Where to start looking.

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
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me0418840987
Posts: 58
Joined: November 24th, 2010, 8:27 pm
Body Type: packers express
Model Year: 1931
Location: Theresa (Milwaukee) WI

Where to start looking.

Post by me0418840987 »

I changed out the Distributor last year because of this problem, and the fact that it was wore inside. It ran quite good for the first 50 or so miles yesterday-It finally rained and washed the salt off the roads. On the way home from fueling up, the same problem returned that was present and went away after I thought it was fixed last year. On the way home, for the first 1/2 throttle, the motor has little power, and lugs, even in 1st gear. Get her up to 35 on a flat and she is fine. Lacks power on inclines, more than usual. I cannot test out wether it is only when it is good and warm, or if it will repeat itself upon startup when cold until it quits raining- maybe next week- no play in the dist. and the points are gapped properly. same carb all the time, I changed that before the dist. last time with no change in condition. Slight head gasket seepage, but no coolant in oil, or oil in coolant. Not overheating. Number 4 plug is always wet wether running good or not. No change in exhaust smell. Clear fuel filter is clean and has good flow thru line to carb. I would appreciate any help, as I have never had to work on this engine until now, thank you.
russ
Posts: 409
Joined: January 15th, 2003, 11:48 pm
Body Type: 82a
Model Year: 1930
Location: planet earth

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by russ »

Sounds like yer timing advance technique may be improper. Have ya got the timing lever up on startup and 2/3rds down when driving?

I haven't got a lot of miles behind me drivin' one of these things, but that's the way i understand it's done.

I know my truck went like crazy when i pulled that timing lever down some.

Best, russ
Everybody likes pics.
Hardhatz
Posts: 112
Joined: May 17th, 2009, 10:13 pm
Body Type: Dump
Model Year: 1931

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by Hardhatz »

I have run into such a thing when cam gear / chain is very worn & had skipped one tooth & retards things...
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me0418840987
Posts: 58
Joined: November 24th, 2010, 8:27 pm
Body Type: packers express
Model Year: 1931
Location: Theresa (Milwaukee) WI

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by me0418840987 »

I have the lever properly set. That is something my father drove into my brain. If you don't set the lever properly, you'll destroy the starter drive. I suppose the timing cover needs to come off.
Reds34
Posts: 603
Joined: May 15th, 2010, 2:34 pm
Body Type: dump
Model Year: 1930
Location: Eastern, CT

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by Reds34 »

Could it possibly be a vacuum leak? Just wondering.

Red
Reds34
Posts: 603
Joined: May 15th, 2010, 2:34 pm
Body Type: dump
Model Year: 1930
Location: Eastern, CT

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by Reds34 »

Did you put a new condenser in it when you changed to distributor? Wondering if it could be the condenser acting up when it gets warm? Just another thought.

Red
Radar
Posts: 52
Joined: January 28th, 2011, 6:26 am
Body Type: 82a
Model Year: 1929
Location: Windber Pa.

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by Radar »

did you check the coil? that can lead to misfiring when hot also. Radar
Shorthaul
Posts: 375
Joined: November 15th, 2008, 8:18 am
Body Type: 186 stake
Model Year: 1931
Location: Hawthorne California

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by Shorthaul »

me0418840987 wrote:I have the lever properly set. That is something my father drove into my brain. If you don't set the lever properly, you'll destroy the starter drive. I suppose the timing cover needs to come off.
Up, when starting--------Down, when running, are you sure you pulled it down, if so, try running it in a upper position to see if it worsens the conditions, which it should and then get better as it is pulled down. That would lead me to think like a previous poster stated, it must be out of time, maybe slipped a tooth or a really loose timing chain condition.
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Brian T
Posts: 400
Joined: December 27th, 2008, 9:57 am
Body Type: 82A
Model Year: 1929
Location: San Diego

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by Brian T »

If the truck runs OK some time and not others I would probably change the condensor and check coil polarity, (Do a search on Fordbarn for quick condensor change and pencil test for coil polarity) double check the point gap and timing, I am having trouble wondering why #4 plug is wet , this must be causing a problem of some kind.

There is no timing chain to worry about, however the indent the pin drops into may not be correctly marked, you can check this by removing the plugs and checking that the pin drops in when at TDC, although this and possibly the incorrect timing cover should not cause an intermittant running problem.
Brian T.
Nothing can be made fool proof, fools are ingenious bastards.
Bladehorse
Posts: 112
Joined: November 9th, 2009, 9:22 pm
Body Type: 185-A
Model Year: 1930

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by Bladehorse »

Sounds like water in the fuel to me, or possibly the distributer getting wet thru the hood hinge. On that note, I have seen some make a sheet metal gutter to channel the water down the front of the engine when stopped.
Have you tried adding an additive for water? or if you have the origonall fuel bowl on the cowl, does it trap any water in it? (It just doesnt sound like electrical to me for lack of power. Tho I could be wrong) On that note, are you running a paper air filter? I notice they get soaked and restrict airflow to the carb.
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TomH
Posts: 181
Joined: September 16th, 2009, 2:11 pm
Body Type: pickup
Model Year: 1928
Location: Eastern PA

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by TomH »

I agree with Brian about the #4 plug being wet. Is it wet enough to foul it, and have you checked it for spark? And my next question would be what is making it wet? I would think that if #4 was fouled you would have 25% less power.
Would the timing gear being off 1 tooth be enough to make a backfire in exh. or intake on these old bangers?
Tom H
Need rear fenders and running boards for 1932 131" single wheel Express Body
DAN CHALMERS
Posts: 48
Joined: September 30th, 2008, 5:50 pm
Body Type: 82B
Model Year: 1931
Location: southwest harbor, maine

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by DAN CHALMERS »

sounds like your dist. cap and or body might have some hair line cracks that only bother in real damp wet weather. we used finger nail polish in the old days . 60's.
Dan C.
russ
Posts: 409
Joined: January 15th, 2003, 11:48 pm
Body Type: 82a
Model Year: 1930
Location: planet earth

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by russ »

DAN CHALMERS wrote: we used finger nail polish in the old days . 60's.
Dan C.
Don't let it get ya down. We all did strange things back in the 60's. :shock: :oops: :lol:
Everybody likes pics.
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rollingsculpture
Posts: 553
Joined: December 9th, 2008, 7:30 am
Body Type: platform
Model Year: 1931
Location: Takoma Park maryland

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by rollingsculpture »

really seems like a timing problem . there is one thing that can get overlooked and that is the clamp on the steering column that may have been loose and re-tightened out of position that would cause the rods that pull the timing arm on the distributor to be in the wrong position so that when the lever is in advance position if you look at the distributor advance there is still room for travel but the lever can not move because it is out of travel on the column. readjust this point and you will have full travelof the advance arm on the distributor . hope this makes sense. also check out les andrews video on utube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xc7r0djEKo

i followed it to a T and my engine fires right up and runs great every time. its an old worn engine but does great all the same

DO make and use the little timing light he talks about its easy just a couple of wires soldered to a taillight bulb ,it is essential for nailing the precise moment when the point gap is about to let voltage pass. thus perfect timing , also set your gap narrow at .018.
Last edited by rollingsculpture on March 27th, 2011, 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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miner art
Posts: 295
Joined: March 22nd, 2005, 8:27 am
Body Type: AA flt.BD.82a
Model Year: 1929
Location: gold hill oregon,97525

Re: Where to start looking.

Post by miner art »

rollingsculpture wrote:really seems like a timing problem . there is one thing that can get overlooked and that is the clamp on the steering column that may have been loose and re-tightened out of position that would cause the rods that pull the timing arm on the distributor to be in the wrong position so that when the lever is in advance position if you look at the distributor advance there is still room for travel but the lever can not move because it is out of travel on the column. readjust this point and you will have full travelof the advance arm on the distributor . hope this makes sense. also check out les andrews video on utube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xc7r0djEKo

i followed it to a T and my engine fires right up and runs great every time. its an old worn engine but does great all the same

DO make and use the little timing light he talks about its easy just a couple of wires soldered to a taillight bulb ,it is essential for nailing the precise moment when the point gap is about to let voltage pass. thus perfect timing , also set you gap narrow at .018.
When all else fails,goto electronic ign.I did,you cant tell it from stock, runs purrfict .Also picked up 4mph on the top end with ease.Altho a bit spendy 240$ or so.I used Nu-Rex brand
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