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Has anyone run into the problem with the worm and the drive shaft being riveted together at the splined collier? If so, any suggestions as to which rivet to remove so you can rebuild the grease retainer and large felt seal that go into the end of the torque tube. This has to come apart in order to replace the felt seal. I am using all of the original bearings in the rear end as they all look good and this truck won't be a long distance touring truck. I am replacing all of the axle seals and torque tube seals and bearings. I have also been told it is okay to turn the bronze ring gear around and install it . Anyone have any opinions on this?
Thanks for any help.

I remove the rear most rivet. The housing at that point has a little bit larger diameter giving the replacement pin more room.
I'd be reluctant to swap the bronze gear around as by this time the gears are pretty comfortable running where they are.

Thanks, that is what I thought on the bronze gear.
Charlie

rustya1928 wrote: ↑

October 6th, 2021, 7:58 am

Thanks, that is what I thought on the bronze gear.
Charlie

If the bronze gear is worn or damaged to not be usable, then the options would be to reverse the gear or get a replacement. If the bronze gear is still usable, then don't reverse it.

Make sure you don't use a gear oil with EP additives, it will destroy you bronze gear in no time.

1crosscut wrote: ↑

October 5th, 2021, 6:23 pm

I remove the rear most rivet. The housing at that point has a little bit larger diameter giving the replacement pin more room.
I'd be reluctant to swap the bronze gear around as by this time the gears are pretty comfortable running where they are.

to expand on this yes the rear pin, also the catalogs sell a replacement pin kit that is either a pin with a small cotter pin or they give you a rivet you can peen over.

You really don't need to replace the rear pin as long as the front pin is in place.

Thanks,
So basically this would work like the 30-31 bevel drive shaft and make life much easier putting the drive shaft assembly together.
I am going to use lubriplate spo-288 for yellow gears in the rear end. That is what I read on this site as a recommendation.
Thanks for the help.
Is there any adjustments that should be made on the worm to bronze gear for backlash of any kind? I really didn't notice anything when I took it apart. I am also going to run the original carrier Timken bearings and races. They okay, and I haven't been able to find replacements. Thanks, Charlie

You may want to read the January 1930 Service Bulletin. It talks about the change in not riveting the coupling to the pinion and drive shaft. If the coupling has the one pin removed (the rear one), then a new u-joint has to be used on the front of the drive shaft that has a collar in it to prevent the driveshaft from moving too far forward. A drawing is shown with the u-joint with the collar.

Keith