aa-fords.com

http://s737.photobucket.com/user/1929oldlady/library/ this has pcs. so you can look and see what thing look like.

Gun metal, looking at the pictures, and the work has not been done yet. I hope you are a good welder, if no no big problem. If you don't have a Mig welder you will need one or maybe find a better cab. This cab can be rebuilt to look like new again. If you can't weld you have plenty to practice on. I've been welding for over 50 yrs. but Mig welding is easy to learn. Those pitted holes are as easy to weld up as filling with bondow (which never-never do) Bondow is a problem that comes in a can and will come back to haunt you later. There are easy ways to weld up these holes and patch panels. I have some good information for if you are interested. I would rather post it here on the forum so everyone can see it instead of a post to just you. Reply if interested. Shelby, Sacramento

a couple of photos before and after

Hi Shelby,
That's really nice work. I have a lot of repairs to do to my cab also so I'd really appreciate some info and advice on best way of going about repairs.

thanks
Jeff

Jeff, I don't know where you are and what you need to start with. The green coupe has NO bondow or fiberglass anywhere. I used about a pint,maybe, of metal to metal( an aluminum base filler) ( to feather out some rusty pits that was needed to smooth out the surface) , most all the weld needed very little to none. To weld up metal that has small hole rusted through, small holes or small area can be welded with the mig (wire feed or stick welding). Some of you know to use a copper backing behind the metal (tight fit) clamped and held in place ( the copper will not weld to your work, It might stick a little but will knock off. There will be little clean up on the back side. When you cut out a piece to weld in replacement panel you may need a set of clamps (founf at Harbor Freight) specially made for this panel weld in. I also took a copper backing plate and put a slot to put the clamp through to hold the copper backing plate tight to the work. at this point I'll post some to aid in this SOME WHERE When you weld and start to clean your welds DO NOT grind off with the grinding disc if possible, The grinding disc tense to drive the weld down like a hammer. I always use the 4 1/2" cut off disc to grind the welds, polish with the sandpaper disc to fine tune. More later. Shelby, Sacramento

don't know what is going on here

To make a good weld you will need a set of butt welding clamps 8 pc. # 60545 between $7.99-$10.99 from Harbor freight. I have a set that is in the picture at upper right. I'm having a problem posting with this darn computor. more to come if needed. Shelby Most of the replacement panel that I bought would not fit so I made my own Shelby, Sacramento

The sheet metal in the A models Is very easy to straiten and get all the dents out and get it back to original contours. I love doing the metal work and seeing the great finished work. I won't get in to that unless some one is interested and replies. It takes time to look up pictures to post. Shelby, Sacramento

This picture is a copper plate I used for backing, notice I used a copper pipe split to make the backing plate

Thanks for good the info Shelby. I've only ever done stick welding so MIG is a whole new ball game for me. Didn't know about the copper plate trick so will be trying that!

jeff

Jeff, Me to for years I have stick welded. I have 3 stick welders a Lincoln 200 mig. Since I bought my mig I have never used the stick welders. I use the mig solid wire / gas never have used the wire core. You don't need an expensive mig if you buy shop around. most of you welds will be short or like spot welds. Very little continues welds. You have to continually work in your panels and spot weld. You will be able to use your stick welder it will work fine I think I have some copper backs posted, They are a great help to preventing burn through and cut down on the back side clean-up Shelby, Sacramento

Shelby you are the master of the metals! Where i used to work the welders would use big thick copper paddles held against the end of a part so thier weld puddle doesnt flow out of the V groove. Im talking a V groove about an inch deep and inch across the top...even after than a quick little twist would unstick the paddle.

Dents are simple for me to remove, but sometimes you have a serious dent and you have a hump or a sink that want go away. Of course do it your way. i've found that it is easier for me to take a hand grinder with a cutting disc and make a slit through the bulge as long as you meed. With a butt clamp (and a copper plate as in 1 of the pictures) clamp the metal together. The copper WILL help in the clean up. Remember to use the thin cut-off disc to do all of you weld grindings for the thick grinding acts as a hammer an give you another dent to work out. Polish you weld with a flat disc (one with sand paper) try to avoid grinds that make the metal too hot to avoid more warp age in your metal. What I do to get the dents out is I use a S/S TIG weld wire about 30" long X about 1/16"(small) S/S wire, You can pick up at a welding supply shop. Pick up several "cause after continues work they will get bent and are useless for this. You can work out your dents to perfect and hold all the body contours also at the same time. It may take several tries to get what you want. If you don't have a body hammer you may need one. I've had my body hammer for 52 yrs. I'll try to find a picture to post Shelby, Sacramento

I've added picture all above This is my # 1 hammer, some of the other tools needed

This shows where the door damage to door and hang, some metal replacement. Also the S/S wire I use to remove the dents and high spots, the copper plate was used behind the slit in the door,weld up grind and finished weld clean up