of these things, but that's the way i understand it's done.
I know my truck went like crazy when i pulled that timing lever down some.
Best, russ
Everybody likes pics.
Re: Where to start looking.
I have run into such a thing when cam gear / chain is very worn & had skipped one tooth & retards things...
- me0418840987
- Posts: 58
- Joined: November 24th, 2010, 8:27 pm
- Body Type: packers express
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Theresa (Milwaukee) WI
Re: Where to start looking.
I have the lever properly set. That is something my father drove into my brain. If you don't set the lever properly, you'll destroy the starter drive. I suppose the timing cover needs to come off.
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- Posts: 603
- Joined: May 15th, 2010, 2:34 pm
- Body Type: dump
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Eastern, CT
Re: Where to start looking.
Could it possibly be a vacuum leak? Just wondering.
Red
Red
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- Posts: 603
- Joined: May 15th, 2010, 2:34 pm
- Body Type: dump
- Model Year: 1930
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Re: Where to start looking.
Did you put a new condenser in it when you changed to distributor? Wondering if it could be the condenser acting up when it gets warm? Just another thought.
Red
Red
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- Posts: 52
- Joined: January 28th, 2011, 6:26 am
- Body Type: 82a
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Windber Pa.
Re: Where to start looking.
did you check the coil? that can lead to misfiring when hot also. Radar
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- Posts: 375
- Joined: November 15th, 2008, 8:18 am
- Body Type: 186 stake
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Hawthorne California
Re: Where to start looking.
Up, when starting--------Down, when running, are you sure you pulled it down, if so, try running it in a upper position to see if it worsens the conditions, which it should and then get better as it is pulled down. That would lead me to think like a previous poster stated, it must be out of time, maybe slipped a tooth or a really loose timing chain condition.me0418840987 wrote:I have the lever properly set. That is something my father drove into my brain. If you don't set the lever properly, you'll destroy the starter drive. I suppose the timing cover needs to come off.
- Brian T
- Posts: 400
- Joined: December 27th, 2008, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: San Diego
Re: Where to start looking.
If the truck runs OK some time and not others I would probably change the condensor and check coil polarity, (Do a search on Fordbarn for quick condensor change and pencil test for coil polarity) double check the point gap and timing, I am having trouble wondering why #4 plug is wet , this must be causing a problem of some kind.
There is no timing chain to worry about, however the indent the pin drops into may not be correctly marked, you can check this by removing the plugs and checking that the pin drops in when at TDC, although this and possibly the incorrect timing cover should not cause an intermittant running problem.
Brian T.
There is no timing chain to worry about, however the indent the pin drops into may not be correctly marked, you can check this by removing the plugs and checking that the pin drops in when at TDC, although this and possibly the incorrect timing cover should not cause an intermittant running problem.
Brian T.
Nothing can be made fool proof, fools are ingenious bastards.
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- Posts: 112
- Joined: November 9th, 2009, 9:22 pm
- Body Type: 185-A
- Model Year: 1930
Re: Where to start looking.
Sounds like water in the fuel to me, or possibly the distributer getting wet thru the hood hinge. On that note, I have seen some make a sheet metal gutter to channel the water down the front of the engine when stopped.
Have you tried adding an additive for water? or if you have the origonall fuel bowl on the cowl, does it trap any water in it? (It just doesnt sound like electrical to me for lack of power. Tho I could be wrong) On that note, are you running a paper air filter? I notice they get soaked and restrict airflow to the carb.
Have you tried adding an additive for water? or if you have the origonall fuel bowl on the cowl, does it trap any water in it? (It just doesnt sound like electrical to me for lack of power. Tho I could be wrong) On that note, are you running a paper air filter? I notice they get soaked and restrict airflow to the carb.
- TomH
- Posts: 181
- Joined: September 16th, 2009, 2:11 pm
- Body Type: pickup
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: Where to start looking.
I agree with Brian about the #4 plug being wet. Is it wet enough to foul it, and have you checked it for spark? And my next question would be what is making it wet? I would think that if #4 was fouled you would have 25% less power.
Would the timing gear being off 1 tooth be enough to make a backfire in exh. or intake on these old bangers?
Tom H
Would the timing gear being off 1 tooth be enough to make a backfire in exh. or intake on these old bangers?
Tom H
Need rear fenders and running boards for 1932 131" single wheel Express Body
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: September 30th, 2008, 5:50 pm
- Body Type: 82B
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: southwest harbor, maine
Re: Where to start looking.
sounds like your dist. cap and or body might have some hair line cracks that only bother in real damp wet weather. we used finger nail polish in the old days . 60's.
Dan C.
Dan C.
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- Posts: 409
- Joined: January 15th, 2003, 11:48 pm
- Body Type: 82a
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: planet earth
Re: Where to start looking.
Don't let it get ya down. We all did strange things back in the 60's.DAN CHALMERS wrote: we used finger nail polish in the old days . 60's.
Dan C.
Everybody likes pics.
- rollingsculpture
- Posts: 553
- Joined: December 9th, 2008, 7:30 am
- Body Type: platform
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Takoma Park maryland
Re: Where to start looking.
really seems like a timing problem . there is one thing that can get overlooked and that is the clamp on the steering column that may have been loose and re-tightened out of position that would cause the rods that pull the timing arm on the distributor to be in the wrong position so that when the lever is in advance position if you look at the distributor advance there is still room for travel but the lever can not move because it is out of travel on the column. readjust this point and you will have full travelof the advance arm on the distributor . hope this makes sense. also check out les andrews video on utube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xc7r0djEKo
i followed it to a T and my engine fires right up and runs great every time. its an old worn engine but does great all the same
DO make and use the little timing light he talks about its easy just a couple of wires soldered to a taillight bulb ,it is essential for nailing the precise moment when the point gap is about to let voltage pass. thus perfect timing , also set your gap narrow at .018.
i followed it to a T and my engine fires right up and runs great every time. its an old worn engine but does great all the same
DO make and use the little timing light he talks about its easy just a couple of wires soldered to a taillight bulb ,it is essential for nailing the precise moment when the point gap is about to let voltage pass. thus perfect timing , also set your gap narrow at .018.
Last edited by rollingsculpture on March 27th, 2011, 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- miner art
- Posts: 295
- Joined: March 22nd, 2005, 8:27 am
- Body Type: AA flt.BD.82a
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: gold hill oregon,97525
Re: Where to start looking.
When all else fails,goto electronic ign.I did,you cant tell it from stock, runs purrfict .Also picked up 4mph on the top end with ease.Altho a bit spendy 240$ or so.I used Nu-Rex brandrollingsculpture wrote:really seems like a timing problem . there is one thing that can get overlooked and that is the clamp on the steering column that may have been loose and re-tightened out of position that would cause the rods that pull the timing arm on the distributor to be in the wrong position so that when the lever is in advance position if you look at the distributor advance there is still room for travel but the lever can not move because it is out of travel on the column. readjust this point and you will have full travelof the advance arm on the distributor . hope this makes sense. also check out les andrews video on utube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xc7r0djEKo
i followed it to a T and my engine fires right up and runs great every time. its an old worn engine but does great all the same
DO make and use the little timing light he talks about its easy just a couple of wires soldered to a taillight bulb ,it is essential for nailing the precise moment when the point gap is about to let voltage pass. thus perfect timing , also set you gap narrow at .018.