Worm Drive Woes (picture heavy)

[Stakebed]

Well tore it apart, cleaned it up, have some issues i believe...

drive shaft end - while drive shaft looks to be great

passenger side inner bearing - looks to be great - pic for number refrence

axle end

main gear itself



spider gears, one side seems to have chewed up the carrier, other side has no wear...


other side

now pics of a problem - bearing surfaces look mint, worm itself looks like rust






another problem: front worm bearing and race



Another another problem

chipped roller on drivers side - i got the broken off nub out but i cant get the bearing off the axle and no room to tap it off...
neat tidbit - spedo drive gear


So questions:

1: I'm going to guess the rusted parts are no good?
2: Short of buying another worm with unseen insides how/where do i get new parts?
3: Should i tear apart the rear axles some more to check the spider gears?
4: What could chew up the carrier like that? I see no chipped teeth on anything...
5: Im going to assume that drivers side carrier bearing is junk with the chipped roller
6: For those of you who just drain and refill do you guys think the insides of yours are/were rusted?

thanks in advance...

[1crosscut]

Stakebed,
My not be as bad as you think. Unless you are going to be loading your truck to the gills and hauling heavy loads and going mega miles you might be fine cleaning things up, and using some emery cloth to smooth out the rusted areas. The driven ring doesn't look too bad. A little thin but I'm not seeing large chunks missing from the faces of the gears. I think that the driven ring gear can be reversed so the more used/worn drive side is switched so that it is only used in reverse. Other will chime in on that if I am wrong I'm sure. The two tapered timpken roller bearings and races can be replaced. I can get you the numbers for the new bearings. (very spendy though) I think that the roller bearing can be found with some searching but you might be able to make yours serviceable. The main thing as far as bearings go is the rear thrust bearing. Finding a good one of those if yours is bad might be a challenge. You can dig into the spider gears if you want. I did not on mine. Pull outward on the axles as you rotate them and if they feel smooth I wouldn't dig into them.
You will probably have to use the blue wrench to warm up the tapered roller bearings to get them to come off the axle. I found the races in the two axle halves to be the more challenging things to get to come out. I used a piece of 1/2" steel rod about 3' long with some grinding, welding and fabrication on the end to push the races out. When you get to that point let me know and I can go into more depth what I did on that.
Dave

[Stakebed]

yea im not planning to do any heavy hauling (maybe straw or something as props but not like a endloader of gravel or anything).

to reverse the drive gear is there anything wrong with just putting the whole axle assembly in the other way?(meaning the original drivers side axle half would now be the passengers)

yea the bearing and race i could smooth up with some fine emery paper.

the rear thrust bearing your talking about is this guy right:


it seems to be ok, cleaned it up and free rolled it and seems to be smoothish. when you put some force on it it is very smooth. i cant detect much play in it.

the bearing races for the large timkens seem to be perfect, only spot is that chipped roller on the one side, the other bearing came off with a bit of force with my fingers.

now you say pull out on the axles as i rotate them, as it is now should there be any looseness? like if i have the gear assembly being supported by the axles on jack stands and i lift only by the bronze gear both axles flop down a tad. to do what you say should i rest the bronze gear and spider assembly on a chunk of wood/foam and then pull on the axle and rotate?

Ill have to look over our PM's for the oil seal information... gonna get a steel tub and a buncha gallons of kerosine to clean up the axles first... (4 year old gas worked wonders today)

[1crosscut]

Yes that is the thrust bearing. The one at the very rear of the differential.
Just grab one of the axles with your hand and pull it straight out twords where the tire would be and then rotate it. Should give you an idea if there is problems with it.
I would replace the races along with the bearings. No sense in putting a brand new bearing against a worn race no matter how good they look. I replaced mine as pairs because I don't really want to open it up again any time soon.
I suppose you could just turn the entire axle.
Be sure to smooth down the rust and pitting on the spiral worm drive gear while you are at it.
Dave

[Stakebed]

oh yea i planned to on the worm.

yea i REALLY dont want to mess with this axle ever again in my lifetime. oil that behaves and looks like gloss black rustoleum paint isnt fun to play with. still not sure what im going to do with the bucket of it haha.

yea go ahead and send me the PM for the bearings and races when u get time.

[spectria]

oh yea i planned to on the worm.

yea i REALLY dont want to mess with this axle ever again in my lifetime. oil that behaves and looks like gloss black rustoleum paint isnt fun to play with. still not sure what im going to do with the bucket of it haha.

yea go ahead and send me the PM for the bearings and races when u get time.

Might be good to start the burn pile?

[1crosscut]

Here are the numbers for the bearings and races.

Tapered roller bearing. Timken (39236) Replaces Timken (AA 4221)

Race / cup. Timken (39433) Rplaces Timken (AA4222)


Dave

[Brady]

Hey Dave: As some NY dairy farmers did in the '50s, it could be "painted" all over the cows to keep the nasty flies off them. Old used oils like that were kept in a tub, and lathered all over the animals with what looked like a wallpaper glue brush. I think all the milk got shipped down to NYC - maybe that 's what's wrong with 'em now. Looking back, I can't imagine how they ever got away with it.

[spectria]

Hey Dave: As some NY dairy farmers did in the '50s, it could be "painted" all over the cows to keep the nasty flies off them. Old used oils like that were kept in a tub, and lathered all over the animals with what looked like a wallpaper glue brush. I think all the milk got shipped down to NYC - maybe that 's what's wrong with 'em now. Looking back, I can't imagine how they ever got away with it.

The Good Ole Days,

[Stakebed]

Here are the numbers for the bearings and races.

Tapered roller bearing. Timken (39236) Replaces Timken (AA 4221)

Race / cup. Timken (39433) Rplaces Timken (AA4222)


Dave

alrigth ill have to look em up. i get a small discount at grainger so maybe they will get em

[Stakebed]

hmm another local supplier wants $86 a piece for each bearing...

I checked snyders to see what their charging and they list that AA-4221 differential bearing and its only $31.80 each but only listed for the 30-31..

[Bob C]

Here is a link to some 39433 on Ebay. The buy it now is $55 or best offer, I would offer $40 or
$45 and see what happens. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMKEN-2-265-I- ... 484fc8eecb

Bob

[spectria]

Here is a link to some 39433 on Ebay. The buy it now is $55 or best offer, I would offer $40 or
$45 and see what happens. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMKEN-2-265-I- ... 484fc8eecb

Bob

That listing is for the race only, if you believe the pics.

[1crosscut]

Yep they are very spendy bearings. I don't think that the 30-31 bearings will work.

[Stakebed]

Yea just called Snyders and they said they are different...Looks like i get to go on the hunt!

Now when i google the AA4221 number i do get bearing websites that say they have it but i don't know exactly how snyders does their numbers...Like is that AA4221 number an actual bearing number but it being the wrong 30-31 style or did snyders just reuse the ford part numbers for thier catalouge.

Amazon says they have the timken bearing
http://www.amazon.com/Timken-Tapered-St ... B007A7DIHI