1929 closed cab wood roof installation

[1oldman57]

I am trying to install a roof wood kit on my 1929 closed cab truck. I bought the bolt kit, but some bolts seem to be
too short and I am not positive what wood screws to use since they provided many. Also are you suppose to use
some kind of caulk where the wood meets the metal? No instructions?

[Neil Wilson]

I have found some type of filler between wood and metal (in my observation). I have used a black roofing tar myself. Once the wood is installed and tightened, the tar sets up a little after a week or so. I use a gas soaked rag to clean any tar exposed (after scraping off as much as possible).

All joints need to be smooth. I fill any cracks with wood filler (sanding before and after). Most bolts are countersunk below the wood surface. After installation, the holes need to be filled and sanded smooth.

I don't know of any documentation regarding screw sizes and locations. The following has a number of good top pictures.

Marco Tahtaras
http://abarnyard.com/temp/82-a/
1929 Closed Cab upholstery and top pictures

[SHELBY MESSER]

Ha ole man, Order yourself "MODEL A FORD MECHANIC'S HANDBOOK"-VOLUME 2 FROM MAC'S, PART #AMHS $31. It has all the inf. you will need and some Shelby, Louisiana.

[gunmetal 2]

to put between metal and wood you use black friction tape. Some auto parts stores carry it, MSC, Granger. There are two different widths. please don't use my low number of answers to judge me. I have a 1929 AA CCPU that is being completely restored by me.

[Neil Wilson]

I would not recommend using friction tape between the top wood and metal. Friction tape would serve as an anti-squeak material. But, it will not seal the parts water tight and that is what is needed.

[1crosscut]

This is what I used. Worked really, really well. Got it at an auto body paint and materials supplier. Soft, pliable, sticky and stays flexible.

[SHELBY MESSER]

I'm restoring a '31 coupe. I see all kinds of places that have leaks over the years (metal to metal) and wood to metal that has leaked. I have a roll of electrical rubber tape I am going to seal the metal to metal and the wood to metal. The tape is sticky on one side that will hold it (the tape) in place making mating the panels much easier. Also I have some under coating I got at Wal-mart(rustoulm) I think and it is really good, looks good and goes on good , Shelby, Louisiana.

[1oldman57]

Thanks for all the advice. I have a mechanic's II book with instructions and supplies. Wood filler, sand paper and clear
silicone caulk. Also lots of C-clamps, drill for pilot holes, wood screws, machine screws and carriage bolts.

[1crosscut]

Thanks for all the advice. I have a mechanic's II book with instructions and supplies. Wood filler, sand paper and clear
silicone caulk. Also lots of C-clamps, drill for pilot holes, wood screws, machine screws and carriage bolts.[/quote

You forgot to list the Big Hammer.

Careful with the silicone caulk. Paint will not stick to it and it tends to squish out in places that you won't want it.
Consider the stuff that I used. You can lay it out and take your time. Days and or weeks if you like. Once you start using the silicone caulk the clock starts to tick on getting things assembled.

[Neil Wilson]

It is important to fit the complete top wood kit as a first step. If the top is not square. Door installation will be a problem.

The wood (less bows) should be installed with enough fasteners (snug only) to hold the wood on. Then the top needs to be squared (maybe using pipe clamps). Once square, then fasteners can be tightened and the bows installed. At this point verify that the top should remain square with the pipe clamps removed.

Finally, the top wood can be removed and reinstalled with sealer between wood and metal (rechecking the top for square).