Front End Rebuild
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Front End Rebuild
The first Project i'm doing on My AA is a front end rebuild.
I have a few questions -
Kingpins - mine don't look too bad, one didn't have any play and the other had about a 1/16th inch of play. Whats the general consensus on replacing these when they don't look too bad? Is anyone making these for late 30/31?
Backing plates - the piece on the bottom that opens the shoes and is pushed by the rod that goes through the kingpin. These are riveted to the backing plate so i left them on for sand blasting (i told them to take it easy on this area) any issues with this?
Tie Rod / Drag Links - is this stuff shared with the "A".
Brake Drums / Shoes - The brake shoes and drums look pretty decent, and move freely. Are most reusing these? Is it true that no one is making the 14 inch drums? Any recommendations for paint?
Spring Shackles - i got a shackle kit for an "A" rear spring. any issues with this?
Thanks for all the help!
Chris
I have a few questions -
Kingpins - mine don't look too bad, one didn't have any play and the other had about a 1/16th inch of play. Whats the general consensus on replacing these when they don't look too bad? Is anyone making these for late 30/31?
Backing plates - the piece on the bottom that opens the shoes and is pushed by the rod that goes through the kingpin. These are riveted to the backing plate so i left them on for sand blasting (i told them to take it easy on this area) any issues with this?
Tie Rod / Drag Links - is this stuff shared with the "A".
Brake Drums / Shoes - The brake shoes and drums look pretty decent, and move freely. Are most reusing these? Is it true that no one is making the 14 inch drums? Any recommendations for paint?
Spring Shackles - i got a shackle kit for an "A" rear spring. any issues with this?
Thanks for all the help!
Chris
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- Neil Wilson
- Posts: 3062
- Joined: February 5th, 2003, 9:42 pm
- Body Type: 82-A/89-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Boulder, CO
- Contact:
Re: Front End Rebuild
It will be helpful for you to get a Ford Parts Price List booklet to determine which parts on an AA chassis are A chassis parts. Some information about these booklets is at http://aafords.com/aa-information/#fppl. The Dec. 20, 1932 booklet is available at most vendors.
I am sure someone will respond to many of your questions. Also, rebuilding the AA front end is much like rebuilding the A front end. There is overhaul/rebuild information for the A chassis out there.
I am sure someone will respond to many of your questions. Also, rebuilding the AA front end is much like rebuilding the A front end. There is overhaul/rebuild information for the A chassis out there.
Regards, Neil Wilson
______________________________________
aafords.com@gmail.com - use this email for contact
https://aafords.com/
______________________________________
aafords.com@gmail.com - use this email for contact
https://aafords.com/
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- Posts: 1442
- Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
- Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: SO CAL
Re: Front End Rebuild
Chris Reed wrote:The first Project i'm doing on My AA is a front end rebuild.
I have a few questions -
Kingpins - mine don't look too bad, one didn't have any play and the other had about a 1/16th inch of play. Whats the general consensus on replacing these when they don't look too bad? Is anyone making these for late 30/31?
1/16" is to much play, you can find NOS or NORS ones on Ebay all the time. Have the new bushings honed not reamed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-1934-Ford- ... rq&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Origina ... ve&vxp=mtr
Backing plates - the piece on the bottom that opens the shoes and is pushed by the rod that goes through the kingpin. These are riveted to the backing plate so i left them on for sand blasting (i told them to take it easy on this area) any issues with this?
Just remove the nut from the stud and the operating wedge will come off. The only thing riveted is the roller track.
Tie Rod / Drag Links - is this stuff shared with the "A".
The drag link is same as A, the tie rod is different. the tie rod ends are the same as A
Brake Drums / Shoes - The brake shoes and drums look pretty decent, and move freely. Are most reusing these? Is it true that no one is making the 14 inch drums? Any recommendations for paint?
No new drums available, you need to mike them to check for wear.
Spring Shackles - i got a shackle kit for an "A" rear spring. any issues with this?
That's what I use.
Thanks for all the help!
Chris
- tiredtruckrestorer
- Posts: 338
- Joined: April 20th, 2003, 7:09 pm
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Orwigsburg, PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
Chris, make sure the brake shoe roller track that is riveted to the backing plate does not have any grooves worn in it. These should be replaced or welded up if they do. Also make sure the brake shoe roller pins do not have a flat spot worn on them. The head of the pins sit on the track and slide back and forth on them. Do not just use just generic pins as the heads are usually not the correct size. Buy the correct roller pins from Model A vendors. I've even seen guys installing the cotter pin end of the pins toward the backing plate side instead of facing the outer side. All the little details help make better brakes that shouldn't hang up.
Keith
Keith
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
Thanks! looks like this will be a good resource, i'll have to pick this up.Neil Wilson wrote:It will be helpful for you to get a Ford Parts Price List booklet to determine which parts on an AA chassis are A chassis parts. Some information about these booklets is at http://aafords.com/aa-information/#fppl. The Dec. 20, 1932 booklet is available at most vendors.
I am sure someone will respond to many of your questions. Also, rebuilding the AA front end is much like rebuilding the A front end. There is overhaul/rebuild information for the A chassis out there.
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
Thanks for all of the above help, its much appreciated. I picked up some good Kingpins on Fordbarn.
I'm currently cleaning up my front spindles. Is there any reason to attempt to remove the steering arms or should i just leave them bolted on and replace the cotter pins? The balls on the arms look to be round and not too worn.
Thanks,
Chris
I'm currently cleaning up my front spindles. Is there any reason to attempt to remove the steering arms or should i just leave them bolted on and replace the cotter pins? The balls on the arms look to be round and not too worn.
Thanks,
Chris
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- Posts: 753
- Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
- Body Type: 82-A Platform
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Hamilton, Mich.
Re: Front End Rebuild
I all ways remove everything I can. Remove, clean, inspect, repair, re-paint. Then you know it is done right!
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
Dec. '28 AA
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- Posts: 1442
- Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
- Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: SO CAL
Re: Front End Rebuild
I would remove the steering arms as there is a groove around the shank of the arm where it goes
through the spindle so the grease can get from the fitting to the king pin bushing. If the grease has
gotten hard you may have a hard time greasing the king pins.
through the spindle so the grease can get from the fitting to the king pin bushing. If the grease has
gotten hard you may have a hard time greasing the king pins.
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
I need some help with the spring perch nut, I messed one up trying to get the perches out. Are they the same as the "A" or different?
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
Sounds like a good idea. it will be easier to clean up that was too and the one nut needs to be replaced.Bob C wrote:I would remove the steering arms as there is a groove around the shank of the arm where it goes
through the spindle so the grease can get from the fitting to the king pin bushing. If the grease has
gotten hard you may have a hard time greasing the king pins.
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- Posts: 1223
- Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
- Body Type: Grainbox
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Illinois
Re: Front End Rebuild
hmm i cannot say... if you had a 28/29 with the car front axle then yes they are the same, not sure if that nut grew with the 30/31 axle or just the perch area did...Chris Reed wrote:I need some help with the spring perch nut, I messed one up trying to get the perches out. Are they the same as the "A" or different?
anyone have a parts book to look it up for him?
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
Thanks Stakebed - I might just order a few from Brattons, The're only a couple dollars.
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
I'm putting my front end back together and I would like to get some opinions on this 31AA front spring shackle/perch, do you think there is too much play here?
The spring and perch measure closer to 2 3/16 and the shackle measures closer to 2 5/16 leaving an 1/8 of play.
The shackle is a Rear 'A' spring shackle from Brattons.
The spring and perch measure closer to 2 3/16 and the shackle measures closer to 2 5/16 leaving an 1/8 of play.
The shackle is a Rear 'A' spring shackle from Brattons.
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 4:50 am
- Body Type: Dump
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: Dresher PA
Re: Front End Rebuild
Just wondering what you guys recommend for for steering arm nut torque? I was thinking 120 ft/lbs and then a little more to get the cotter pin to line up.
Thanks for any help.
Chris
Thanks for any help.
Chris
Re: Front End Rebuild
I'm not sure the exact size of the steering arm nut, but there's a torque chart on his website that should help, just remember the torque values change if you lube the threads prior to assembly or notChris Reed wrote:Just wondering what you guys recommend for for steering arm nut torque? I was thinking 120 ft/lbs and then a little more to get the cotter pin to line up.
Thanks for any help.
Chris
http://www.americanboltcorp.com/tech/techtorque.pdf
Gears, grease, and glory