new owner... with questions/want ads

[pyrodork]

wow! tons of good info! thanks!

i'll try that chisel/oil method for the steering wheel nut. i'm essentially trying to unscrew it with the chisel, right? i more or less just want to replace it with a new one and get the broken lightswitch rod out... or can i get that out without removing the nut? regardless, nut will be replaced, but that rod needs to come out!

vinegar and baking soda it is! i'll try to figure out a good water supply. i do know a couple of the neighbors because of my plymouth, but it's not my neighborhood so i don't really know them.
oh yeah! i also remember a great product called evaporust. totally natural ingredients, so it's safe for the environment. i'll look into that and kroil, too.

my tranny has got to be from an AA because it's a 4 speed. i only assume the clutch would be, too.

got the jim schild book yesterday. also ordered the 3 les andrews manuals (guy selling all 3 on ebay, new, shipped, for $102!).

thanks! this is a great group!

[Bob C]

You don't need to remove the steering wheel to get the light rod out, there is
a horse shoe clip at the bottom of the rod you need to remove and you
can pull it out.

Bob

[vtwinsideways]

You don't need to remove the steering wheel to get the light rod out, there is
a horse shoe clip at the bottom of the rod you need to remove and you
can pull it out.

Bob

X2! if you're not replacing the steering wheel or rebuilding the steering box, I wouldn't take it apart. There may be a metal "bulb" (light switch housing) attatched to the bottom of the steering box. You will need to remove it to get to the hoorseshoe shaped clip. Luke

[Brady]

You also won't need to worry about the light switch rod hitting the underside of the roof...

[pyrodork]

You don't need to remove the steering wheel to get the light rod out, there is
a horse shoe clip at the bottom of the rod you need to remove and you
can pull it out.

Bob

X2! if you're not replacing the steering wheel or rebuilding the steering box, I wouldn't take it apart. There may be a metal "bulb" (light switch housing) attatched to the bottom of the steering box. You will need to remove it to get to the hoorseshoe shaped clip. Luke

well, i have no lightswitch/horn button or light switch box at the moment. no headlights or horn either, for that matter... but that will come in time.

You also won't need to worry about the light switch rod hitting the underside of the roof...

exactly! i have no roof!

[pyrodork]

ok, just got back from a brief trip to the garage.

- can't find any horseshoe clip on the light rod. it doesn't even seem like there's anything holding the spring and 2-prong switcher-thingy on at all. i sprayed it thoroughly with pb blaster to soak for the next time i go.

- engine isn't turning now. can someone explain why it had been sitting outside for several years and still turned, last weekend it turned well (i sprayed pb blaster in the plug holes to help it along), and now it's garaged and stuck? i tried turning it with the hand crank and it's not budging. the only thing that i can think of is that it's cold enough outside for the blaster to freeze (apparently it's 13 degrees out now)... but my spray bottle of blaster wasn't frozen. i put a little bit of oil and seafoam in the plug holes (don't have any marvel at the garage yet).

haven't pulled the head yet (obviously)... but i was also wondering if there's going to be an issue with the water pump and distributor when i do.

got my 3 volumes of les andrews books today; as well as a catalog from tam's... better prices on a lot of things than what i've found before.

got the radiator out and brought that and the tranny tower home with me. i think the radiator might be shot, but we'll see. would it be more economical to repair/re-fin the one i have or buy a different used one? not sure what a job like that costs. i do know the AA radiator is larger than the A.

[steve s.]

This is just a hunch, but your engine may not be stuck at all. Perhaps the transmission is stuck in two gears, and with the clutch engaged, the engine won't turn. Try to turn the engine while a helper pushes in the clutch pedal ( or use a stick ) . Good luck, Steve

[Bob C]

You can't see the horse shoe clip until you push the spider up, it
fits in a recess in the bottom of the spider.

Bob

[flatford39]

As Steve said I suspect you are in gear since you have been in the trans looking around.

[pyrodork]

never thought it could be in gear. i'll check that out!

i'll also push up the spider to see if i can find the clip.

thanks! such quick response!

[1crosscut]

It will help to lightly clamp the light switch to one of the spokes on the steering wheel to keep the horn rod from moving up when you push up on the spider. Use a standard screw driver to push up on the spider and grab the clip with a needle nose pliers.

[modeleh]

Clean off all the grease from the bottom of the transmission and have a good look at the case to ensure it isn't cracked. It seems many of these old trucks sat out in the weather long enough for the fabric roof to start leaking and the rain water drips down the shifter and gets into the the trans. Years of rainy nights and a few cold winters and the trans can get enough water in it and freeze and crack the case, the weather warms up, the water leaks out via the crack, and you come by years later and find rusty gears inside. There is a good chance there was oil in that trans when the truck was parked.

[modeleh]

sorry, disregard previous post, I just went back and re read all the posts and noticed Keith had already suggested checking for a cracked case.

[vtwinsideways]

Your radiator should be the same as a '28 thru mid '30 Model A. 4 cores didn't show up until April 1930 in the Ford Service Bullitins. Luke

[pyrodork]

2 more weeks and i can put more time into this (that's when my quarter of school ends). money... that's another story!

1) show of hands (if you will), should i fix up the electronics, fill 'er with oil, and try to start it without removing the head or replacing gaskets? overall, the engine does look in decent shape. i know i've got a long ways before driving, but just see where i'm at with that?

2) those popout switches are pricey. any reason (besides originality) to use one over the basic $20 switch?

3) it doesn't appear that my truck ever had shocks. i see no recognizable mounting holes in the front. is this correct?

4) spark plugs. would i be best off to get adapters for 14mm plugs or go with the original style? if i should go with 14mm plugs, what kind would i get? i'm looking for function and finances over looks and originality. not planning on driving the truck in less than 45-50 degree weather (and that's pushing it). i suppose if i use the adapters, i'd have to get a modern distributor cap and wires, right (because the standard connectors wouldn't be long enough)? i'm already going to buy modern distributor plates, but i do want to keep the original cap/body.

5) PTO. i'm going to post a new topic on this in case others want to know (so please reply there... http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3302), but i have no idea how to operate mine if i wanted to. i have no controls for it. i found nothing on youtube. pics would be awesome.

6) radiator cap. i assume the AA had just a plain flat cap versus the fancy quail or motometer(?). so first of all, how visible is the thermometer in those that have them; and second, theoretically since this is a no pressure system, i could drill a hole in a flat cap and install my own ornament... as long as i seal it up good, right?

- i'm planning to get a new water outlet with the temp sender port installed (eventually). mine has had a repair job on it.
- going to get some rubber caps at home depot this week and see if my rad will hold water.
- got my trans tower guts soaking in vinegar. it's cleaning up nice, but i still have crud to remove and need to get the lever to operate. haven't been able to get those square-head bolts to move yet.
- probably looking at replacement starter/generator. those screws are pretty rusty so i assume i couldn't remove them if i needed to rebuild. i'm weighing the options for a 6v alternator, but would rather not spend that kind of money right now. looks as though there's some sort of air vent with a hinged cap near the bottom of the generator. tried to move it (after soaking in pb blaster) and it almost broke off. i will be getting the fuse assembly that mounts on the starter, as i've learned my lesson about that with my studebaker.
- just bought the "henry's lady" book on ebay. looking forward to those hundreds of pictures!
- i'll eventually start a photo album here. i've posted a few pics on my facebook. look for me/friend me if you'd like. my username is pyrodork, name is psychotty schizophrenic... but i warn you: i can be vulgar, opinionated, and offensive at times. it's not for the weak of heart... which is why it's got privacy settings.

lastly, you guys are awesome. there's such a great support group here for folks like me; as i've found in a few automotive groups. sadly, life in general is often not this pleasant.