my restoration of 29 AA
- gunmetal 2
- Posts: 222
- Joined: April 1st, 2013, 12:51 pm
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
my restoration of 29 AA
http://s737.photobucket.com/user/1929oldlady/library/ this has pcs. so you can look and see what thing look like.
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
a couple of photos before and after
Last edited by SHELBY MESSER on February 24th, 2017, 5:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
Hi Shelby,
That's really nice work. I have a lot of repairs to do to my cab also so I'd really appreciate some info and advice on best way of going about repairs.
thanks
Jeff
That's really nice work. I have a lot of repairs to do to my cab also so I'd really appreciate some info and advice on best way of going about repairs.
thanks
Jeff
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
Jeff, I don't know where you are and what you need to start with. The green coupe has NO bondow or fiberglass anywhere. I used about a pint,maybe, of metal to metal( an aluminum base filler) ( to feather out some rusty pits that was needed to smooth out the surface) , most all the weld needed very little to none. To weld up metal that has small hole rusted through, small holes or small area can be welded with the mig (wire feed or stick welding). Some of you know to use a copper backing behind the metal (tight fit) clamped and held in place ( the copper will not weld to your work, It might stick a little but will knock off. There will be little clean up on the back side. When you cut out a piece to weld in replacement panel you may need a set of clamps (founf at Harbor Freight) specially made for this panel weld in. I also took a copper backing plate and put a slot to put the clamp through to hold the copper backing plate tight to the work. at this point I'll post some to aid in this SOME WHERE When you weld and start to clean your welds DO NOT grind off with the grinding disc if possible, The grinding disc tense to drive the weld down like a hammer. I always use the 4 1/2" cut off disc to grind the welds, polish with the sandpaper disc to fine tune. More later. Shelby, Sacramento
Last edited by SHELBY MESSER on February 24th, 2017, 6:53 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
don't know what is going on here
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
To make a good weld you will need a set of butt welding clamps 8 pc. # 60545 between $7.99-$10.99 from Harbor freight. I have a set that is in the picture at upper right. I'm having a problem posting with this darn computor. more to come if needed. Shelby
Most of the replacement panel that I bought would not fit so I made my own Shelby, Sacramento
Last edited by SHELBY MESSER on February 23rd, 2017, 11:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
The sheet metal in the A models Is very easy to straiten and get all the dents out and get it back to original contours. I love doing the metal work and seeing the great finished work. I won't get in to that unless some one is interested and replies. It takes time to look up pictures to post. Shelby, Sacramento
This picture is a copper plate I used for backing, notice I used a copper pipe split to make the backing plate
This picture is a copper plate I used for backing, notice I used a copper pipe split to make the backing plate
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Last edited by SHELBY MESSER on February 24th, 2017, 10:32 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: May 26th, 2016, 9:57 am
- Body Type: 82-A
- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Tucson AZ
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
Thanks for good the info Shelby. I've only ever done stick welding so MIG is a whole new ball game for me. Didn't know about the copper plate trick so will be trying that!
jeff
jeff
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
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- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
Jeff, Me to for years I have stick welded. I have 3 stick welders a Lincoln 200 mig. Since I bought my mig I have never used the stick welders. I use the mig solid wire / gas never have used the wire core. You don't need an expensive mig if you buy shop around. most of you welds will be short or like spot welds. Very little continues welds. You have to continually work in your panels and spot weld. You will be able to use your stick welder it will work fine I think I have some copper backs posted, They are a great help to preventing burn through and cut down on the back side clean-up Shelby, Sacramento
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- Model Year: 1929
- Location: Illinois
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
Shelby you are the master of the metals! Where i used to work the welders would use big thick copper paddles held against the end of a part so thier weld puddle doesnt flow out of the V groove. Im talking a V groove about an inch deep and inch across the top...even after than a quick little twist would unstick the paddle.
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
I've added picture all above This is my # 1 hammer, some of the other tools needed
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: March 9th, 2009, 8:06 pm
- Body Type: 75-A
- Model Year: 1930
- Location: Sacramento, Ca.
Re: my restoration of 29 AA
This shows where the door damage to door and hang, some metal replacement. Also the S/S wire I use to remove the dents and high spots, the copper plate was used behind the slit in the door,weld up grind and finished weld clean up
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