28/29 Style Cab on 1930 assembly questions.

[s147881]

I have been working on the 29 style cab on my early 1930 stake truck. I have the following questions:
1) Does the bead welting go in one continuous section from the lower cowl panel over the gas tank to the other lower cowl panel?
2) The original wood roof was completely gone when I got the truck. I am preparing to install new wood. The back of the cab at the top has a rod that connects this rear cab to the panel above the windshield. This is located about 6 inches in on both sides. I do not see these in any of the drawings and I am wondering if they are original or were added to strengthen the cab.
3) Some of the D nuts located around the cab are missing. Is there a source for new ones and what is the official name?
4) Does anyone have a source for just one cab corner - driver’s side?
5) Does anyone have the paint codes for the rock moss green paint for the early 30 model AA.
6) The read that the flat bead should be the same green as the cab. Does this include the stake panels and wood slats? How about the wood frame for the flat bead?
7) I need to change my horn button and rod. Is there enough room to change this after the cab is reinstalled or do I need to do this before? I am worried about damaging the steering wheel during the cab installation.
I am installing a new seat panel. I want to rivet the new one in. I purchased a impact waffle tool. Normally you set rivets with a impact on the head and a bucking bar on the other end. On the rivets on the floor the side I would put the bucking bar on is the end that gets waffled. Can anyone explain how these rivets are installed?

[Neil Wilson]

1) Does the bead welting go in one continuous section from the lower cowl panel over the gas tank to the other lower cowl panel?

Answer - Yes

2) The original wood roof was completely gone when I got the truck. I am preparing to install new wood. The back of the cab at the top has a rod that connects this rear cab to the panel above the windshield. This is located about 6 inches in on both sides. I do not see these in any of the drawings and I am wondering if they are original or were added to strengthen the cab.

Answer - No rods originally

3) Some of the D nuts located around the cab are missing. Is there a source for new ones and what is the official name?

Answer – I see them listed on page 158 of the Bratton’s catalog (2008) under Special Hardware and they call them Clinch Nuts (seven sizes). Other vendors have them also.

4) Does anyone have a source for just one cab corner - driver’s side?

Answer – I don’t know

5) Does anyone have the paint codes for the rock moss green paint for the early 30 model AA.

Answer – sorry I don’t have the code.

6) The read that the flat bead should be the same green as the cab. Does this include the stake panels and wood slats? How about the wood frame for the flat bead?

Answer – The platform and stake racks were originally assembled (two assemblies) and then each painted the same color as the cab. There is no wood frame for the platform (it is all stamped steel parts riveted together). There are wood sills which rest on the frame which were assembled with the rest of the body and painted the same color as the cab.

7) I need to change my horn button and rod. Is there enough room to change this after the cab is reinstalled or do I need to do this before? I am worried about damaging the steering wheel during the cab installation.

Answer – unless you have a way to lower the cab onto the frame like Ford did, I would remove the steering column, transmission tower, brake/clutch pedals, and throttle control to put the cab onto the frame. You will need to remove the steering column to remove the horn/light rod on an 82-A closed cab. You will want to remove the starter to get the column out once the cab is on the frame.

I am installing a new seat panel. I want to rivet the new one in. I purchased a impact waffle tool. Normally you set rivets with a impact on the head and a bucking bar on the other end. On the rivets on the floor the side I would put the bucking bar on is the end that gets waffled. Can anyone explain how these rivets are installed?

Answer – I put the backing bar on the head of the rivet and then form the corresponding finish to the shank end of the rivet (either waffle, round head, etc.). It is best that the backing bar have a indentation to fit the rivet head.

[Onefingerhank]

Howell's
Sheetmetal Co.
P. O. Box 792
Nederland, TX 77627
Call (409) 727-1999
Orders 1-800-375-6663
These guys make the panels for the suppliers. They are a little slow.

[Chris Haynes]

Howell's
Sheetmetal Co.
P. O. Box 792
Nederland, TX 77627
Call (409) 727-1999
Orders 1-800-375-6663
These guys make the panels for the suppliers. They are a little slow.

Not only are they slow but their stuff isn't made correctly and wont fit. They won't return E mail or calls either. BEWARE OF HOWELL's

[REM]

I would call Berts in Denver and see if just one corner could be purchased. They might even have a good original one
I got some RPU sheet metal from Berts. I was a little hesitant of ordering from Howells as I had heard some complaints of their customer service as well as other things. I am sure the parts I recieved through Berts was Howells metal but the fit was ok and I am sure if I had had problems Berts would have made every effort to make it right.
I think it wise to deal with the good vendors we have. They deserve our support and they have the clout to deal with the suppliers. It is in their best interest to keep customers happy.
When dealing directly with a supplier an individual just can't put the pressure on to get results that a vender that does thousndds of dollars in business with them can.

Richard

[Hayslip]

You don't have to completely remove the starter to get the steering column in or out. Just loosen the starter bolts and push the starter towards the block.