1930/1931 Rear Spare Carrier Wanted For 157 WB

[E.Moore]

Matt, Where are you on yours?

[Matt Kroll]

Eric,

See my 'Parts is Parts' gallery at http://www.smokypond.com/gallery/pictures/1930+Ford+AA/

I'm a little bit further along than what you see in the pics there, having installed the front spindles just a couple of weeks ago.

Now that summer is here, progress has slowed. It seems that I have all kinds of outdoor activities lined up for me by the "boss" (aka my wife).

Yours is looking good!

-Matt

[E.Moore]

It has taken months to get this far on the 157. The NOS small parts search took the longest time to complete. The rear springs and the differential were installed over the weekend 9-13-08.

[Drew Mashburn]

Eric:

Baby! That chassis shines! Were they originally that shiney?

-- Drew

[Chris Haynes]

No.

[E.Moore]

Yeah, you're right, most probably weren't that shiny, but every shift at Ford had painters that thinned the old alkyd gloss black enamel with turpentine which caused the gloss to dull; However, thinning caused the paint to dry more slowly. The more time a painted component took to dry, the more backed up the assembly line became, and more warehouse space was needed for freshly painted components that had to be put aside to dry before the component assembly could be installed on a vehicle coming down the assembly line. Ford discovered that the black pigment air dried more quickly than any other color. Each batch of paint was thinned to the weather that is was being sprayed at. Hot summer days did not need much if any thinning. Cold winter days needed thinning and with the additional thinning, the frames were more dull in finish. The most glossy black cars and truck running gears were during the hot summer months. My running gear was painted with PPG Concept 9000. I like the PPG paints better because they flow better from the paint guns, adhere better to the work surface and covers the work surface better than other brands of paint. I chose to paint it during hot summer months and decided not to add a dulling additive to it.

[Matt Kroll]

Eric,

Well I'll be darned! I could have left mine that shiny?

I originally had mine finished in a black powder-coat that had 85% reflectivity. I thought it was too shiny so I stripped it. That was extremely costly.

Yours is certainly looking good Eric. You're probably going to get yours finished before I do (work keeps getting in the way).

-Matt

[E.Moore]

Current photos as of June 21, 2009

[E.Moore]

Current Photos as of June 21, 2009

[E.Moore]

Current Photos as of June 21, 2009

[Chris Haynes]

Current Photos as of June 21, 2009

All that shiny cadmium plating would have bee painted black.

[E.Moore]

Those bolts were orignially plain finish, but the judging standards states that cadmium finish is acceptable for preservation of the vehicle in those cases.

[Neil Wilson]

Eric,
I am trying to find the information in the Judging Standards which indicates that cadmium plating can be used for plain finished hardware. Please let me know the section/page.

[Drew Mashburn]

Chris:

The cad-plated stuff should probably be painted black, but I think each of us should "restore" our AA's in the manner that best suits our desires. That's, unless we're going to go for show, then they should be restored to reflect the vehicle as close to possible as it rolled off of the assembly line. Nevertheless, I have a question for you. When were the parts (like nuts and bolts) painted black at the factories? Before or after assembly? If after, how does one keep from chipping the paint when installing (tightening) the part?

-- Drew

[rsierk]

If the parts are painted after assembly, why do they need to be assembled or tightened further (which chips the paint)?