Part # or Plug?

[1930AADUMP]

Is there a known part or just a generic freeze plug? Trying to get a handle on some small leaks.

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[1930AADUMP]

I will measure the opening and see if I can find a generic freeze plug. Anyone have any other ideas to stop the bleeding?

[macswoods]

Problem with freez or other type of plug, is that some of the shafts come out of the opens in the shift tower. May be you should put thru the gears
and measure it,then make a cover to be RTVed on over the shafts. I have done this on the transmission main shafts in the case. Of course the
true fix to your leak is new shift shafts., BUT there is always a fix ,if your truck is not a show truck. Just my view to get that truck on the road.

[Chris Haynes]

It you know a good guy who can run a milling machine you can fit the shafts with O Rings.

[1930AADUMP]

The truck is a survivor truck so no worries on making it "right". I am changing out the transmission oil and the rear end oil. I have had the leaks all summer but they are not excessive. No trails of oil. Figured it was time to check levels and change out.

There is a slapping noise of some kind on deceleration when you take your foot off the gas going downhill. Sure sounds like it is coming from the transmission. The oil looked clean of any metals when drained.

Paul

[ModelAkid]

There are stethoscopes made for mechanics so you can localize where a noise is coming from. Your slapping noise could be a number of things.

[1930AADUMP]

I have drained the transmission and cleaned out the area around the shifter. It is quite possible that these leaks have been there for some time. I have only had the truck about a year now and have not driven it much more than 50 miles. It runs good and shifts well without any obvious problems. Perhaps the oil in the transmission was of a lighter weight or filled from the top. I had never taken the floor boards off until now. Just not a lot of time to investigate and play sort to speak. When I have the time to drive the truck early and the roads are quiet, it is my time machine. Just a pleasure to drive.

I will continue to monitor the noise but will wait and see if the change in oil makes any difference at all. It did seem like there was less oil than ideal when drained but I am not certain.

[Stakebed]

Completely off topic but what rims and tires are you using???

[tiredtruckrestorer]

I'd remove the bolts and slide the front coupling shaft cover back to inspect the coupling shaft to transmission output shaft gear connection (shown in your bottom picture). Often these get very worn out and can cause the backlash you feel. If it completely fails, it could leave you sitting along the road one day. I've taken some of these apart that look very scary. To completely remove the shaft to replace it though, the rear end has to be moved back to get the coupling shaft out.

Keith

[1930AADUMP]

Keith; not sure what you mean by "backlash". That kind of a project will have to wait. Just do not have the time. The noise occurs only when the engine slows the truck on a slow decent going downhill.

Stakebed; the tires and wheels that came with the truck. The fronts are Goodyear 6.5x20 and rears Hercules HDTL 7.5X20.

I am still quite a novice and have a lot to learn. Time is not my own but I hope to have this truck when that scenario changes alowing me to dive in. In the mean time, I will make the best of circumstances.

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Paul

[tiredtruckrestorer]

It's not a big job to remove the six bolts that hold the coupling shaft outer cover to the back of the transmission, and then slide the cover back. The coupling shaft has a female cup with teeth on the inside. The transmission output shaft has a male gear on it that has teeth on the outside. These slip together and is used instead of a universal joint behind the four-speed transmissions. The "backlash" is the play between the two gears. Like I said it is not a big job to check it, but it is a big job to replace it.

Keith

[macswoods]

if you can find the parts. They are not reproduced, If they were many of us would buy a set. Mac...

[RustydoubleA]

Hi, 1932 BB and later shift towers have longer shift rail bosses with plugs in the ends. One picture is of a BB tower, the other is a picture of a 1947 Ford shift tower (which does not have the reverse lockout lever). Using 1932 and later towers will fix one set of leaks. Steve.

[1930AADUMP]

Thanks for all the replies. A change is oil seems to have helped. I placed an 1.25" freeze plug in the first leak on the pto. Fits well and solves that one. The shift tower is at the moment not leaking. I purchased some 600w gear oil in MA at a Model A outfit. So far so good. Have taken the truck out twice and have had no leaks from those areas thus far.

Thanks Keith. Probably worth the effort to explore but will likely wait until spring or summer. In the mean time, I will continue to monitor the noise. Overall it is relatively quiet and shifts without issue. Just the downhill noise with engine breaking.

Paul