Rear end removal process

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
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KimVanOrder
Posts: 753
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Rear end removal process

Post by KimVanOrder »

Just a quick clarification please. When I go to remove the rear axle on my '28, ( Putting in High speed worm and ring ).
I have to take the torque tube loose at the front, by the transmission, correct? No way to get it loose from the rear end because the driveshaft is pined to the worm, Correct?
So I Drop the axle, and driveshaft, then remove the universal joint, then tube? Then pin and separate shaft from worm? Do I have that correct? What did I miss?? Thanks for any advice.
KVO
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
User avatar
1crosscut
Posts: 877
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by 1crosscut »

Been a while since I've done one but you pretty much have it. You will have to pull out a snap ring holding the speedometer drive gear assembly before the torque tube will slide forward to expose the pin holding the drive shaft to the rear end. Then you will most likely have to grind one end of a pin off so you can drive it out. Remove the pin that has the most clearance around it inside the torque tube so when you re-install the replacement pin you have enough room as the replacement is a little longer.
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Dave
Stakebed
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by Stakebed »

Here it is laid out:

To replace worm and ring:

Disconnect speedometer cable

Disconnect brake rods (easiest at cross shafts)

Remove the clam-shell bolts holding the front of the torque tube onto the 2nd to last crossmember.

The u joint stays attached to dual high or NOT the rearend.

Remove the 2 clamshell pieces from around the rear springs to axle.

Jack up frame and roll rearend out.

Get it to where you want it then jack it up and use 3 jackstands to hold everything.

Then remove wheels etc...

yes once you slide the torque tube off (remove big radius rod bolt first) the driveshaft will be pinned onto the coupler and the coupler pinned to the worm.

GRIND OFF AND PUNCH OUT PIN FROM COUPLER TO WORM END.

Be sure to take lots of pictures and tag and bag everything. get a box of cotter pins as you will need alot of em.

Be ready with a drain pan when you crack the halves.


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Bob C
Posts: 1442
Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
Location: SO CAL

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by Bob C »

I think you also need to remove the speedometer driven gear.

Bob
Last edited by Bob C on October 1st, 2016, 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Stakebed
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by Stakebed »

yea probably would be best to - just one big wrench on it unscrews the housing for it.
KimVanOrder
Posts: 753
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by KimVanOrder »

Thanks guys. KVO
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
User avatar
1crosscut
Posts: 877
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by 1crosscut »

Gee Stakebed. Seems like you may have just done this :)
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Dave
Stakebed
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by Stakebed »

darn near 2.5 times haha.

PLEASE do not hurt yourself - these parts are heavy and odd shaped and once you take off a half it becomes very lopsided heavy so have plenty of jackstands and plenty of helpers.

Wear gloves and old clothes because that oil will get everywhere and ruin whatever it gets on haha.

Oh when you reassemble ith a new gasket set you will need a bowl of hot water to soak the gaskets in as they seemed to have shrunk and bolt holes dont line up... I RTV'ed the crap outa mine and it hasnt leaked a drop.

Its also a very good idea to inspect and replace regardless the axle seals and driveshaft seal - if they leak a week later guess what has to get torn apart again?
KimVanOrder
Posts: 753
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: Rear end removal process

Post by KimVanOrder »

Thanks for the advice. (again). BTW?? Is there a story behind the 2.5 times? 2 I understand, .5 could mean several things. :shock:

KVO
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
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