I had an interesting problem crop up this weekend. I pulled both rear wheels and drums to inspect the brakes. They were not working properly, only to find that the inner seal on both drums were letting bearing grease pass through, onto the brake assembly. My guess is that the previous owner pumped too much grease through the grease fitting and it blew past the seal. There was a tremendous amount of grease in the bearing area. It also looks like he used the old seal, rather than find a new one. To my problem.... When I reassembled the wheels and hubs, the axle nut now pushes the hub cap off the wheel, where it did not before. ??? All I can think of is that an axle shim might be necessary, but on both wheels? Any insight?
Frank
Rear hub cap problem
-
- Posts: 1223
- Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
- Body Type: Grainbox
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Illinois
Re: Rear hub cap problem
Weird.. and it all fit before? Didnt rotate wheels with the front or anything did you? Maybe check all around your shop and make sure somethign didnt get left out...Are you using the axle seals under the nuts? (dont) as thats about the only way you can push the nut out farther. Did you wrap the cotter pin around the outside or over the end of the shaft making it stick out a hair farther?
Yea and as you learned dont use the grease zerk to lube the wheel bearings - just pack em by hand (they take about a 1 lb can of grease if they are 100% clean - I like to use Mystic JT6 wheel bearing grease - pink stuff extra stringy and clingy - same price as any other grease and I find it at BigR and Tractor Supply stores (farm stores). Comes in 1 lb can form and tube form.
Yea and as you learned dont use the grease zerk to lube the wheel bearings - just pack em by hand (they take about a 1 lb can of grease if they are 100% clean - I like to use Mystic JT6 wheel bearing grease - pink stuff extra stringy and clingy - same price as any other grease and I find it at BigR and Tractor Supply stores (farm stores). Comes in 1 lb can form and tube form.
- emf
- Posts: 115
- Joined: March 21st, 2016, 5:21 am
- Body Type: Firetruck
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Hudson, NY
Re: Rear hub cap problem
Yea, I put all the parts back in. Had no parts left over... Why not use the axle seals?? Order of parts are axle seal, washer, nut (from inside to outside)..
Frank
Frank
-
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
- Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
- Model Year: 1931
- Location: SO CAL
Re: Rear hub cap problem
Is the axle nut at least flush with the end of the axle??
Bob
Bob
- emf
- Posts: 115
- Joined: March 21st, 2016, 5:21 am
- Body Type: Firetruck
- Model Year: 1928
- Location: Hudson, NY
Re: Rear hub cap problem
The axle nut is flush with the end of the axle. Discussions with another member may have revealed the problem. He suggested that the wheels may have been over torqued causing the problem. Not sure at this time what the cause is, but I'll continue to investigate. Maybe later this week I'll swap wheels front to back...
Frank
Frank