Cleaning Tank
- johnnydidd
- Posts: 124
- Joined: June 20th, 2011, 2:59 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Overland Park, KS
Cleaning Tank
I have been reading the posts of rust in gas tank. I think I will use muriatic acid to clean and baking to stop the acid. I bought a product called Kreem to act as a liner, can be used with gasoline or alcohol. Do you see any problems. John
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: Cleaning Tank
I've never used muriatic acid to clean a model A gas tank in all my years of owning a model A (56years) I would think your night mare will come alive -down the road. We have plenty of humidity in Louisiana I have some rust I'm sure. Gas preservers will help keep out the moister or alcohol will help keep water to a minimum,mixing the water with the gas and burning it off. Muriatic acid will open the pores in the metal could cause more rust if left in the tank If left to long and the acid is not super cleaned out. Shelby, Sacramento.
- Chris Haynes
- Posts: 2203
- Joined: September 7th, 2003, 5:18 pm
- Body Type: 82A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Camarillo, CA
Re: Cleaning Tank
DON'T USE KREEM! You will regret it if you do.
- johnnydidd
- Posts: 124
- Joined: June 20th, 2011, 2:59 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Overland Park, KS
Re: Cleaning Tank
What should I use? anything? Or just clean it.
- miner art
- Posts: 295
- Joined: March 22nd, 2005, 8:27 am
- Body Type: AA flt.BD.82a
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: gold hill oregon,97525
Re: Cleaning Tank
I took mine to a radiator shop. there it was a boilout like a radiator they then lined it with a sealer. seems to work so far.5YR. Good luck!!!!!!!!!!
Art
Art
- spectria
- Posts: 1874
- Joined: May 15th, 2008, 9:53 pm
- Body Type: Mail Truck, Stakebed
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Quincy, Ca.
Re: Cleaning Tank
I would not use an acid, the soda can also accelerate corrosion, and you will NEVER stabilize all of the acid in the seams, I have proved this the hard way, after a professional VERY expensive frame off restoration of a 1966 Toyota 2000 GT (Like in the Bond Films) the plater cleaned and then neutralized the frame for an extensive period as an extra precaution, then I had the entire frame GOLD CAD Plated (I don't even know if that is legal anymore, it's so hazardous requiring cyanide in the process).
Six months later, all of the welded seems on the factory frame began to turn black and it continued to grow.
I ended up having to pay to have the entire frame media blasted then Painted Black. Luckily this happened before reassembly (I was still building the motor, trans and Rear axle) so it was just a trailer ride and I lost my A$$ on the job... The engine pics are before every bit of hardware was re-chromed or plated Gold Cad.
I would go with the Radiator shop boil-out, and then there is a Phosphate Treatment that somehow joins with the steel tank to halt rusting and corrosion, or if actual perforations show up, there is a resin treatment that works like a dream, probably exactly what Miner Art had done, but I don't remember the name, it's been 15 years since I did one.
Six months later, all of the welded seems on the factory frame began to turn black and it continued to grow.
I ended up having to pay to have the entire frame media blasted then Painted Black. Luckily this happened before reassembly (I was still building the motor, trans and Rear axle) so it was just a trailer ride and I lost my A$$ on the job... The engine pics are before every bit of hardware was re-chromed or plated Gold Cad.
I would go with the Radiator shop boil-out, and then there is a Phosphate Treatment that somehow joins with the steel tank to halt rusting and corrosion, or if actual perforations show up, there is a resin treatment that works like a dream, probably exactly what Miner Art had done, but I don't remember the name, it's been 15 years since I did one.
Last edited by spectria on July 27th, 2011, 8:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
Dave in Quincy, Ca. I love Pics!!!! Post them All!!!
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
Join the Ford Model AA Truck Club - membership form at http://www.fmaatc.org
- miner art
- Posts: 295
- Joined: March 22nd, 2005, 8:27 am
- Body Type: AA flt.BD.82a
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: gold hill oregon,97525
Re: Cleaning Tank
I am sure that's the way they did mine Dave. But like you. I cain't remember the name of the epoxy.Work's well Tho.
Re: Cleaning Tank
Do yourself a really big favor and read up on removing rust from inside a tank using an electrode. There are plenty of sites to look at. This process is common in the motorcycle industry. I tried this on my 32 BB in the spring of 2010 and no problems so far. The BB I purchased in 2009 was in storage for many years. Someone added a tank sealer that plugged the fuel line. When I removed the tank for inspection, sheets of gooey sealer were clogging the tank. After a 2 day wrestling match with the tank and a high pressure nozzle on my hose, I was satisfied with getting them out. The tank was very rusty scale inside. I used Arm & Hammer super washing soda and a 10 amp battery charger hooked to a 1/4 inch steel rod. Patience is the key to this process as it took a full week and 4 rods to remove the rust to my satisfaction. It actually worked!!!! 20 spoons disolved in hot water went into the tank and filled with water. Attached the pos to the electrode with a rubber tip on the bottom and a rubber sleeve to prevent contact at the opening. The negative attached to the tank and wait. This is far worse than watching paint dry. Twice a day the electrode was caked with rust. I wiped clean and replaced the the steel rod when needed as it was eaten away. After a week the scales of rust were gone and the metal inside was a dull grey. I now sit on a nice clean tank. Wow, I have a new respect for all the chemists in the world. Thanks to you all. This forum needs spell check I think.
- johnnydidd
- Posts: 124
- Joined: June 20th, 2011, 2:59 pm
- Body Type: AA
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Overland Park, KS
Re: Cleaning Tank
Mibrasin, Looks good, I will give it a try, Thanks John
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- Posts: 112
- Joined: November 9th, 2009, 9:22 pm
- Body Type: 185-A
- Model Year: 1930
Re: Cleaning Tank
A common practice is to parkerize things. its a tank filled with phosphoric acid, that is heated to about 110* This is the process ford used to treat the steel before painting(Why they are still here today) It takes a while(Like 2-3 days) but it turns the steel black and rough(Like a sandblasted finish) it inhibits rust, and doesnt continue to attack the steel later. I can imagine removing the gas valve,plugging it with a steel plug. filling the tank with 2-3 quarts of acid, filling the tank with hot water to the top, then tossing a coffee mug heater in the filler neck to keep it hot. when the inside is good and black, just flush well with water(And save the acid if it isnt completely dead for more projects!)
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- Posts: 119
- Joined: October 1st, 2007, 6:38 pm
- Model Year: 1930
Re: Cleaning Tank
Eastwood sells a kit and products specifically for rusty tanks.
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- Posts: 409
- Joined: January 15th, 2003, 11:48 pm
- Body Type: 82a
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: planet earth
Re: Cleaning Tank
Wow, dave. What a stunning 2000 GT. I'm not familiar with that body style and i thought i knew the cars from that era (my era).
That six banger looks like it might have had some punch. How did it fare against the heavier higher horse eight cylinders of the day (the ones i was drivin')?
Great lines on it anyhow! Thanks for the pics.
That six banger looks like it might have had some punch. How did it fare against the heavier higher horse eight cylinders of the day (the ones i was drivin')?
Great lines on it anyhow! Thanks for the pics.
Everybody likes pics.
- TomH
- Posts: 181
- Joined: September 16th, 2009, 2:11 pm
- Body Type: pickup
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: Cleaning Tank
I don't mean to hi-jack this post, but it seems that there are more BB's on here lately. Could you please post a new thread with some pics of your 32?mibrasin wrote:Do yourself a really big favor and read up on removing rust from inside a tank using an electrode. There are plenty of sites to look at. This process is common in the motorcycle industry. I tried this on my 32 BB in the spring of 2010 and no problems so far. The BB I purchased in 2009 was in storage for many years. Someone added a tank sealer that plugged the fuel line. When I removed the tank for inspection, sheets of gooey sealer were clogging the tank. After a 2 day wrestling match with the tank and a high pressure nozzle on my hose, I was satisfied with getting them out. The tank was very rusty scale inside. I used Arm & Hammer super washing soda and a 10 amp battery charger hooked to a 1/4 inch steel rod. Patience is the key to this process as it took a full week and 4 rods to remove the rust to my satisfaction. It actually worked!!!! 20 spoons disolved in hot water went into the tank and filled with water. Attached the pos to the electrode with a rubber tip on the bottom and a rubber sleeve to prevent contact at the opening. The negative attached to the tank and wait. This is far worse than watching paint dry. Twice a day the electrode was caked with rust. I wiped clean and replaced the the steel rod when needed as it was eaten away. After a week the scales of rust were gone and the metal inside was a dull grey. I now sit on a nice clean tank. Wow, I have a new respect for all the chemists in the world. Thanks to you all. This forum needs spell check I think.
TomH
Need rear fenders and running boards for 1932 131" single wheel Express Body
- nreed
- Posts: 61
- Joined: March 15th, 2010, 1:20 pm
- Body Type: 31aa
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Hartford City, Ind.
Re: Cleaning Tank
Just thought I would suggest that instead of using steel rods for the electrodes you might try carbon rods. They can be bought from Grainger's for around $8.00 for a pack of five. They are 5/8 diameter 10 inches long. They will do a better job than steel and you don't have to clean them. Just hook a solid insulated copper wire to one end with a small hose clamp and hang it in the tank. You can totally submerge the rod. Just be sure it doesn't touch the bottom. I processed a cowlband in a 55 gallon plastic drum in two hitches with this method and it worked like a charm. Also derusted the bumper supports and backing plate with this method and the carbon rod hasn't shown any wear yet. I still have 4 rods left for future projects. I used a 12 volt charger set on low charge and left the parts in the "cooker" for 24 hours. A light wire brushing after is all it needed for bright metal. I realize you can't wire brush inside a tank but a good rinse with warm water should clean it up.