Drive shaft removal

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
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emf
Posts: 47
Joined: March 21st, 2016, 5:21 am
Body Type: Firetruck
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hudson, NY

Drive shaft removal

Post by emf » July 10th, 2017, 5:22 pm

I just got the call from Mitchell. My gear splitter will be mailed to me on Friday. I've been waiting for 4 months and can't wait. Now to my question. I have a spare rear end with torque tube and radius rods in the barn. Since I want to consolidate some space I thought I would remove the torque tube and radius rods on the spare before tackling the one on the truck. I got all apart except the drive shaft coupling. I see there are two pins that have been peened in the coupling. I ground off the head of one to attempt to drive it out, but no luck. Am I going down the right path here? It sure looks like the pin just gets driven out...

Frank

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1crosscut
Posts: 706
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by 1crosscut » July 10th, 2017, 7:32 pm

You are on the right track. They do drive out.
You may need to drill down the center of the pin to allow the sides to collapse in a bit and then use a long narrow punch in the hole you drilled.
Take lots of pictures of how the installation progresses.
------------
Dave

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emf
Posts: 47
Joined: March 21st, 2016, 5:21 am
Body Type: Firetruck
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hudson, NY

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by emf » July 12th, 2017, 4:06 pm

I had to drill out the pin, but out it came. Now the splined drive shaft is tight in the coupling. I'm going to need a puller of some kind, but I'm out of ideas. Any suggestions???

Frank

KimVanOrder
Posts: 392
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by KimVanOrder » July 12th, 2017, 4:13 pm

Can you make a 'slide' hammer? Also lots of penetrant, heat and cool several cycles, Hit all around it with a heavy block on the back side. Be careful not to damage the worm etc. May the force be with you.
KVO
Dec. '28 AA

Stakebed
Posts: 1082
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by Stakebed » July 12th, 2017, 6:06 pm

Hmm can you make a crude puller of some sort to push between the worm housing and coupler? Might get lucky with supporting it just right so its "neutral" and lining up a block of wood or brass against the worm side of the coupler and smacking with a hammer.

User avatar
emf
Posts: 47
Joined: March 21st, 2016, 5:21 am
Body Type: Firetruck
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hudson, NY

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by emf » July 13th, 2017, 4:49 am

After some thought, I have decided that the best way is to drill out both pins and pull the long drive shaft along with the coupling away from the worm. Then I can pull the coupling from the drive shaft. I had thought prior to this that the coupling could stay on the work and avoid removing both pins. Also, anyone have a source for the soft pins? I have not found any yet...

Frank

Stakebed
Posts: 1082
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by Stakebed » July 13th, 2017, 7:11 am

suppliers sell a replacement pin kit for like $3

Bob C
Posts: 1087
Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
Location: SO CAL

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by Bob C » July 13th, 2017, 8:38 am

Like Stakebed said Snyder's has the pin set for the 1928-29 coupling AA-4707-AS.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/drive ... ng-pin-set

Bob

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gunmetal 2
Posts: 208
Joined: April 1st, 2013, 12:51 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by gunmetal 2 » July 13th, 2017, 5:58 pm

To get the coupler and shaft apart you have to heat the coupler cherry red and then us a flat bar and hammer a big hammer. to drive off the coupler from the shaft. you will have to clamp the one shaft down so when you hit the coupler the shaft stay's in place.

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emf
Posts: 47
Joined: March 21st, 2016, 5:21 am
Body Type: Firetruck
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hudson, NY

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by emf » July 14th, 2017, 8:42 am

I found the pin set at Snyders, guess I just read past it... I got the coupling off, no heat, no big hammer. Sometimes the Force is with you. I drilled the pins (amazingly soft) and put my bearing separator with a couple of 1/2" bolts and pushed it off. I hope the rest of the installation goes as smoothly, but somehow, I think there will be a few snags.

Frank
Attachments
IMG_4925.JPG
Bearing Separator in place
IMG_4925.JPG (147.2 KiB) Viewed 696 times
IMG_4923.JPG
First pin drilled
IMG_4923.JPG (129.71 KiB) Viewed 696 times

User avatar
emf
Posts: 47
Joined: March 21st, 2016, 5:21 am
Body Type: Firetruck
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hudson, NY

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by emf » July 17th, 2017, 4:39 pm

OK, I'm getting some parts together while I wait for the Mitchell to arrive. Things like torque tube gaskets, collar pins, seals, etc. One puzzle for you AA gurus, I ordered the replacement collar pins, expecting to get two soft pins that need to be mashed once installed, like the ones I drilled out. Instead, I got one soft one and one hardened clevis pin that is secured with a washer and a cotter pin. The instructions clearly state that the hardened pin should go to the rear of the collar and the soft one should go to the front. ????? Why are there two different pins made of different materials?

Frank

KimVanOrder
Posts: 392
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: Drive shaft removal

Post by KimVanOrder » July 17th, 2017, 5:11 pm

one gets riveted over, the other uses a clip so it is removable.
KVO
Dec. '28 AA

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