Dual High Pictures

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I was able to get it rebuilt today and thought that I would share some pictures.
Dave

Set 1

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Set 2

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Set 3

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Last set.

[markt]

nice photos Dave, thanks

[rust_bucket]

Great pictures..that will help a lot when I get to that point.

[Ford Truck Nut]

Nice job!
i have the early "hexagon" cased daul high i rebuilt. the bearings and races looked good so i left them,
I soaked the whole unit in gas for an hour and ten took it apart cleaned it and then sandblasted the case and painted it. Ordered new seals and gaskets and put her back in tonight! ...Considered a rebuild?
John

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Glad that it went well for you. Did you remember to hand pack the front roller bearing with grease prior to installing it?
Dave

[Ford Truck Nut]

never knew it had to be done!!!
I figured the oil(tar) would get to it
John

[Stakebed]

Is it pretty straight forward disassembly crosscut? (like remove the bolts things slide apart etc) no funny pins or gotta remove this lever first or nothing will move right?

What did you clean your gears/shafts parts with? Im gonna have to get a seal kit... Where did you get yours from?

[1crosscut]

never knew it had to be done!!!
I figured the oil(tar) would get to it
John

If you think about how it went together you will notice that the oil seal is on the inner side of that bearing. The only way it gets lubricated is from excess grease from the u-joint. You have two ways to get grease into the bearing prior to installation. One is to take it all apart again and most likely you will have to replace both seals again. The other is to pack the bearing with grease with it installed. Ask me how I know!!!!!
I chose to grease it with it installed rather than taking it apart. Probably more work that it was worth but I like a good challenge and I hated to spend the extra money to replace the seals again.

What I did was thread a grease zirk into the end of a 1/2" male pipe thread bushing that in turn threaded into a 1/2" pipe cap. I then got a 1/16" diameter brass tube that I slightly flattend about 4" of the end with a hammer and then ground the now flat sides of the tube to make it thin enough to insert along side the shaft into the bearing. It was a bit tricky to make it flat and thin without collapsing the tube or grinding through the sides. Then I drilled a hole the same size as the tube in the end of the cap, roughed up the round end of the tube and JB welded it in place in the cap. I was then able to lay the dual high on its side, insert the tube and pump grease into it. Be careful not to wiggle too much or the tube may break and then you will definitely need to pull it back apart.
Good luck!
Dave

[1crosscut]

Is it pretty straight forward disassembly crosscut? (like remove the bolts things slide apart etc) no funny pins or gotta remove this lever first or nothing will move right?

What did you clean your gears/shafts parts with? Im gonna have to get a seal kit... Where did you get yours from?

It is pretty straight forward. To take it apart you have to grasp the center shaft and slide it back and forth several times to drive / work out the large tin donut shaped piece of metal and once you get it loose everything will slide right out. The only pin / shaft that you will need to remove is the shifting fork shaft.
The only complication I had (other than greasing one of the bearings... see prior reply) was on reassembly you need to push the tin donut shaped piece in only far enough to allow the shifting forks to slide to the rear just enough to shift. If you push it in all the way it will not allow the grears inside to move far enough outward for the forks to move forward enough to shift.

All I used to clean the gears was a parts washer solution and then went over them with a wire wheel brush.

I got the seal kit from Snyders.

The oils seals you can get from NAPA part #12404 You will save yourself about $20.00 getting them from NAPA.

Dave

[Stakebed]

Bumping this post up...I need to find some good parts degreaser!

I know you said you got the new seal from napa (thanks for posting up that number BTW) and a gasket set from snyders but is there anything else that should be looked at /replaced while its apart? (obviously chipped teeth broken bearings etc)

I drained out what goop i could and filled with paint thinner and spin the shafts and shifted a few times, seems to roll smoothly engaged and disengaged so i don't think i have mechanical problems. Shafts spin true with no wobble so i think im good haha.

Just to clarify in my head both u joint housings should have NO gear oil in them? Should be completely packed in grease? When I took my driveline apart there was no evidence of grease in the u joint housings and u joints have no play in them or rusted due to being coated in that thick oil... Im not saying mine was right but just curious...

Also what brand of grease guns do you guys use??? we have a lever type and a single hand pistol grip type and i hate them both... Never seems to get the dang grease out of the tubes(always seems the dang rubber plunger is way too big) and hand packing them full is such a pain to do and then you get a whole lotta air trapped in them...

[gunmetal 2]

thanks for the pics I always wondered what they looked like inside

[Reds34]

I used John Deere Corn Head grease for the U-joints on my '34. Just put it in a grease gun and filled em up. Hope this helps.

Red