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I replace my brakes in my rear, emergency and service. I turned the wedge all the way back, the springs are all new. I wired the rotors to remove rust. I can get one on, but the other one is too tight to fit. Any ideas. I have not turned down the rotor, may be out of round. What arfe the limits to how far to turn them down? Thanks in advance for your expert advice.

Are you calling the brake drums rotors??? Original drums are steel and not cast iron. You don't cut them. I think you might have an assembly problem. Did you re-arch the shoes to match your drums???

Hi, Yes they are drums and very heavy ones at that. Thanks for the advice on turning them, or better yet not to. So that leaves reshaping, How is that done? Where can I read about it. Thanks

Put the shoe's in the drum and see how they match up

JPP wrote:Hi, Yes they are drums and very heavy ones at that. Thanks for the advice on turning them, or better yet not to. So that leaves reshaping, How is that done? Where can I read about it. Thanks

You reshape the shoes to match your drums. There are re- arching machines that do it but they are pretty hard to come by in useable shape. Old auto repair shops that did break jobs all had them back in the day but in today's disposable world it's hard to find anyone still doing it. I hope others chime in here as to what there doing.

Take one of your brake shoes off and put it inside your drum. See where the brake lining hits the drum. Contour the lining to match the arc of the drum. Hopefully, you have non-asbestos linings. A belt sander could do the trick.
John
NNY

I used a belt sander and wore a respirator.
You might want to use a framing square off the end of the axle to make sure the lining are square with the axle.

Guys, Lots of great techniques to solve my problem. It never occurred to me that the brakes and the drums would be different. I have an old timer mechanic local, i want to ask him if he ever reshaped brakes, he will get a kick out of it I am sure. Thanks again for the sage and prudent advice.

as far as arcing goes, I have a brake shoe arcer, if anyone needs to have it done. I need to make a dustbag trap for it however

hey, can you take a picture of your machine and post it. would be great to see one. thanks

Here's two different ones, these are both Barrett brand

Bob, Thanks that looks great. Wish you were down the street, i could bring it to the dokter for service.

Guys, to complete this tread, sanded down the rear pads with my belt sander, on the high spots, drum slide in no problem, adjusted wedges and good to go. Thanks again for the advice.

I had the same problem when I had the e brake relined. THey do not make the lining in the correct thickness, so I couldnt get the drum on. I ended up taking the bands to a local shop who had a giant belt sander, and he sanded them down for me. I would recommend NOT using whats called a 'hard weve' kevlar lining, but the 'soft' weave kevlar. The hard weve litterally ripped in 1/2 the first time I tried the brake to see if the pull was equal. The brake supplier, told me to use the soft weve over the hard, and said it is more akin to brake bands that are self energizing, and less likely to grab, and tear.
Hopes it helps someone! I still need to get the axle together enough to bother trying again, tho I still have the dirty 'A' word brake bands and shoes from another truck!