1929 aa stakebed

[bobcarver]

Mike suggested I start this as a new topic and I always appreciate suggestions. My wife started a new job, I go to visit and see this beautiful though beat up old truck. Talking to the owner I learn he's been taken through the wringer having electric redone. The shop worked on it 3 times, charged a bundle, and it still doesn't work right. Horn goes off when u turn wheel and other stuff. I offered to work on it, being a fan of classics, but never having worked on something this old. It has been handed to me to fix up. I need advice, what publications to buy would be a start. He complained about it spitting and backfiring so was not aware that there is a manual spark advance. (maybe) This will be fun, but challenging so would appreciate advice and help.

[gunmetal]

You could e-mail me at terry_rose2002@yahoo.com or call 574-221-1475 cell if you give me your phone number I will call you when time is right for you. I live in Indiana (Milford. Northern part of Indiana.

[gunmetal]

You could e-mail me at terry_rose2002@yahoo.com or call 574-221-1475 cell if you give me your phone number I will call you when time is right for you. I live in Indiana (Milford. Northern part of Indiana.

[bobcarver]

First I need to find why the battery keeps going dead after a "professional" auto wiring company rewired it. Also I need to redo the window seals and perhaps clean or lubricate the mechanism that rolls them up and down. Looks hard to get to. Rust is a problem but not as bad as it would be up north, where we came from when moved to Texas.

[flatford39]

May not be anything wrong with the wiring. Could be a bad battery, generator, cut out, ignition switch or maybe a short somewhere. Does it start??

[gunmetal]

fix the horn and then see if battery goes die. the horn is proble grounding out because the horn sound when you turn the wheel.
Window crank roll window all the way up, then try and take wd-40 with the straw and spray the window crank inside the door.
When you say weather strip around window, are you talking about the fuzzy stuff that is on the sides of window and on top? e-mail me at terry_rose2002@yahoo.com with your phone number and I will call you. and explain better. And what would be a good time for me to call. My avator is my truck now all in pieces.

[bobcarver]

Thanks for the hints. Right now I am needing to change oil and lubricate. The Ford instruction book doesn't specify what types of lubricants to use. What weight oil should go in the transmission? engine? Got the rear differential figured out. This model aa has a foot pedal that doesn't appear in the Ford instruction book. It possibly is a low high gear selector? Lots to learn. The local brake shop refused to work on brakes citing the need to rivet brake shoes as something they were uncomfortable with.

[Neil Wilson]

bobcarver,
My suggestion is that you find a local Model A club or some local Model A folks to help you with the mechanics. Books are great. But, a Model A guy with knowledge on how to work on them would be the most help.

Where are you located? What is the "Ford instruction book" you reference (title or picture of cover)? Post a picture of the pedal you mentioned. Without seeing what you have, it is just a guessing game!

[elfox]

bobcarver -

I was cleaning my garage today and came across a wiring diagram that was sent with a new wiring harness for my '29. Sorry the picture is so bad, but it was in a box with a bunch of old parts and got beat up a bit. Unfortunately, it doesn't show where the battery is connected, but it is a start. Hope this helps. - elfox

[Bob C]

One fairly common problem with the battery going dead is the brake light switch staying on.
It is mounted on the left side of the transmission.

Bob

[Boomer]

Hi Bob,
Check this wiring diagram:

http://www.webjunk.com/modela/wp-conten ... lor2sm.jpg

The positive terminal of the battery is grounded to the frame while the negative terminal is attached to the starter.
Good luck,
Drew

[bobcarver]

Ok, now I am trying to replace window felt tracks. Tried to squeeze and slide them down each side but that isn't working well. Is it better to remove the window glass all the way, and if so how. The kit I bought comes with adhesive that I suspect is to be used for the top piece for the window frame. There is a bag of small screws in the kit but no directions where they are to go. Instructions would be nice. Would appreciate any advice.

[rollingsculpture]

[quote="bobcarver"]Ok, now I am trying to replace window felt tracks. Tried to squeeze and slide them down each side but that isn't working well. Is it better to remove the window glass all the way, and if so how. The kit I bought comes with adhesive that I suspect is to be used for the top piece for the window frame. There is a bag of small screws in the kit but no directions where they are to go. Instructions would be nice. Would appreciate any advice.[/quote

yes take the glass out the whole thing replaces what you have in there now the screws are for holding the track in place and the adhesive is for the top rubber cushion as you said.

[1crosscut]

Just yesterday I asked the same question of Steve at Bert's Model A and this is what he sent me.
Dave

"On the door glass, you need to install the glass on the metal channels with the A45512 set tape. Install the regulators in the door first. Then take the felts, put them on the glass teproarily, then carefully put the glass and felts down in the door (making sure the glass in in the right orientation- it is taller in the back). After it is in the door, then clip the felts at the top, then try the glass up and down with the handle. Then if it works like you want, then put a dab of glue on the back of the felts and you are done.

Well, not quite. Then glue the sponge rubber in the top of the door to seal the top."

[Neil Wilson]

While the method that Steve outlines most likely works, it is not how the original glass runs (i.e. called the felts above) were installed.

The reproduction glass runs that I bought are slightly too wide to fit and slide (down/up) in the glass run retainers. I modified the glass runs to shorten the width. I used a 1/4" thick strip of steel about 8" long. I inserted the strip of steel into the run and then clamped the run in a vise to crimp the run to the 1/4" width. Then I moved the steel strip and crimped the run again. I repeated this until the section of the run below the window opening (i.e. inside of the door) was crimped.

And, there is a second clip which is for the lower end of the glass runs. Attached is one picture from a detailed article in the April 2011 Double A'er (Ford Model AA Truck Club newsletter). which covers details of the 82-A door glass.