Just a quick clarification please. When I go to remove the rear axle on my '28, ( Putting in High speed worm and ring ).
I have to take the torque tube loose at the front, by the transmission, correct? No way to get it loose from the rear end because the driveshaft is pined to the worm, Correct?
So I Drop the axle, and driveshaft, then remove the universal joint, then tube? Then pin and separate shaft from worm? Do I have that correct? What did I miss?? Thanks for any advice.
KVO
Rear end removal process
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- Model Year: 1928
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Rear end removal process
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
Dec. '28 AA
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- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Lincoln, NE
Re: Rear end removal process
Been a while since I've done one but you pretty much have it. You will have to pull out a snap ring holding the speedometer drive gear assembly before the torque tube will slide forward to expose the pin holding the drive shaft to the rear end. Then you will most likely have to grind one end of a pin off so you can drive it out. Remove the pin that has the most clearance around it inside the torque tube so when you re-install the replacement pin you have enough room as the replacement is a little longer.
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Dave
Dave
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- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Illinois
Re: Rear end removal process
Here it is laid out:
To replace worm and ring:
Disconnect speedometer cable
Disconnect brake rods (easiest at cross shafts)
Remove the clam-shell bolts holding the front of the torque tube onto the 2nd to last crossmember.
The u joint stays attached to dual high or NOT the rearend.
Remove the 2 clamshell pieces from around the rear springs to axle.
Jack up frame and roll rearend out.
Get it to where you want it then jack it up and use 3 jackstands to hold everything.
Then remove wheels etc...
yes once you slide the torque tube off (remove big radius rod bolt first) the driveshaft will be pinned onto the coupler and the coupler pinned to the worm.
GRIND OFF AND PUNCH OUT PIN FROM COUPLER TO WORM END.
Be sure to take lots of pictures and tag and bag everything. get a box of cotter pins as you will need alot of em.
Be ready with a drain pan when you crack the halves.
To replace worm and ring:
Disconnect speedometer cable
Disconnect brake rods (easiest at cross shafts)
Remove the clam-shell bolts holding the front of the torque tube onto the 2nd to last crossmember.
The u joint stays attached to dual high or NOT the rearend.
Remove the 2 clamshell pieces from around the rear springs to axle.
Jack up frame and roll rearend out.
Get it to where you want it then jack it up and use 3 jackstands to hold everything.
Then remove wheels etc...
yes once you slide the torque tube off (remove big radius rod bolt first) the driveshaft will be pinned onto the coupler and the coupler pinned to the worm.
GRIND OFF AND PUNCH OUT PIN FROM COUPLER TO WORM END.
Be sure to take lots of pictures and tag and bag everything. get a box of cotter pins as you will need alot of em.
Be ready with a drain pan when you crack the halves.
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- Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: SO CAL
Re: Rear end removal process
I think you also need to remove the speedometer driven gear.
Bob
Bob
Last edited by Bob C on October 1st, 2016, 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
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- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Illinois
Re: Rear end removal process
yea probably would be best to - just one big wrench on it unscrews the housing for it.
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- Posts: 753
- Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
- Body Type: 82-A Platform
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Hamilton, Mich.
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- Posts: 1223
- Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
- Body Type: Grainbox
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Illinois
Re: Rear end removal process
darn near 2.5 times haha.
PLEASE do not hurt yourself - these parts are heavy and odd shaped and once you take off a half it becomes very lopsided heavy so have plenty of jackstands and plenty of helpers.
Wear gloves and old clothes because that oil will get everywhere and ruin whatever it gets on haha.
Oh when you reassemble ith a new gasket set you will need a bowl of hot water to soak the gaskets in as they seemed to have shrunk and bolt holes dont line up... I RTV'ed the crap outa mine and it hasnt leaked a drop.
Its also a very good idea to inspect and replace regardless the axle seals and driveshaft seal - if they leak a week later guess what has to get torn apart again?
PLEASE do not hurt yourself - these parts are heavy and odd shaped and once you take off a half it becomes very lopsided heavy so have plenty of jackstands and plenty of helpers.
Wear gloves and old clothes because that oil will get everywhere and ruin whatever it gets on haha.
Oh when you reassemble ith a new gasket set you will need a bowl of hot water to soak the gaskets in as they seemed to have shrunk and bolt holes dont line up... I RTV'ed the crap outa mine and it hasnt leaked a drop.
Its also a very good idea to inspect and replace regardless the axle seals and driveshaft seal - if they leak a week later guess what has to get torn apart again?
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- Posts: 753
- Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
- Body Type: 82-A Platform
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Hamilton, Mich.
Re: Rear end removal process
Thanks for the advice. (again). BTW?? Is there a story behind the 2.5 times? 2 I understand, .5 could mean several things.
KVO
KVO
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
Dec. '28 AA