aa-fords.com

Ive heard you can cold blue things like brake rollers and pins and such that just arent practical to paint.

Does anyone know of a kit or some other way to prevent the pins and rollers from rusting up(and springs i suppose)?

Or what have you guys done?

You could look into bluing kits for gun parts, I don't know how long it would last though.

Red

You might try this place. http://www.caswellplating.com/

Bob

If you are specifically interested in keepingt he inside workings of the brake mechanisms from rusting just giving the parts a rub down with a rag that has some grease saturated into it. A small sheen of grease on these parts should last a long time in keeping things rust free. That is unless you are doing some serious all weather driving and getting the insides of your brake drums soaked on a regular basis.
Now for other stuff that I want to keep rust and tarnish free that are not painted like head studs and nuts, bodys of spark plugs, all the brass parts on my carburator etc... I use Penitrol straight out of the can. Penitrol is a paint additive that makes paint flow better when using a brush or sponge. It is also is listed on the label as a being a metal protectant. Several of my hit and miss engines have the faces of the flywheels bare steel with no paint at all and the Penitrol has kept them rust free for many years now. You can get it at any hardware store.
Dave

From time to time I have used a compound generically known as "rust converter" available in many auto parts stores. It is intended to chemically convert rust into a stable condition, at the same time leaving a black coating where it is applied. Normally it is intended to be used before priming and painting surfaces that have rusted. Several years ago I coated part of the frame of an iron welding bench that stands outside my barn, and the surface remained black and rust-free for over four years with no additional coating of any kind. It might be worth a try for the purpose you have in mind.

Cold gun blue will color metal (even non-ferrous metals) but it offers no rust protection or barrier. It has to be coated with oil or some other protective coating. In fact, if not coated it will hasten rust on iron and steel.

John Losch

Parkerizing is the way to go. You can buy Parkerizing chemicals on eBay. It is good for all of your hardware.

1crosscut wrote:If you are specifically interested in keepingt he inside workings of the brake mechanisms from rusting just giving the parts a rub down with a rag that has some grease saturated into it. A small sheen of grease on these parts should last a long time in keeping things rust free. That is unless you are doing some serious all weather driving and getting the insides of your brake drums soaked on a regular basis.
Now for other stuff that I want to keep rust and tarnish free that are not painted like head studs and nuts, bodys of spark plugs, all the brass parts on my carburator etc... I use Penitrol straight out of the can. Penitrol is a paint additive that makes paint flow better when using a brush or sponge. It is also is listed on the label as a being a metal protectant. Several of my hit and miss engines have the faces of the flywheels bare steel with no paint at all and the Penitrol has kept them rust free for many years now. You can get it at any hardware store.
Dave

yea i was considering putting a light coat of grease and or antisieze on parts. i dont plan to drive in the rain or snow or deep water.

Stakebed wrote: yea i was considering putting a light coat of grease and or anti seize on parts. i dont plan to drive in the rain or snow or deep water.

I've used anti-seize on backing plates, for linkage, adjusters, bolts and hardware in all makes of braking system for years (thousands of vehicles). The only down side is it dries up and won't prevent rust or corrosion, it just leaves a graphite coating. It will make it easier to tear down but it won't keep things pretty.
Grease and Penitrol are effective too...

Parkerizing is something you can do yourself, very effective and looks good.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing

Stakebed,
Follow Crosscuts suggestion, and also use the white Lithium grease on all metal to metal parts, it as been used for many years in the auto industry in this application, ------ and if you really want to keep things rust free you could pump lots of grease thru the brake cam zerk fitting, ---- as Ford admitted a bad idea which was also discontinued along with the hub bearing zerk a few years later.

BrianT wrote:Stakebed,
Follow Crosscuts suggestion, and also use the white Lithium grease on all metal to metal parts, it as been used for many years in the auto industry in this application, ------ and if you really want to keep things rust free you could pump lots of grease thru the brake cam zerk fitting, ---- as Ford admitted a bad idea which was also discontinued along with the hub bearing zerk a few years later.

yea that cam zerk is an awful idea.... it would only grease like the top half of half the bushing haha.

Stakebed wrote:

BrianT wrote:Stakebed,
Follow Crosscuts suggestion, and also use the white Lithium grease on all metal to metal parts, it as been used for many years in the auto industry in this application, ------ and if you really want to keep things rust free you could pump lots of grease thru the brake cam zerk fitting, ---- as Ford admitted a bad idea which was also discontinued along with the hub bearing zerk a few years later.

yea that cam zerk is an awful idea.... it would only grease like the top half of half the bushing haha.

Stakebed
That's not the worst part, -- although most of them are plugged up anyway causing no harm -- can you imagine in the day some person pumping grease waiting for it to come out somewhere.