Cleaning Tank

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
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johnnydidd
Posts: 124
Joined: June 20th, 2011, 2:59 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928
Location: Overland Park, KS

Cleaning Tank

Post by johnnydidd »

I have been reading the posts of rust in gas tank. I think I will use muriatic acid to clean and baking to stop the acid. I bought a product called Kreem to act as a liner, can be used with gasoline or alcohol. Do you see any problems. John
SHELBY MESSER
Posts: 752
Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
Body Type: 75-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Sacramento, Ca.

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by SHELBY MESSER »

I've never used muriatic acid to clean a model A gas tank in all my years of owning a model A (56years) I would think your night mare will come alive -down the road. We have plenty of humidity in Louisiana I have some rust I'm sure. Gas preservers will help keep out the moister or alcohol will help keep water to a minimum,mixing the water with the gas and burning it off. Muriatic acid will open the pores in the metal could cause more rust if left in the tank If left to long and the acid is not super cleaned out. Shelby, Sacramento.
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Chris Haynes
Posts: 2203
Joined: September 7th, 2003, 5:18 pm
Body Type: 82A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Camarillo, CA

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by Chris Haynes »

DON'T USE KREEM! You will regret it if you do.
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johnnydidd
Posts: 124
Joined: June 20th, 2011, 2:59 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928
Location: Overland Park, KS

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by johnnydidd »

What should I use? anything? Or just clean it.
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miner art
Posts: 295
Joined: March 22nd, 2005, 8:27 am
Body Type: AA flt.BD.82a
Model Year: 1929
Location: gold hill oregon,97525

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by miner art »

I took mine to a radiator shop. there it was a boilout like a radiator they then lined it with a sealer. seems to work so far.5YR. Good luck!!!!!!!!!!
Art
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spectria
Posts: 1874
Joined: May 15th, 2008, 9:53 pm
Body Type: Mail Truck, Stakebed
Model Year: 1931
Location: Quincy, Ca.

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by spectria »

I would not use an acid, the soda can also accelerate corrosion, and you will NEVER stabilize all of the acid in the seams, I have proved this the hard way, after a professional VERY expensive frame off restoration of a 1966 Toyota 2000 GT (Like in the Bond Films) the plater cleaned and then neutralized the frame for an extensive period as an extra precaution, then I had the entire frame GOLD CAD Plated (I don't even know if that is legal anymore, it's so hazardous requiring cyanide in the process).
Six months later, all of the welded seems on the factory frame began to turn black and it continued to grow.

I ended up having to pay to have the entire frame media blasted then Painted Black. Luckily this happened before reassembly (I was still building the motor, trans and Rear axle) so it was just a trailer ride and I lost my A$$ on the job...
Toyota_2000gt_dashboard.jpg
Toyota_2000gt_dashboard.jpg (356.69 KiB) Viewed 6147 times
Toyota_2000GT_rear Downsized.jpg
Toyota_2000GT_rear Downsized.jpg (194.6 KiB) Viewed 6147 times
2000gtengine.jpg
2000gtengine.jpg (96.6 KiB) Viewed 6147 times
The engine pics are before every bit of hardware was re-chromed or plated Gold Cad.

I would go with the Radiator shop boil-out, and then there is a Phosphate Treatment that somehow joins with the steel tank to halt rusting and corrosion, or if actual perforations show up, there is a resin treatment that works like a dream, probably exactly what Miner Art had done, but I don't remember the name, it's been 15 years since I did one.
Last edited by spectria on July 27th, 2011, 8:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
Dave in Quincy, Ca. I love Pics!!!! Post them All!!! :)
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
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miner art
Posts: 295
Joined: March 22nd, 2005, 8:27 am
Body Type: AA flt.BD.82a
Model Year: 1929
Location: gold hill oregon,97525

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by miner art »

I am sure that's the way they did mine Dave. But like you. I cain't remember the name of the epoxy.Work's well Tho.
mibrasin
Posts: 1
Joined: November 13th, 2010, 8:52 am
Body Type: AA Stake
Model Year: 1930

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by mibrasin »

Do yourself a really big favor and read up on removing rust from inside a tank using an electrode. There are plenty of sites to look at. This process is common in the motorcycle industry. I tried this on my 32 BB in the spring of 2010 and no problems so far. The BB I purchased in 2009 was in storage for many years. Someone added a tank sealer that plugged the fuel line. When I removed the tank for inspection, sheets of gooey sealer were clogging the tank. After a 2 day wrestling match with the tank and a high pressure nozzle on my hose, I was satisfied with getting them out. The tank was very rusty scale inside. I used Arm & Hammer super washing soda and a 10 amp battery charger hooked to a 1/4 inch steel rod. Patience is the key to this process as it took a full week and 4 rods to remove the rust to my satisfaction. It actually worked!!!! 20 spoons disolved in hot water went into the tank and filled with water. Attached the pos to the electrode with a rubber tip on the bottom and a rubber sleeve to prevent contact at the opening. The negative attached to the tank and wait. This is far worse than watching paint dry. Twice a day the electrode was caked with rust. I wiped clean and replaced the the steel rod when needed as it was eaten away. After a week the scales of rust were gone and the metal inside was a dull grey. I now sit on a nice clean tank. Wow, I have a new respect for all the chemists in the world. Thanks to you all. This forum needs spell check I think.
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johnnydidd
Posts: 124
Joined: June 20th, 2011, 2:59 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928
Location: Overland Park, KS

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by johnnydidd »

Mibrasin, Looks good, I will give it a try, Thanks John
Bladehorse
Posts: 112
Joined: November 9th, 2009, 9:22 pm
Body Type: 185-A
Model Year: 1930

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by Bladehorse »

A common practice is to parkerize things. its a tank filled with phosphoric acid, that is heated to about 110* This is the process ford used to treat the steel before painting(Why they are still here today) It takes a while(Like 2-3 days) but it turns the steel black and rough(Like a sandblasted finish) it inhibits rust, and doesnt continue to attack the steel later. I can imagine removing the gas valve,plugging it with a steel plug. filling the tank with 2-3 quarts of acid, filling the tank with hot water to the top, then tossing a coffee mug heater in the filler neck to keep it hot. when the inside is good and black, just flush well with water(And save the acid if it isnt completely dead for more projects!)
John - NNY
Posts: 119
Joined: October 1st, 2007, 6:38 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by John - NNY »

Eastwood sells a kit and products specifically for rusty tanks.
russ
Posts: 409
Joined: January 15th, 2003, 11:48 pm
Body Type: 82a
Model Year: 1930
Location: planet earth

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by russ »

Wow, dave. What a stunning 2000 GT. I'm not familiar with that body style and i thought i knew the cars from that era (my era).

That six banger looks like it might have had some punch. How did it fare against the heavier higher horse eight cylinders of the day (the ones i was drivin')?

Great lines on it anyhow! Thanks for the pics.
Everybody likes pics.
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TomH
Posts: 181
Joined: September 16th, 2009, 2:11 pm
Body Type: pickup
Model Year: 1928
Location: Eastern PA

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by TomH »

mibrasin wrote:Do yourself a really big favor and read up on removing rust from inside a tank using an electrode. There are plenty of sites to look at. This process is common in the motorcycle industry. I tried this on my 32 BB in the spring of 2010 and no problems so far. The BB I purchased in 2009 was in storage for many years. Someone added a tank sealer that plugged the fuel line. When I removed the tank for inspection, sheets of gooey sealer were clogging the tank. After a 2 day wrestling match with the tank and a high pressure nozzle on my hose, I was satisfied with getting them out. The tank was very rusty scale inside. I used Arm & Hammer super washing soda and a 10 amp battery charger hooked to a 1/4 inch steel rod. Patience is the key to this process as it took a full week and 4 rods to remove the rust to my satisfaction. It actually worked!!!! 20 spoons disolved in hot water went into the tank and filled with water. Attached the pos to the electrode with a rubber tip on the bottom and a rubber sleeve to prevent contact at the opening. The negative attached to the tank and wait. This is far worse than watching paint dry. Twice a day the electrode was caked with rust. I wiped clean and replaced the the steel rod when needed as it was eaten away. After a week the scales of rust were gone and the metal inside was a dull grey. I now sit on a nice clean tank. Wow, I have a new respect for all the chemists in the world. Thanks to you all. This forum needs spell check I think.
I don't mean to hi-jack this post, but it seems that there are more BB's on here lately. Could you please post a new thread with some pics of your 32?
TomH
Need rear fenders and running boards for 1932 131" single wheel Express Body
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nreed
Posts: 61
Joined: March 15th, 2010, 1:20 pm
Body Type: 31aa
Model Year: 1931
Location: Hartford City, Ind.

Re: Cleaning Tank

Post by nreed »

Just thought I would suggest that instead of using steel rods for the electrodes you might try carbon rods. They can be bought from Grainger's for around $8.00 for a pack of five. They are 5/8 diameter 10 inches long. They will do a better job than steel and you don't have to clean them. Just hook a solid insulated copper wire to one end with a small hose clamp and hang it in the tank. You can totally submerge the rod. Just be sure it doesn't touch the bottom. I processed a cowlband in a 55 gallon plastic drum in two hitches with this method and it worked like a charm. Also derusted the bumper supports and backing plate with this method and the carbon rod hasn't shown any wear yet. I still have 4 rods left for future projects. I used a 12 volt charger set on low charge and left the parts in the "cooker" for 24 hours. A light wire brushing after is all it needed for bright metal. I realize you can't wire brush inside a tank but a good rinse with warm water should clean it up.
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