This is a bit confusing

[jt3d3b]

The guy I bought my Model AA from said it was built in April, 1929. It has the small back window and the step in the body between the cab and the cowl. I bought a 1929 radiator for it and it barely fits. There is between 1/2 to 5/8" clearance between the lower radiator hose and the fan belt. And the 1929 radiator shell does not fit, the mounting braces on the radiator stick out maybe 3/8" too far for the screws to go in. Also, the hole in the radiator shell is barely wide enough for the neck of the radiator to fit and when the radiator has the shell on the radiator cap won't fit. Someone saw a picture of the front crossmember and said the hand crank guide on the crossmember is for a 1930. So, I thought I'd check the engine number to make sure it is a 1929. According to one list I looked at, my engine's number is an April, 1930 number. And I read that 1930 front crossmembers show up on 1929 trucks.

My question is, do 1929 cabs show up on 1930 trucks?

Is the 1930 front crossmember different enough from the 1929 that the radiator shell won't fit?

There's one other thing I was curious about. I bought new window actuator mechanisms. What the parts house sent looked nothing like what was in my truck. I sent the parts house one of the actuators and they said it was out of a Model T. Has anyone ever come across this?

[Neil Wilson]

Please provide photos of what you are talking about.

[jt3d3b]

The clearance between the fan belt and radiator hose.

This is the radiator shell that was on the truck when I bought it.

The mismatch between the radiator shell mounting bolts and the brackets on the radiator.

Another view of the mismatch between the mounting bolt holes in the radiator shell and mounting brackets.

These are NOT very good pictures. I have better ones but I couldn't upload them. I got a message that said they are too large. If these pics are too poor let me know and I'll figure out another way of getting the other pics up.

Thanks!!!

[jt3d3b]

[Bob C]

How about some pictures of the radiator? Looking at the gas cap and mirror I think you have an early 1930 but
the radiator should still fit the shell.

[Chris Haynes]

I see that your truck has a twist lock gas cap. That identifies it as an Early 1930. The cracker Box cab was used on the 1930 AAs through May of 1930.

[jt3d3b]

the pics are not that good

[Bob C]

Is the radiator shell an original or reproduction? If it's original I would think
the problem is with the radiator.

[jt3d3b]

The radiator shell is the one that was on the truck when I bought it. Given the fading of the paint I assume it's original.

[tiredtruckrestorer]

First check if the radiator is 3 or 4 rows deep. Ford introduced a 4 row deep radiator about March 1930 and used it till June 1930. These looked similar in shape as the earlier radiators but they were 4 rows deep instead of 3 and had 35 tubes per row making a total of 140 tubes used with 1 extra dead tube on each side to support the fins. The bottom mounting bolt holes were punched off center to keep the fan from hitting the thicker core. This radiator required 2 rubber shims on each side and longer mounting bolts. This is covered in the April 1930 Service Bulletins and in the AA Truck Section of the Judging Standards.

I have one of these in the current mid '30 AA truck I'm working on. These trucks still were using up the '29 sheet metal yet also.

Keith

[Corky]

My experience with the reassembly of my mid 29 I had a radiator record . Many months later, after reinstalling it all seemed just fine until I attached the shroud (tried to ) . Long story short , when the new core was attached to the top and bottom tanks the front surface of all three should be flush, in line top to bottom . In your photos I thought that I can see a slight jog from the top tank back to the core , that distance would be approximately the distance you're seeing at the shroud mounting points . Best of luck , these things are great anyway .

[gunmetal 2]

you have the wrong generator for 1929.