FRAME REPAIR

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
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macswoods
Posts: 283
Joined: May 4th, 2009, 1:20 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Wilhoit, Arizona

FRAME REPAIR

Post by macswoods » January 10th, 2014, 12:07 pm

I need to weld new front frame horns on my 29 AA,(got em from Fordman 88, NICE<thanks) What welding rod would be recommended to use to do the job ? The pieces will be attached behind the front cross member. :?: Mac...

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fordman88
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Model Year: 1929
Location: Salina, Kansas

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by fordman88 » January 10th, 2014, 12:19 pm

You're welcome!! Glad ya like them and hope they work :smile:
Trevor O Davis

Reds34
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Joined: May 15th, 2010, 2:34 pm
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Model Year: 1930
Location: Eastern, CT

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by Reds34 » January 10th, 2014, 12:39 pm

ARC or MIG? It would be a lot easier to MIG it, but you can ARC it too. You would probably be fine with 6013 in 1/8" or 5/32". I have used some stuff called 80T AC plus I believe. That is some nice welding rod. Very easy to work with and weld with in different directions.

Red
Last edited by Reds34 on January 10th, 2014, 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

flatford39
Posts: 460
Joined: September 24th, 2009, 3:06 pm
Body Type: Express
Model Year: 1928
Location: NE Illinois

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by flatford39 » January 10th, 2014, 4:41 pm

Behind the front crossmember you are going to want the best penetration possible. I would ARC or what I call stick weld it and not use a mig. The rod type suggested is fine. I would probably use both..a root pass and then a final. Start with the 3/16 and finish with the 1/8th.

Bob C
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Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
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Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by Bob C » January 10th, 2014, 5:36 pm

Did you mean 3/32 for root pass, I think 3/16 is way to big .

Bob

flatford39
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Body Type: Express
Model Year: 1928
Location: NE Illinois

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by flatford39 » January 10th, 2014, 7:55 pm

Bob C wrote:Did you mean 3/32 for root pass, I think 3/16 is way to big .

Bob
Sorry...fingers where typing faster than the mind was thinking. 3/32 is the right first pass.

1929 AA boy
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Joined: January 17th, 2011, 8:11 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1929
Location: Dickinson, North Dakota

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by 1929 AA boy » January 11th, 2014, 5:40 am

Another thing you would want to consider is putting a 1/4 inch plate on the inside of the frame where your weld is going to be I usually cut a square piece how wver big I need and turn it to be diamond like so that two corners of the plate are pointing at your weld then weld it on if you are welding both sides of the frame - the place where you put the plate should be ground smooth so it is flat against ... Another pointer is to bevel both sides of the frame iron to about 30 degrees and set it with about a 16th inch gap (pipe welder tricks ) that way you get great penetration and helps your weld lay out smoother ... If you want it real technical you can up hill weld the sides with 1/8 7018 that would probly be the toughest but if you don't know how it is very difficult ... Good luck !

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macswoods
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Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Wilhoit, Arizona

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by macswoods » January 12th, 2014, 1:45 pm

One more question, with the 1/8 inch dia 7018 welding rod , what amperage would I need to use ? I have an AC welder that will go to 100 amps, is OK ??? :idea: Mac....

Bob C
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Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
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Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by Bob C » January 12th, 2014, 2:28 pm

If you only have 100 amps I think I would go with 3/32. Bevel the pieces a little then tack one
side then weld the other side to keep it from drawing to much.

Bob

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macswoods
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Model Year: 1929
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Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by macswoods » January 19th, 2014, 12:04 pm

When you say to weld a plate in the back side , do you mean in the inside of the U of the frame or like I would BOX a frame.
Mac..... :?:

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fordman88
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Model Year: 1929
Location: Salina, Kansas

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by fordman88 » January 19th, 2014, 10:05 pm

I'm pretty sure he is suggesting putting the reinforcing plate on the inside of the "U" so that it will be mostly hidden. So... after you are done welding up the frame, you will have to grind the inside of the weld flush so that the plate will fit nicely to the metal on both sides of the weld
Trevor O Davis

1929 AA boy
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Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1929
Location: Dickinson, North Dakota

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by 1929 AA boy » January 20th, 2014, 9:02 am

fordman88 wrote:I'm pretty sure he is suggesting putting the reinforcing plate on the inside of the "U" so that it will be mostly hidden. So... after you are done welding up the frame, you will have to grind the inside of the weld flush so that the plate will fit nicely to the metal on both sides of the weld
Exactly

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spectria
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Body Type: Mail Truck, Stakebed
Model Year: 1931
Location: Quincy, Ca.

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by spectria » January 20th, 2014, 2:49 pm

1929 AA boy, Is the diamond shape just easier to fit, weld, style or strength?

I would have used a rectangle, but I want your reasons...
Dave
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Stakebed
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Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by Stakebed » January 20th, 2014, 3:10 pm

i think the diamond shape adds strength while allowing the frame to twist and flex some as they normally would do.

if its rectangles i would think it would not allow it to flex or eventually pop the weld/crack somewhere else.

1929 AA boy
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Joined: January 17th, 2011, 8:11 pm
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Model Year: 1929
Location: Dickinson, North Dakota

Re: FRAME REPAIR

Post by 1929 AA boy » January 20th, 2014, 6:23 pm

spectria wrote:1929 AA boy, Is the diamond shape just easier to fit, weld, style or strength?

I would have used a rectangle, but I want your reasons...
Dave
Steakbed is right it's just rigid enough to reenforce the weld but not so rigid as to not allow flex .. And by diamond I mean a square turned a quarter turn that way you are not welding parallel to your other weld ... Therefore the flexing won't stress any one side excessively ... Sorry guys I went from being a body guy to a rig welder ... If I'm too confusing that's why haha

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