Rusty metal treatment

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
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s147881
Posts: 425
Joined: April 13th, 2007, 8:09 pm
Body Type: stake bed 82A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Decatur Michigan

Rusty metal treatment

Post by s147881 »

I have decided to leave the truck I am working on all original. I plan on going thru the brakes engine and tranny but want to just cleanup loose rust and apply something to protect it. Not much paint left on this one but you can still read stencil ing on doors and box. Has anyone done this? What did you use to treat the cleaned up rusty metal?
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lookin-backtexas
Posts: 118
Joined: August 23rd, 2012, 4:12 pm
Body Type: Stakebed
Model Year: 1931

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by lookin-backtexas »

I've heard lots of good things about Owatrol. It's available from Amazon.com - here's a link that describes what it does and the price: http://www.amazon.com/Owatrol-733-Oil-1 ... marine+oil
If you are not driving your AA truck you might as well be collecting clocks!
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1crosscut
Posts: 877
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by 1crosscut »

If your looking to do something like I did with mine I can help out.
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Dave
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macswoods
Posts: 313
Joined: May 4th, 2009, 1:20 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Wilhoit, Arizona

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by macswoods »

yes,cleaned up steel wool or light wire wheel, and wax it. you can accent it with some flat paint or use the plastic bag treatment.
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s147881
Posts: 425
Joined: April 13th, 2007, 8:09 pm
Body Type: stake bed 82A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Decatur Michigan

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by s147881 »

Yes - that is exactly what I was looking at doing.
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1crosscut
Posts: 877
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by 1crosscut »

Okay. If you like send me a p.m. with your phone number and I'd be more than happy to explain how I went about it.
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Dave
ModelAkid
Posts: 478
Joined: June 3rd, 2013, 6:15 pm
Body Type: 186-B stake
Model Year: 1931
Location: LHC Arizona & UP Michigan

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by ModelAkid »

mac, what is a "plastic bag treatment"? That's a new one on me.
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wv model AA
Posts: 71
Joined: April 16th, 2013, 9:24 am
Body Type: Dump truck
Model Year: 1931
Location: Shepherdstown, WV

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by wv model AA »

Guys, I'm just impressed looking at these pictures, leaving the trucks with the patina while keeping them mechanically sound.

Keep up the good work.
West Virginia Model AA

"Hold My Beer and Watch This..."
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macswoods
Posts: 313
Joined: May 4th, 2009, 1:20 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Wilhoit, Arizona

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by macswoods »

Well, this was my wife's (the Crosley driver) idea. When I restored the cab, I had to weld in lower door patches and new panels under the gas tank.These didn't match the patina of the rest of the cab. While prepping the metal, before waxing, I used many flat colors to "blend" the repairs in.
I also added some other patina to the finish. The process uses a crumpled up grocery bag and spray paint. You crumple up the bag and spray the paint on it and then splotch it on the part needing patina'd ,making new look old. Wish I could do it Backwards for me. Then I put on some paste wax. I left
in a few small dents and some nice old era hammer welds on the finders. Gives it that experienced look, of the Hard life the truck had before I rescued it.
Mac.......
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gearling
Posts: 61
Joined: October 30th, 2015, 6:59 am
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1929

Re: Rusty metal treatment

Post by gearling »

Excellent stuff here. I like real work truck look too. A technique that has worked well for me in the past is to mix transmission fluid and dish soap in warm water and use a fine scotchbrite pad to scrub it down then polish it with a dry cloth, removing the chalky oxidation and leaving a matte sheen. The oil helps to stabilize the rust and paint without sealing moisture into the pores of the rusted steel, and it is pretty low cost and low maintenance. The bag trick gets really nice results, but especially on larger areas it is easy to fall into a repeating pattern. I have seen lots of nice work that looks too uniform to appear natural. I think deliberately and randomly mixing it up a bit helps achieve a more believable look.
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