Radiator repair and engine cleaning

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
User avatar
1crosscut
Posts: 877
Joined: December 25th, 2010, 7:22 pm
Body Type: 82-A
Model Year: 1929
Location: Lincoln, NE

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by 1crosscut »

Boy I sure hate it when I break stuff like that. You are not alone...

Before you order anything take your water pump apart for a look see. Very simple to do. You might just get lucky and the bearings, bronze bushing and shaft will be good. Then all you will need to do is clean, grease and reassemble it. There are two felts in the pump. They can be cleaned with brake cleaner or such if you just soak and squeeze the grease and grime out of them. If you start scrubbing or rubbing them all bets are off.
If everything looks good The only thing you might need to order would be new packing for the compression nut.
Personally I don't see spending the extra dollars for a leakless pump when the originals work so well.
If you decide to go with your existing water pump check to see if it has excessive play in and out. If it does there is a collar available from the vendors that fits on the shaft right behind the fan blade to correct this.
------------
Dave
User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

I called a few of the venders and talked to them about their pumps. Still need to call Bert's tomorrow and talk to them. If I order a leakless one I believe I'll need to repaint it as they all use a different brand or the aerosol version which is slightly different.

I did speak with one of my model a club members and they stated they could rebuild it.

In other news I got a lot of work done today. I got the oil filler pipe out use a strap wrench. I lightly tapped on it with a rubber mallet to get it loose then used the wrench and it twisted out.

I cleaned it up and out a coat of paint on. Yesterday I finished up the license plate brackets and oil return pipe as well. I forgot to use primer so we shall see how it goes.

I cleaned up a lot more of the block and also cleaned out the area above the oil filler pipe where the crack was. I then filled it with jb weld. ImageImageImageImageImageImage

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

More cleaning done. I filled a crack in the block with some jb weld. It was filled before but started to leak. I cleaned it out with a grinder and put two coats of on and let it set for 48 hours.

Bad thing that happened on Sunday was I broke my aluminum fan and found that the lower passenger side casting of the water pump was broken off. The ladder didn't affect any gasket seals. I am contemplating buying a rebuild kit or buying an already built leakless pump Any recommendations on a pump? I don't have the funds for a Rupert super duty pump but can probably swing on from one of the venders.

Today I got a few hours and cleaned up the rest of the block. I removed the distributor and spark plugs to give me better access to cleaning the top of the block. I also removed the starter and generator for more access. If I had more time I would clean up the transmission. But I just don't have the free time right now. My father is coming in a little over a week with the radiator and to get it all back together.

One thing is found when I removed the valve cover today was the possibility of my springs bring wrong. The last two springs are not sitting straight and just going off pics online of replacement springs, I think I have a turn or two too many. The engine runs fine and I also don't have time or money to replace the springs right now and might need to be a next winter project.

ImageImageImageImageImageImage

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

David R.
Posts: 260
Joined: August 17th, 2019, 1:52 pm
Body Type: Chassis
Model Year: 1930
Location: WV

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by David R. »

Service bulletin Page 484 for August 1930 shows the change in design of valve springs. Yours looks like the earlier style. New style is a shorter stiffer spring with less coils. Valve springs are relatively inexpensive.
User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

David R. wrote:Service bulletin Page 484 for August 1930 shows the change in design of valve springs. Yours looks like the earlier style. New style is a shorter stiffer spring with less coils. Valve springs are relatively inexpensive.
Thanks. My engine is a '29 engine so at least that answers that part of the question.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

David R.
Posts: 260
Joined: August 17th, 2019, 1:52 pm
Body Type: Chassis
Model Year: 1930
Location: WV

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by David R. »

Snyders has valve springs for $6.25 a set (8). Although I haven’t done it, I don’t see why you couldn’t replace springs without pulling head. Maybe someone with more A experience will chime in.
azmodela
Posts: 24
Joined: March 9th, 2010, 5:32 pm
Body Type: 82a
Model Year: 1929

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by azmodela »

Those springs, and/or guides need to be replaced. The head has to come off for that. While you're at it you might as well check the valves and seats for replacement. You're losing a lot of horsepower like that.

That crack you mentioned needs to be properly repaired too, it's a future issue waiting to happen. Cracks have a tendency to grow, just like puppies and kids.

You can spend the money now, or later on a tow truck ride. These are cheap cars, try restoring other years and models! Spend the money now and have confidence in your truck.
User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

While waiting to see exactly what I am going to do about the springs I started to paint the block and head.ImageImageImage

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

Tape removed, plugs in, oil tube in, distributor partially in, and water inlet on. ImageImageImage

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

Repaired my water pump. The lower driver's side corner broke off. Not enough to cause any leaks though. I cleaned the break, roughed it up and drilled a hole in each side. I took that drill bit (from an old set) and cut it down to fit within the corner radius. I used jb weld to epoxy it in. Once that was dry I took some jb weld putty and recreated these corner. I let it dry for a day and used a sanding pad on my die grinder and shaped the corner. Came out really nice. I left it rough looking to try and blend it in with the rest of the casting.

Speaking of the casting does anyone recognize the casting? It has CM riveted in on the inside I can't find any information on it. ImageImageImageImageImageImage

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


ImageImage
User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

Got the water pump rebuilt today. Had to get a new fan due to me breaking the aluminum one that was on there. Bought a leak less kit from brattons and got it together. Fan went on nicely with no issue. Brought it home and there was no impeller problem either. It looked like the head already had been worn from the previous shaft though.  

​​​​​​Image

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

David R.
Posts: 260
Joined: August 17th, 2019, 1:52 pm
Body Type: Chassis
Model Year: 1930
Location: WV

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by David R. »

Looks good. I would not have thought of the epoxy repair. I would have likely tried brazing it. My bell housing has an ear broken I’ll have to address when the engine goes back. Mine had a stamped steel 4 blade fan. Wondering if those were ever stock on AA?
User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

David R. wrote:Looks good. I would not have thought of the epoxy repair. I would have likely tried brazing it. My bell housing has an ear broken I’ll have to address when the engine goes back. Mine had a stamped steel 4 blade fan. Wondering if those were ever stock on AA?
The corner is such a small spot and didn't hold any weight per se. There was enough of the corner left that actually sealed it with the gasket. This kept it from leaking. If it was more than this I would have found a different fix or replaced it.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

User avatar
rrich1
Posts: 59
Joined: December 29th, 2018, 4:02 am
Model Year: 1931

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by rrich1 »

Took a couple of hours today but everything is back together. I also installed a good prop and holy cow that is amazing. Being able to keep both sides of the hood open is a game changer Image.

Happy to report the engine ran for a good 20 minutes or so and then water pump didn't leak. I did forget to tighten the fitting on the back of the water neck and so fluid came out from there hence why everything is wet.ImageImageImageImage

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

David R.
Posts: 260
Joined: August 17th, 2019, 1:52 pm
Body Type: Chassis
Model Year: 1930
Location: WV

Re: Radiator repair and engine cleaning

Post by David R. »

Looks good.
Looks like my project is on hold pending virus ordeal.
No worky, no money?
Post Reply