Newbie AA

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
pinesdune
Posts: 30
Joined: November 4th, 2016, 5:18 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Newbie AA

Post by pinesdune » November 19th, 2016, 6:04 am

Downunder Rob wrote:AAC trucks are not that difficult to put back together if you find the time.
Timken diffs were manufactured by Timken Bearings.
the Australian and Canadian service bulletins do have some information on the differentials.
it is not correct that all timken diffs were open tail shafts.
the differentials from late 1930 till end of production were in fact closed.
the easiest way to tell is if it has a torque arm coming of the diff housing. the later differentials had radius rods like the car and US AA's.
there were numerous wheel from discs, wooden and dual spiders used on AAC trucks.

if you need more assistance please contact me and i will be glad to assist.

I found the timken diff set-up procedure in my old Dykes manual, also I ordered a copy of the AA truck supplement by Jim Schild and "the restorer" with the section on trucks, so I have some reading to do.

I got her all home, an inventory shows lots of the little stuff is gone or wrong (bolts, screws, some trim, pop out ect.) but I'll track down what I need.

I'll post updates on how she progresses if anyone is interested. Hope everyone has a great weekend

SHELBY MESSER
Posts: 730
Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
Body Type: 75-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Sacramento, Ca.

Re: Newbie AA

Post by SHELBY MESSER » November 19th, 2016, 10:32 am

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Pinesdune, The cab above without the gas tank is a mixed breed or a mutt. The cowl is a standard model 'A' '28-'29 or e'30 probable 28-29 tudor sedan cowl, well put together to a back section of a '28-'29 tudor sedan, to make it into a pickup or truck cab. The tudor was cut off behind the door and the quarter panel and window was cut out and the rear section was moved forward and welled back together at the door post. A lot of this was done back in the great depression back in the 30's and 40's. I have a l'30 or E '31 done the same way. If I can find a picture of it I'll post it. :) :D :roll: Shelby, Sacramento

Found 2 pictures but can not back for enough to post now :( :( :oops:
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Last edited by SHELBY MESSER on November 30th, 2016, 9:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.

SHELBY MESSER
Posts: 730
Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
Body Type: 75-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Sacramento, Ca.

Re: Newbie AA

Post by SHELBY MESSER » November 25th, 2016, 5:14 pm

This is a couple more shot of the L-30-31 AA truck cab build during the "Great Depression" from a L-30-31 tudor sedan :D :!: Shelby, Sacramento
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Last edited by SHELBY MESSER on November 30th, 2016, 9:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

pinesdune
Posts: 30
Joined: November 4th, 2016, 5:18 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Newbie AA

Post by pinesdune » November 25th, 2016, 7:37 pm

SHELBY MESSER wrote:This is a couple more shot of the L-30-31 AA truck cab build during the "Great Depression" from a L-30-31 tudor sedan :D :!: Shelby, Sacramento
DSCN0412.JPG
DSCN0411.JPG
DSCN0411.JPG

Thanks for the pics, I'll compare pictures to my cab in the next couple days but it does look like what's been done to mine


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Stakebed
Posts: 1063
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Newbie AA

Post by Stakebed » November 28th, 2016, 10:10 am

FYI was probably done sometime before/during WW2 as pickups could get more fuel rations as it was believed if you owned a truck that was your livelyhood - either it haul grain/cattle, deliveries, or repair business.

Its not like today where suburbia USA every other house owns a truck. The reason you still to this day cannot drive down Lake Shore Drive in Chicago with truck plates (meaning any pickups (not talking delivery trucks - your standard F150, ranger, s10, silverado etc) and any SUV/an that has truck plates) can be ticketed was to keep the poor working class out of high society areas/neighborhoods. Several streets/whole neighborhoods in Chicago today you cannot park a truck or any vehicle with truck plates overnight in for the same reason as above - they can be parked in a closed garage but cannot be seen. That started ages ago when cars first were invented/mass produced to keep the immigrants/poor people out of sight. Why it continues today and hasn't been repealed? Probably same reasons unfortunately and a quick money grab as its cut and dry if you broke the law or not.

pinesdune
Posts: 30
Joined: November 4th, 2016, 5:18 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Newbie AA

Post by pinesdune » December 9th, 2016, 5:59 am

Hi guys, I'm starting to figure out the diff. A couple questions, does anyone know if there's a ring and pinion assembly available for this application? I've got two sets but one has broke teeth and the other (tho usable) is getting enough wear on the drive side. The ring gear measure 11 1/2" across, 8" centres on the bolts and has a ratio of 34-5 tooth count, and has a stamping number "H1061A" also "Republic"

The ratio isn't as big a concern as finding one that fits.

Also the Hyatt bearing used on the rear side of the diff to steady the pinion is part number 7203 with an external race "OR406". I doubt that will change up or be a serviceable bearing outside of NOS, just wondering about using a high speed ball bearing instead and thoughts?
I cross posted this on the Ford barn and one gentleman gave me the Ford part numbers of " The gear is part # AAC 100164 and the pinion is AAC 100166"

Anyone have a nos one lying on the shelf


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Stakebed
Posts: 1063
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Newbie AA

Post by Stakebed » December 9th, 2016, 10:54 am

http://www.skf.com/group/products/beari ... 7203%20BEP

thats your Hyatt 7203

I would find a local bearing supplier/industrial supplier and bring the old bearings and any numbers you come across. Should be able to find them. That OR406 keeps popping up as a set of bearings meaning race and bearing itself as a kit.

Maybe give timken a call? Never know what they can dig out of archives. Maybe find an old truck repair shop - my local one has a catalog from 1934 showing what size brake linings model AA's used and proper rivets.

Another source is call berts in denver or snyders - you probably arent the first to go looking for those bearings.

Bob C
Posts: 1072
Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
Location: SO CAL

Re: Newbie AA

Post by Bob C » December 9th, 2016, 2:13 pm

Can you post a picture of the bearing and some dimensions? On Hyatt bearings 7203 is probably the ring number.
Is the ring on the end of the rollers 1 3/16 ID and 2 1/16 OD with nine 1/2" diameter rollers? A possible bearing number is
SRA404 It's 1 1/8" ID and 1 5/64" long.

Bob

pinesdune
Posts: 30
Joined: November 4th, 2016, 5:18 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Newbie AA

Post by pinesdune » December 9th, 2016, 4:39 pm

Thanks stakebed, I have a local bearing dealer sourcing the tapered bearings, they look like an easy (tho enough $) fix. Berts and Snyders don't know much about this one. Neither does George Moir's.

Bob, yes, the Hyatt is a 9 roller with the ring being the dimensions (or darn close) to those you state Image

Where the external race fits is about 2.44" outside
Image
and the internal is about .9"
Image


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Bob C
Posts: 1072
Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
Location: SO CAL

Re: Newbie AA

Post by Bob C » December 9th, 2016, 6:29 pm

What is the number of the outer race in your picture? In your post on Ford Barn you said OR406 but it looks like
a 3 instead of a 4 in your picture. If it is OR305 that Is Ford # AA4628 look on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/NDH-New-Departu ... SwpDdVHq57

Bob

pinesdune
Posts: 30
Joined: November 4th, 2016, 5:18 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Newbie AA

Post by pinesdune » December 10th, 2016, 6:37 am

Bob C wrote:What is the number of the outer race in your picture? In your post on Ford Barn you said OR406 but it looks like
a 3 instead of a 4 in your picture. If it is OR305 that Is Ford # AA4628 look on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/NDH-New-Departu ... SwpDdVHq57

Bob
Good eyes! I have it written correct on my list but typed it wrong on Ford barn (then just cut and pasted the post here) to repeat mistake) Yes, its OR305, thanks for the eBay link, the bearing you mentioned (SRA 404) should be the correct bearing for this then? And Thank you


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Bob C
Posts: 1072
Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
Location: SO CAL

Re: Newbie AA

Post by Bob C » December 10th, 2016, 8:29 am

I'm not sure about the 404 bearing. Are there any numbers on the inner race, or maybe the OD, ID and width of it.
I'm wondering if this is the same as the parts used on the USA 1930-31 Timken rear end.

Bob

pinesdune
Posts: 30
Joined: November 4th, 2016, 5:18 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Newbie AA

Post by pinesdune » December 11th, 2016, 2:52 pm

Bob C wrote:I'm not sure about the 404 bearing. Are there any numbers on the inner race, or maybe the OD, ID and width of it.
I'm wondering if this is the same as the parts used on the USA 1930-31 Timken rear end.

Bob
Hi Bob, I am a little hesitant to remove the inner race , there are no numbers I can see from the open end. But comparing the pinion shaft to the other diff (that I haven't completely tore down yet) I'd say this shaft had a custom bushing/race made up as the inner shaft looks chewed up and just eyeballing it, I'd say the race on the other diff looks different than this one. This pinion shaft race has a measurement of 1.11" ( where the bearing runs) and Image

.9" pinion shaft

And 1.1" wide (excluding end taper) Image

I'll break down the other diff tomorrow and see what else I can find out about the inner race on it.

Sorry for the slow reply, had a family weekend


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pinesdune
Posts: 30
Joined: November 4th, 2016, 5:18 pm
Model Year: 1930

Re: Newbie AA

Post by pinesdune » December 11th, 2016, 4:19 pm

The other pinion race is the same measurement but the bearing is held on in a way I've not encountered. That explains the "exploded look" of the other one. The race was pushed on, followed by a malleable ring then the whole thing was mushroomed together
Image
Image

Shaft diameter is 3/4" on the money on the second shaft

Image
Image

Just a couple pics to compare units

It's the same Hyatt number on the ring of the bearing itself


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Stakebed
Posts: 1063
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Newbie AA

Post by Stakebed » December 12th, 2016, 6:13 am

Well depending on what you do - the quick way of removing the race is to run a weld bead around the bearing surface (obviously ruins the bearing race) and as it cools it shrinks the race and should pop out easily. I had to run 2 weld beads around mine for my worm drive but after it cooled it came right out by my fingers. (tried a slide hammer first but wouldnt budge) There will be numbers on the backside of the race once its out.

yea the bearings arent cheap but the way I see it replace them now and you wont nor your children have to worry about them. I think I paid over $200 for the 28/29 worm drive bearings and races BUT they will outlast me by a long shot as long as you dont let the oil run out.

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