Fire Truck Start Success!
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- Posts: 79
- Joined: September 14th, 2012, 2:18 am
- Body Type: Fire truck
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Manchester, NH
Fire Truck Start Success!
Everyone,
Thank you for your guidance, especially with the searchable posts.
Now that it runs, my next problem is that I think it is overheating. There is enough fluids in the radiator and it seems that it moves around inside. Any ideas to get it running cooler?
Thanks,
Matt
Thank you for your guidance, especially with the searchable posts.
Now that it runs, my next problem is that I think it is overheating. There is enough fluids in the radiator and it seems that it moves around inside. Any ideas to get it running cooler?
Thanks,
Matt
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Myself....I would take the radiator to a radiator shop and have it backflushed and checked that all the tubes are clear. Secondly, check your distributor and point setting.
- 1crosscut
- Posts: 877
- Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Lincoln, NE
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Go to Harbor Freight or similar place and get an infrared thermometer. "Fire" up the truck and get it good and warm. Play the thermometer over the radiator to see if you have areas of uneven temperatures that would indicate restricted flows. On my radiator I removed it and sealed the hose inlets and put a gallon of straight simple green in and sloshed it around once in a while for a few days. Worked well for me.
Just as a quick way to see if it really is over heating sneak one of your wifes meat thermometers out of the kitchen and test the water while it is running. If not actually over heating and you are seeing bubbling while running it could be that you need to torque the head or perhaps you have a bit too much water in the radiator. They seem to like the water level a little bit lower than one would first think.
Dave
Just as a quick way to see if it really is over heating sneak one of your wifes meat thermometers out of the kitchen and test the water while it is running. If not actually over heating and you are seeing bubbling while running it could be that you need to torque the head or perhaps you have a bit too much water in the radiator. They seem to like the water level a little bit lower than one would first think.
Dave
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Dave
Dave
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: March 28th, 2012, 7:13 pm
- Body Type: AA stake bed
- Model Year: 1930
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
An engine with new rings will overheat until the engine gets its rings worn in after about 100 miles. If not a dirty radiator, my next guess for an overheating Model A problem may be due to a tight engine.
- TomH
- Posts: 181
- Joined: September 16th, 2009, 2:11 pm
- Body Type: pickup
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
What is it that makes you think its running hot? I know that my truck will push coolant out of the overflow if the radiator is filled over the baffle when its cold.
Tom H
Tom H
Need rear fenders and running boards for 1932 131" single wheel Express Body
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- Posts: 79
- Joined: September 14th, 2012, 2:18 am
- Body Type: Fire truck
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Manchester, NH
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
My indication of it overheating is the sweat pouring from my face. I had the floor boards off for easy access to the battery, but there was a lot of heat coming from the engine compartment.
Where is the overflow? I have seen water shooting from the water pump. I figured that may be the problem, but it almost sounds like part of the solution.
I took a kitchen thermometer to it and it seemed normal.
If the heat I felt on my face is normal, then I am good with it.
Thanks,
Matt
Where is the overflow? I have seen water shooting from the water pump. I figured that may be the problem, but it almost sounds like part of the solution.
I took a kitchen thermometer to it and it seemed normal.
If the heat I felt on my face is normal, then I am good with it.
Thanks,
Matt
- 1crosscut
- Posts: 877
- Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Lincoln, NE
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Matt - with the floor boards removed you will get a lot of heat in the cab. So I wouldn't worry about that. What temperature did the themometer read? When you look inside the radiator neck you will see the top of the over flow tube. It runs down along side the radiator to the bottom. If the water level is too high it will puke water out of it. Is your radiator cap gasket good? Where is the water "shooting from"? If the water pump is leaking around the packing on the shaft nut try snugging it up a bit. They sell a special wrench for this but you can use pliers if you want. Just wrap a rag or such around it to keep from marring it up. If that doesn't stop it order some new packing and add a wrap or two to the shaft.
Dave
Dave
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Dave
Dave
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- Posts: 79
- Joined: September 14th, 2012, 2:18 am
- Body Type: Fire truck
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Manchester, NH
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Dave,
Thanks for the advice. The coolant pukes from the shaft coming from the water pump to the fan. I was considering taking it apart to see what is worn out.
I am glad to know that it should be hot, but it's hot for an open cab. I am going to focus my attention now on the water pump and then on lubricating everything. Then, it should be parade ready.
I am concerned about the leak from the rear axel, where I suspect it is leaking modern gear lube rather than the 600 weight gear lube. So, what should I expect when I take the rear axel apart?
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks for the advice. The coolant pukes from the shaft coming from the water pump to the fan. I was considering taking it apart to see what is worn out.
I am glad to know that it should be hot, but it's hot for an open cab. I am going to focus my attention now on the water pump and then on lubricating everything. Then, it should be parade ready.
I am concerned about the leak from the rear axel, where I suspect it is leaking modern gear lube rather than the 600 weight gear lube. So, what should I expect when I take the rear axel apart?
Thanks,
Matt
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- Posts: 1442
- Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
- Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: SO CAL
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Where is the rear axle leaking?? These pictures are of a TT rear axle but the AA is similar.
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- Posts: 79
- Joined: September 14th, 2012, 2:18 am
- Body Type: Fire truck
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Manchester, NH
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Bob,
Thanks for the diagrams. I am going to look at it Tuesday night. I will let you know where the leak is.
Matt
Thanks for the diagrams. I am going to look at it Tuesday night. I will let you know where the leak is.
Matt
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- Posts: 79
- Joined: September 14th, 2012, 2:18 am
- Body Type: Fire truck
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Manchester, NH
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Here is a link to the fire truck running just after I started it. Sorry that the video is shaky. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dEuH14i ... ata_player
- 1crosscut
- Posts: 877
- Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Lincoln, NE
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Matt - before you take the water pump apart try to tighten the water pump shaft packing nut. If the packing nut hasn't been tightend for a while it might take several turns. Snug but not super tight. Be careful when greasing the water pump. Any excess grease will go right into the coolant / radiator plugging things up leading to over heating.
Putting the proper 600 wt. in the rear end might slow the leak down enough to get you through the remainder of the fall and then you can put it up on blocks and work on it while the snow flies.
Dave
Putting the proper 600 wt. in the rear end might slow the leak down enough to get you through the remainder of the fall and then you can put it up on blocks and work on it while the snow flies.
Dave
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Dave
Dave
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- Posts: 1442
- Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
- Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: SO CAL
Re: Fire Truck Start Success!
Matt, Disregard the pictures, I was thinking you were working on a 28 not a 30.
Bob
Bob