Hello

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
Wmegilljr
Posts: 15
Joined: February 9th, 2018, 9:15 pm
Body Type: Stake body
Model Year: 1928
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: Hello

Post by Wmegilljr » February 12th, 2018, 7:12 pm

Bob C wrote:
February 12th, 2018, 6:11 pm
Never seem a 3 speed pattern like that, this is the 4 speed.

Bob
Bob,
Just took truck for a quick drive in my development, I stand corrected, it is a 4 speed. I do not understand how but 4th was stuck, after a few attempts I got it to grind and then mesh. Truck went much faster lol. I have only taken out the truck twice now and I am so used to modern standard transmissions that I naturally push over and down for reverse that I did not realize I was skipping 4th. Did not help that the previous owner told me it was a 3 speed.

Long story short I need to learn A LOT more about the truck before I say what it is for sure. sorry for the confusion.

User avatar
Chris Haynes
Posts: 1934
Joined: September 7th, 2003, 5:18 pm
Body Type: 82A
Model Year: 1930
Location: North Hills, CA/ Pine Grove, CA

Re: Hello

Post by Chris Haynes » February 12th, 2018, 7:16 pm

Wmegilljr wrote:
February 12th, 2018, 5:31 pm
Just got home, engine is stamped. *AA532 622* that should be october 1928 if my chart is right.
Frame data plate is missing or if frame is stamped I do not see it.
You can't see the frame number until the body and splash apron on the drivers side are removed. Not one of Henry's better ideas.
October 1928 the 1929 models were in production.

KimVanOrder
Posts: 405
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: Hello

Post by KimVanOrder » February 13th, 2018, 7:12 am

Wmegilljr wrote:
February 12th, 2018, 5:31 pm
Just got home, engine is stamped. *AA532 622* that should be october 1928 if my chart is right.
Frame data plate is missing or if frame is stamped I do not see it.
On my '28 the frame is stamped on the drivers side, by the starter, Just in front of the cab. On the top of the frame and into the frame. the last digit is within a 1/4" of the cab. My engine is Oct. and the frame is Dec. Take a close look and see if you can find the frame stamp. Then you will at least know what it started out as..
KVO
Dec. '28 AA

User avatar
Neil Wilson
Posts: 2505
Joined: February 5th, 2003, 9:42 pm
Body Type: 89-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Boulder, CO
Contact:

Re: Hello

Post by Neil Wilson » February 13th, 2018, 7:36 am

Wmegilljr wrote:
February 12th, 2018, 11:13 am
Thanks Brady! here is a photo of the truck
FYI - The truck pictured has Coupe or Tudor doors (best identified by the lower hinge). There must be filler above the door to make up the height difference. It is most likely that the front of the body (hinge pillars forward) is from a Coupe or Tudor given the sun visor and the fact that the roof appears to rest on top?

It would be interesting to know how the door were made to fit/work at the lock pillar. I don't recall seeing this type of conversion before. Anyone else seen this?
Regards, Neil Wilson
______________________________________
neil@aafords.com - use this email for contact
www.aafords.com - AA information and photographs

Stakebed
Posts: 1114
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Hello

Post by Stakebed » February 13th, 2018, 8:13 am

I think we need good outdoor pics of all angles. Looks like a beautiful truck that someone took some time to create! I love the super deluxe pin striping on the hood and doors!

Wmegilljr
Posts: 15
Joined: February 9th, 2018, 9:15 pm
Body Type: Stake body
Model Year: 1928
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: Hello

Post by Wmegilljr » February 13th, 2018, 10:44 am

Well, it look like i have a nice Frankenstein truck, guess i will never win any competitions! Oh well i like the truck and i did not pay too much for it so it will just be a fun truck to have. I hope to work on it again this weekend and will take some photos of it. I plan on packing the wheel bearings, adjusting the brakes and rewiring the lighting system. I need to do some more research on the rear bearings and how they are put in and do they get grease packed, or are they wet from the differential oil? I am assuming it is a live shaft keyed to the drum so the bearings should be inside the hub end correct?

Stakebed
Posts: 1114
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Hello

Post by Stakebed » February 13th, 2018, 11:04 am

Wmegilljr wrote:
February 13th, 2018, 10:44 am
Well, it look like i have a nice Frankenstein truck, guess i will never win any competitions! Oh well i like the truck and i did not pay too much for it so it will just be a fun truck to have. I hope to work on it again this weekend and will take some photos of it. I plan on packing the wheel bearings, adjusting the brakes and rewiring the lighting system. I need to do some more research on the rear bearings and how they are put in and do they get grease packed, or are they wet from the differential oil? I am assuming it is a live shaft keyed to the drum so the bearings should be inside the hub end correct?
you got it. fyi each rear bearing takes just about a 1 lb can if the bearings are bone clean. There is a thin snapring holding the seal in that holds the bearing in BTW.

Front bearings are no different than a modern vehicle with spindles up front.

if it doesnt have it already id consider cleaning the battery ground and adding one from the frame rail to one of the transmission to engine bolts. Also on the lights many people run a seperate ground from the bulb housing to the frame rails instead of relying on the headlight bar bolts brackets etc to provide a ground.

Bob C
Posts: 1116
Joined: April 24th, 2003, 11:50 am
Body Type: Mail truck, Stake tr
Model Year: 1931
Location: SO CAL

Re: Hello

Post by Bob C » February 13th, 2018, 1:24 pm

If you have dual wheels you probably have a 1930-31 bevel gear rear axle, here is a picture
so you can see the seals and bearings.

Bob
The New Ford Truck 12 crop.jpg
The New Ford Truck 12 crop.jpg (170.62 KiB) Viewed 73 times

KimVanOrder
Posts: 405
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: Hello

Post by KimVanOrder » February 13th, 2018, 4:06 pm

You can't see the frame number until the body and splash apron on the drivers side are removed. Not one of Henry's better ideas.
October 1928 the 1929 models were in production.
So my 28 is really a 29?! And the frame # is there, not under the body. And I know mine is original. And as you say, Oct. 28 the 29s were in production, then all the info on #s and dates needs to be changed?
KVO
Dec. '28 AA

Wmegilljr
Posts: 15
Joined: February 9th, 2018, 9:15 pm
Body Type: Stake body
Model Year: 1928
Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: Hello

Post by Wmegilljr » February 13th, 2018, 7:50 pm

Bob C wrote:
February 13th, 2018, 1:24 pm
If you have dual wheels you probably have a 1930-31 bevel gear rear axle, here is a picture
so you can see the seals and bearings.

BobThe New Ford Truck 12 crop.jpg
Great drawing thank you! I understand that there is a washer/seal on the end of the hub behind the hold nut, is it reusable? I don't want to take the hub off and need a seal to finish the job.

User avatar
1crosscut
Posts: 715
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: Hello

Post by 1crosscut » February 13th, 2018, 8:33 pm

There is a seal on each hub on the inboard side of the wheel bearing. There is a chance that you could get them off without damage and re-use them but I would not. Go ahead and order new seals before you start the job. There is a hardened washer on the end of the axle that the nut tightens up against. It is reusable if that is what you were referring to.

To get the seals out of the hubs you will first need to remove the retainer clip/ring. It can be a bit of a challenge. I use a small standard screw driver and an awl. Use the small screw driver to just get it started to move outward and then get the awl behind the retainer and work it out from there.

To get the seal out lay some cardboard or thin carpet on a concrete floor. Hold the drum above it about 2 feet or so with the seal facing down. Drop the hub so it lands flat. The weight of the bearing will push the seal out. You may need to drop it several times to get it out. I have at times had to help accelerate the hub towards the floor to make it happen.

The hardest part of doing something like this is usually getting the hub off the axle. They can be on very tight and take a lot of persuasion to get them to break free.
------------
Dave

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