spectria wrote:Stakebed wrote:Any advice? Surely I'm not the only one who's had to cobble a rear-end back together...
OK, seriously,
1) The backing plate looks like it will clean up. Grind/weld as needed
2) The Drum is hard to tell, needs measuring after sandblast and turning (skim)
3) The worm is good enough though the input shaft must be repaired, welded up and cut back, the pin just keeps it located, and shouldn't be carrying any load.
4) The Brass Worm gear may last awhile, after flipping (I heard this is possible).
5) I’d use the date correct housing if it matters other wise the one with the least pitting.
6) The drive shafts your choice
7) Rusty axle with bad key is iffy, blast and buff then look again, bolt good drum on tight and spin to see if you have wobble.
8 )The spiders should come free after good soak, should be worn same as the ones visible... You can mix and match lightly worn spiders and axles, very little wear occurs here unless you rally or autocross.
JMHO
PS: Great Pics!!!
Lol yea i know i work in a factory 40+ hrs a week i live in steel toe metatarsal shield boots so yes every chance i get i wear sandals haha.
answers:
1) Alright, my original 2 are in much better shape so i will probably use them instead.
2) Drum has pitting and has a visible and can feel a good taper to it and deep scoring where i believe a brake shoe or something was cocked causing all sorts of issues. That and im sure its wobble-tastic since i had to beat it off with a sledge hammer... My original 2 are clean shiny metal (major axle goo leak years ago) with no visible taper
3) yea the worm i was pretty happy with until i saw the spline wear, drive shaft has some play between it and the coupler and hammer marks where its been beat off before. I think i will stick with my original with no play. What would it run me to get the spline repaired? I imagine it would be pricey due to having to carefully weld and then machine each individual spline...
4) Like i said my original has more meat left on it with no chips in the gears, good to know this one is still useable tho.(pic of gear below is my original)
5) Yea mines got a bit more exterior pitting but they are almost identical where it counts (bearing surfaces and insides) mine may have less wear where the clams slide for the springs somehow.
6) plan to use original, the bottom one is a march 29 while the top one is later with the worm oil hump on the side of the casting. i thought it was weird how they dropped the long taper and beveled the splines more on the later - possible easier to align in u joint?
7) Keyway definitely has a rounded edge as with the rusted key. If you notice the end of the shaft where the nut goes also has pretty weak stripped threads. Im wondering if the axle nut wandered off at some point causing the drum to not sit tight on the taper and round the key over Also this would allow water to get in and rust and allowing the drum to scrape the brake stuff causing that bad scoring on the inside of the drum. Does explain alot now that i think about it...When i got it the nut was tight so where the nut should be has good threads.
My original spiders slid off the cross and scattered when i took them out of their sticky oily home and they they fit freely but snug together. These tho after sitting for an entire week in kerosine 2 slid off in the bucket and other 2 if you put them were they would normally be there is play but spin smooth but when you try to slide them off they bind up hard. Ive thought about using a small 3 jaw puller on them to get them off.
heres a pic of my original housing
Another thing is what parts or areas of parts would you get sandblasted? What areas would you cover up so it doesnt get blasted? Would you even sandblast? I plan to POR-15 everything and that stuff does love to cling to rust.
Would you guys paint the inside of the backing plates a bright color so you can detect leaks and accidental grease seepage easier? I know people paint the inside of the trans bellhousing silver or white to make it easier to see.
Also i know you said to have the drums sandblasted and lightly turned - who turns such monstrous oddball hub/drum assembles?
Another thing i noticed are the emergency brake lever bushings. They appear to be made of folded copper, not brass like the parts houses sell. I cleaned them up even more and they are as copper colored as a new penny.
Also notice they have the little indention's in the inside to hold grease in place - brass remakes do not.
They have the ford script so i know their legit. Don't know if that is in the judging standards or if there are any JS for AA's... (im not building a show car but do like to help out the community of people who do especially since there seems to be less known about the AA's and their AA specific parts. - Those guys have my highest appreciation who build the show cars down to every lock washer, i dont have that kind of patience haha)
oh by the way poor mans parts washer: for those of us who are limited on space and extra dough.
5 gal plastic bucket, gallon of kerosine($4.22), $6 hand powered liquid pump from harbor freight, and parts washer brushes from harbor freight ($3 for 2). Pump some kerosine over the gear/carrier/any part you can stick in or over the bucket and let it sit a few minutes, brush, flush with more kerosine, and repeat.
I have since upgraded to about 10 gal of kerosine and a 20 gal tub with a snap tite lid haha
Picture wise i do enjoy photography as a hobby (one of my many many hobbies but probably least expensive haha) so even on quickie photos like these i like to make sure thier at least clear and the thing i want a picture of is in focus. I went scouting around my area for picture locations and old barns/buildings and found a bunch. Marked on my GPS so one of these days i will be ready to take the AA there!
