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Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 1st, 2015, 4:33 pm
by KimVanOrder
Has anyone considered trying to put disk breaks inside of a drum break? If the disk was fastened to the drum innner face on its outer edge and the calipers was mounted to run on the inside of the disk "hole in the center".
It would be a packaging problem, but there are some very small calipers that are mechanically opperated.

Much better breaking that would be totally hidden.

Food for thought..

KVO

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 1st, 2015, 6:36 pm
by Stakebed
i dunno, an unloaded AA with properly working stock brakes should put your face into the windshield due to the shear size of them and brake pad contact. Not to mention the top speed is like 45mph. a caliper small enough to fit would get overheated very fast as there would be zero ventilation.

If anything is needed is possibly an air assist on the brake system to make it easier for the weaker legged to really stomp on the pedal.

For grins here is a few pics comparing the rear brake shoe of my 29 aa VS a rear brake pad off my 2002 chevy blazer

Image
Image

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 2nd, 2015, 7:47 pm
by John Losch
When I was in an accident a year ago with my 30 AA the truck was empty, and those 14 " drum brakes locked up the wheels at 35 MPH. We left skid marks in the road. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Re: Hidden disk BRAKES?

Posted: September 2nd, 2015, 10:18 pm
by spectria
KimVanOrder wrote:Has anyone considered trying to put disk brakes inside of a drum brake? If the disk was fastened to the drum inner face on its outer edge and the calipers was mounted to run on the inside of the disk "hole in the center".
It would be a packaging problem, but there are some very small calipers that are mechanically operated.

Much better braking that would be totally hidden.

Food for thought..

KVO
If I had the time and money; that or hidden hydraulic brakes would be a fun project, but alas...

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 3rd, 2015, 4:31 pm
by KimVanOrder
OK ! I'm reading between the lines here. I Need to redo the stock breaks. Mine do not lock up. Lucky I can't go very fast.

So when they say "Re Arching the pads" just how is that done? Do you sand down the break lining to the the correct radius, or bend the steel under it to the correct shape? and if so what with?

KVO

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 3rd, 2015, 11:29 pm
by spectria
KimVanOrder wrote:OK ! I'm reading between the lines here. I Need to redo the stock breaks. Mine do not lock up. Lucky I can't go very fast.

So when they say "Re Arching the pads" just how is that done? Do you sand down the break lining to the the correct radius, or bend the steel under it to the correct shape? and if so what with?

KVO
Kim, I hope you are OK with a small correction. It's Brakes, not breaks.
You would never arc the woven shoe lining, the other could be. Reshaping the shoe is extremely difficult and not done routinely. An arcing attachment was very common on Brake Grinders like AAMCO. The shoes and drums are so large that reshaping the arc is probably not necessary. JMHO.

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 4th, 2015, 4:13 am
by tiredtruckrestorer
If you want good brakes, you should always fit the brake shoes to the drum. Just lay the brake shoe with lining in the drum and see where the lining hits the drum. Often the lining has to be ground down at spots to get a full contact area, whether the woven or the hard lining. I'm even grinding my drums to get a nice round surface for the shoes to operate in. The stock brakes work well if they are set up right.

Keith

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 4th, 2015, 3:47 pm
by Stakebed
there are alot of wear points on these brakes that if not corrected even with 100% shoe to drum contact will still have poor brakes. Mostly the rollers, and the usually worn backing plates.

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 4th, 2015, 6:00 pm
by KimVanOrder
I'm OK with being corrected. Happens alot in my life.

So 'fitting' the shoes to fit the drum is the key. One of you mentioned not cutting the pad itself, another says to sand it to shape. I can see where cutting into the woven pad could cause problems. Unraveling. So if the drum has been turned, enlarged I.D. then the Linings would have to increase in size also to match. I quess what I'm looking for is advice on the best way to do this. Build up the shoe, machine to size then add the lining back? Or do you 'bend' the shoe to this new radius. (Dosn't sound good).

Suggestions? Approved process?

KVO

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 4th, 2015, 7:04 pm
by Chris Haynes
Using 1932 cast iron drums with the corresponding shoes is a major upgrade.

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 4th, 2015, 10:35 pm
by dhetch
Chris, if memory serves me Kim has a 28 or possibly a 29. Will BB drums fit and work on the worm gear hubs? Most of the 28's without separate parking brakes had much narrower drums than the BB.
I should also mention that many of these old brake and clutch linings are still asbestos and should not be ground down without the proper equipment. Even though I used to work on them and grind them down 40 to 50 years ago, I do not believe it is a safe home shop project today. Try to find a brake supplier that has the proper equipment to do it safely and correctly. In order to do this, they will need both your drums and shoes. If you can't find one in your area, Brake & Equipment Warehouse is in Minneapolis and the last time I checked, could still do them. Or if you are buying relined shoes, that supplier should have the ability to arc them to your drums.
Dave

Re: Hidden disk breaks?

Posted: September 4th, 2015, 11:09 pm
by Chris Haynes
dhetch wrote:Chris, if memory serves me Kim has a 28 or possibly a 29. Dave
No, But they fit on my Early 30 real nice.