New member, new to the AA's

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
Joshyk88
Posts: 8
Joined: April 26th, 2017, 5:12 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928

New member, new to the AA's

Post by Joshyk88 »

Hey guys, been creeping in the shadows for a couple weeks now. Just recently purchased a 28-29(?) AA rolling chassis with engine, 3 speed trans and 2speed aux. plus a full cowl with fuel tank installed, 2 extra fuel tanks tanks, 4 steering columns, 2 steering wheels, radiator, shroud, front windshield and spare tire mount all for $900! A 6 hour round trip in the pouring rain and I made it home!

Where do I start!? I'm thinking of throwing it up on jack stands, taking the wheels off sending those to get sandblasted, then start to take apart the brakes to inspect and fix. 3 of the 4 tires are flat and have holes/rips., the brakes seem to be kind of stuck, motor is somewhat incomplete and have not gotten into it yet as I've got a good line on a good running motor and tranny locally for $500 that will be good enough for now. Will rebuild the original motor later when extra funds are avaliable. Then to find a cab...

What have I gotten myself into?!

The frame is 110% solid and cleaner than the frame on my 2006 f250!

Thanks in advance. -josh from CT
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dhetch
Posts: 54
Joined: May 16th, 2011, 5:48 am
Body Type: Stake Body
Model Year: 1928
Location: Lakeville, MN

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by dhetch »

Hi Josh, welcome to the hobby.
The first thing I would recommend is cleaning off the serial number on the frame and taking a picture of it. The AA club has instructions as to where it is and approx. when it was built. You will find this very valuable for every part you buy.
Next join the AA club and get all of Neil's tech info. Best $40-50 bucks you can spend. In the 2017 Double AAer there is an article about which gear lubes are compatible with the bronze gear in your worm gear differential. Yes, yours is one of those that you can destroy the gears if you put the wrong lube in it.
As far as your starting with blasting the wheels, that is one of the last things I would do. If you do the wheels now, you will have to spend some real cash for new tires, flaps, tubes, etc. If the restoration takes you 6 years, you will have your money tied up in 6 year old tires by the time you need them. There are even different valve stems depending on when the truck is made. Don't buy anything until you have read Neil's tech info.

You did good by asking for suggestions. You will find out that you will get many conflicting suggestions, it is up to you to figure out which are the correct ones for you.
Good Luck
Dave
flatford39
Posts: 474
Joined: September 24th, 2009, 3:06 pm
Body Type: Express
Model Year: 1928
Location: NE Illinois

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by flatford39 »

I agree. I wouldn't touch the wheels until I have the frames mechanical sorted out. I would also suggest you buy both of Les Andrews books on restoring the Model A. The green and the red book. This is prety good instructions showing how to put the cloth roof on when you get to that point as a bunch of other stuff.

Painted my frame with POR 15 and am really happy with it. Just follow their instructions to a "T" and where gloves. This stuff does not come off your skin easily. I would recommend buying all there prep material as well. I didn't sand blast my frame and it came out really nice.

Looks like your off to a pretty good start.
Joshyk88
Posts: 8
Joined: April 26th, 2017, 5:12 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by Joshyk88 »

Cleaned off the frame as best as I could with a wire brush, can't find anything that remotely looks like number stamps, I did get the number on the block cleaned up real good though, anyone care to give me some info on that, it would be greatly appreciated! (4092211) is stamped on the block.

I am having the wheels sandblasted and then will paint to protect them and store until I finish all the brakes and chadsisbmexhsnicaks before buying tires & tubes.

The engine does turn freely however I get nothing at the rear when I put it in gear and turn it over. Any thoughts on that?
flatford39
Posts: 474
Joined: September 24th, 2009, 3:06 pm
Body Type: Express
Model Year: 1928
Location: NE Illinois

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by flatford39 »

Check your axle keyways for keys. If thy are there than you have a problem in the rear end.
birdacre
Posts: 480
Joined: October 8th, 2013, 2:37 pm
Body Type: AA express
Model Year: 1928

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by birdacre »

where are you in ct? i am near storrs. kevin
Joshyk88
Posts: 8
Joined: April 26th, 2017, 5:12 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by Joshyk88 »

birdacre wrote:
May 9th, 2017, 7:03 pm
where are you in ct? i am near storrs. kevin
Live in Torrington, storing the truck frame in west Hartford for now.
User avatar
Neil Wilson
Posts: 3062
Joined: February 5th, 2003, 9:42 pm
Body Type: 82-A/89-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Boulder, CO
Contact:

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by Neil Wilson »

Joshyk88 wrote:
May 9th, 2017, 2:27 pm
Cleaned off the frame as best as I could with a wire brush, can't find anything that remotely looks like number stamps, I did get the number on the block cleaned up real good though, anyone care to give me some info on that, it would be greatly appreciated! (4092211) is stamped on the block.
The id on the original engine pad would start with "AA". So, if no "AA" to start, then it is not the original engine. The id on the frame would be the original engine id. The location is shown at - http://aafords.com/aa-information/#feidm. Once you find the id on the frame, the table at http://aafords.com/aa-information/#men can be used to determine the year/month of the chassis.
Regards, Neil Wilson
______________________________________
aafords.com@gmail.com - use this email for contact
https://aafords.com/
Joshyk88
Posts: 8
Joined: April 26th, 2017, 5:12 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by Joshyk88 »

Neil Wilson wrote:
May 10th, 2017, 9:59 am
Joshyk88 wrote:
May 9th, 2017, 2:27 pm
Cleaned off the frame as best as I could with a wire brush, can't find anything that remotely looks like number stamps, I did get the number on the block cleaned up real good though, anyone care to give me some info on that, it would be greatly appreciated! (4092211) is stamped on the block.
The id on the original engine pad would start with "AA". So, if no "AA" to start, then it is not the original engine. The id on the frame would be the original engine id. The location is shown at - http://aafords.com/aa-information/#feidm. Once you find the id on the frame, the table at http://aafords.com/aa-information/#men can be used to determine the year/month of the chassis.
Thanks Neil! Did a bit more work with a wire brush still nothing visible for markings on the frame sadly. The engine numbers I found out dates it October 1930 and with the lack of the "AA" I now know that it's not the original. Can't win em all I guess. I just happy I've got a solid frame and will slowly be saving a piece of history by restoring it to as close to original as I can afford, maybe with a few small personal touches.
User avatar
Neil Wilson
Posts: 3062
Joined: February 5th, 2003, 9:42 pm
Body Type: 82-A/89-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Boulder, CO
Contact:

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by Neil Wilson »

Thanks Neil! Did a bit more work with a wire brush still nothing visible for markings on the frame sadly. The engine numbers I found out dates it October 1930 and with the lack of the "AA" I now know that it's not the original. Can't win em all I guess. I just happy I've got a solid frame and will slowly be saving a piece of history by restoring it to as close to original as I can afford, maybe with a few small personal touches.
My guess is the AA chassis is early 1929 (Feb. - April). Based on the rear axle and the wheels.
Regards, Neil Wilson
______________________________________
aafords.com@gmail.com - use this email for contact
https://aafords.com/
User avatar
dhetch
Posts: 54
Joined: May 16th, 2011, 5:48 am
Body Type: Stake Body
Model Year: 1928
Location: Lakeville, MN

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by dhetch »

I would suggest that you check that your high-low is engaged in either of the speeds and is not in between gears. If it has not been moved in a while, it could be hard to move without breaking things. Oil and massage back and forth and it should free up eventually. If you can't wait on the High-Low, you might use a 3/4" wrench to remove the 4 bolt cover on the back of the rear axle and use a 1 1/4" socket to turn the back of the worm gear. If it turns, it will probably turn one or both of the rear wheels. If it turns and the engine does not (assuming the trans is in a gear) it suggests the high-low is not in gear. If you can not turn it, you may have to start separating assemblies.
If the truck is still outside, make sure you use some sealant so water can not enter when you replace the cover on the back of the axle.

Dave
Joshyk88
Posts: 8
Joined: April 26th, 2017, 5:12 pm
Body Type: AA
Model Year: 1928

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by Joshyk88 »

So engine spins nicely, tranny and auxiliary both positively come in and out of gear as well, I will look at taking the rear cover off the diff this weekend as Dave suggested. Then planing on getting into the brakes. Looks like a lot of rain coming my way on Saturday so who knows how much progress I'll make. Sadly the frame is living under a tarp in the driveway when I'm not working on it. Still have to clean out the garage to give it a proper home as this was a last minuet, unplanned purchase lol.
KimVanOrder
Posts: 753
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by KimVanOrder »

I think you have a 29, Disk wheels. Looks like wide rear breaks in back, They would have separate E-brake bands.

The Serial # on the frame should be on the top of the frame, on the drivers side, just in front of the body mount. On my 28 it can be seen with the cab in place. I found mine with a fine wire brush, and WD-40. And white chalk to hi-lite it.. Looks like a great project. As far as where to start? Just start all over at once! You need lots of parts laying around. The more the better. ( But!! take lots of pictures so you know how it goes back together). Also order the parts catalogs from suppliers. Several have exploded drawings that are help full. And start a "file" or three ring binder for all sorts of info.. I also did a daily log of what was happening, who I got parts etc. from. ( PS. you may not want to keep track of $$). I did and have every thing costed. Just don't let the wife find out..


Good luck.
KVO
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
KimVanOrder
Posts: 753
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by KimVanOrder »

Also. On that Pix of the rear end. Just to the left of center of the pig. right where that light spot in the pix is should be the letter stamp that indicates rear ratio. About 8" off center.
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
User avatar
1crosscut
Posts: 877
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: New member, new to the AA's

Post by 1crosscut »

Welcome to the site. Your frame looks good.
The serial number is on top of the frame just about where your left foot would be resting while driving. Maybe just a tad bit forward.
I agree that it looks to be early to mid 29.
If you have the dual high auxiliary transmission behind your three speed transmission it may just be in neutral or it could be one of your u-joints are twisted in half like mine was when I found it.
------------
Dave
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