28-29 cab center back top and bottom WTB

[s147881]

I am looking for 28/29 cab back center panels - top and bottom. I would like a pair that has had paint gone with a good layer of surface rust. I have truck with no paint that I want to preserve the originality. I also need front panel on the express bed. I seen that Howell sheet metal reproduces these - anyone use their reproduction panel?

[BrianT]

If you do order the top and bottom panels get them thru the venders, then if you are not happy with them you will not get the run around that I have heard about from Howells.
Try to preserve the original strip that joins the 2 panels together, they will most likely be solidly rusted together, the repro is not made very well.

[markt]

I have the front bed panel from Howell's. It actually fits quite well. The boxed top section is made in two pieces and will need some modification to make it look original but this can be easily done.

[s147881]

Thanks for the reply. Any one had any luck rusting new sheet metal fast?

[Jared275]

I have heard of people burying sheet metal to get the rust/patina affect. I would try taking it a step further and sandblasting to match texture before burying. Just my two cents.

[1crosscut]

Thanks for the reply. Any one had any luck rusting new sheet metal fast?

I've done quite a bit of rusting stuff to match my truck. You can get a fast flash over of rust using some combinations of vinegar etc.. just google rusting metal quickly and you will find lots of information. This is okay if you want a thin layer of rust that usually looks fairly orange. Not going to come close to matching the rust on a truck that has seen 85 years of use.

Here's a few things that I have done to rust my stuff.

Get some kosher salt. It's the salt with the big sized crystals. Get your metal wet and sprinkle it on. Try to get as much as possible to stick and let dry keeping as much stuck on as possible. The purpose of this is to let the salt get a grip and put a bit of texture to the metal as it starts to rust. Then mix up a salt solution in a quart spray bottle and mist the metal lightly a few times a day or when ever you happen to walk by it. Try not to wash off the salt granules. The trick is to allow the metal to dry in between mistings as the wetting and then allowing it to dry allows the air / oxygen to do its work. I've tried keeping metal submerged in a salt water solution and it just doesn't rust very fast. Allowing it to dry in between is key.
Now after doing this for a while... maybe a week or two or three take the metal out into your kids sand box and bury it and wet the sand. Keep the sand moist (not soaking wet) for a week or two. This will also get more texture to the metal surface helping the rust to get a better grip.
After you get it textured up a bit more take the metal and set it someplace you walk by regularly and keep a bucket of water and a cup by it and splash water on it each time you go by. If your watering your yard take the metal and put it out where the sprinklers will hit it. Your neighbors will think your a bit goofy for doing this (mine did) but it works.
I did this with my left rear fender to get it rusted up to match the existing patina on my truck. My fender was a new old stock fender and looked brand new when I stripped off the paint to start the rusting process. It took me a full year of working on it but I have not had one person notice that the fender isn't original to the truck.

Good luck on your project.

[papa's ccpu]

What did you do after all the exposure to get the patina look?
Any thing to stop further rust or seal?

[papa's ccpu]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1928-29-Model-A ... c2&vxp=mtr

[spectria]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Model-A-Ba ... 1626558224

[1crosscut]

What did you do after all the exposure to get the patina look?
Any thing to stop further rust or seal?

After I finished the rusting process I buffed it with a fine 4" wire wheel on a drill and then applied Johnsons Paste Wax.

[s147881]

That really looks nice - thanks