Need sheetmetal assembly help!

AA Ford Discussion Group relating to the repair and restoration of your AA Ford.
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Stakebed
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Need sheetmetal assembly help!

Post by Stakebed »

Hello all long time no see :) - Ive bit the bullet and outsourced sheetmetal repairs and paint to a local body guy whos done oodles of model A era all the way to modern collision repair. Ive got all the body but the cab and bed done and painted. Cab is next so I can mount the splash aprons, then set cab on top without having to worry about scratching running boards or fenders.

But thats where im stuck and have what feels like a billion questions:

Ive heard the Les Andrews volume 2 has a nice writeup on assembling the 28-29 cab. Ive also been recommended "Restoring the Model A Pickup" by Mac Hils. I dont mind purchasing books but are these worth it? Any other recommendations? I currently have the latest Judging standards and the 2020 version of maficas paint guide.

Where I'm stuck is what all needs to be assembled in what order. Such as which anti squeak and frame welting to use, how much to order of each, and where all it goes - is there a book outlining all this for AA's specifically? Also things like what bolt sets do i need to order to attach all the various smeetmetal parts together and to the frame. Mine has the long running boards and rear fenders. I have been told a place called "3rd Gen" in TN has the correct thickness and widths for the welting and anti squeak.

Speaking of Tennesee - isnt there a guy who advertises on here or "another site" that their shop specializes in properly and permanently restoring the model A gas tanks? They cut them open, sandblast inside and out all the baffles and whatnot so its super clean, weld it back up, check the steering column tank bracket for cracks/leaks, pressure test it, then apply the ethanol safe goop to the inside of the tank. I have forgot his name if anyone knows of this guy...

My cab and doors are in excellent shape even the cowl panels and under the seat pan. The bodyshop recommended a place somewhat nearby who does baking soda blasting and specializes in vehicle bodies so that parts taken care of but that means it immediately needs to be primed at least to prevent rust. Is it OK to then install all the wood over the primer then have it painted? I dont want rot or rust in the future... I have new wood kits (top and door posts) to go in but would need new little pieces like door striker parts that attach to the wood posts and such. I understand the whole cab was assembled, painted, then the canvas top put on at the factory.

Whew sorry for the on-slought of questions but i know alot of this stuff is critical for proper fitting of everything.
KimVanOrder
Posts: 753
Joined: August 11th, 2013, 4:25 pm
Body Type: 82-A Platform
Model Year: 1928
Location: Hamilton, Mich.

Re: Need sheetmetal assembly help!

Post by KimVanOrder »

For ref. I understand the cab is the same as the AA. So maybe you can find info on A's that will apply. Also, road trip!!!! take a ride to the Gilmore Museum near Kalamazoo Mi. Take your camera, and ask a lot of questions. They have at least one AA and more A's on hand.
Also Serial # 1 on hand...
KVO
Dec. '28 AA
Stakebed
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Need sheetmetal assembly help!

Post by Stakebed »

Yea the cab top Rumbler told me the volume 2 of les andrews is good for that. Im sure someones got door post details.

Its the AA long splash aprons and boards im curious about - forward of the cab should be identical to the cars when it comes to welting and such correct?
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Neil Wilson
Posts: 3062
Joined: February 5th, 2003, 9:42 pm
Body Type: 82-A/89-A
Model Year: 1930
Location: Boulder, CO
Contact:

Re: Need sheetmetal assembly help!

Post by Neil Wilson »

Stakebed wrote:
December 7th, 2020, 7:24 pm
Its the AA long splash aprons and boards im curious about - forward of the cab should be identical to the cars when it comes to welting and such correct?
Ford used the term "Anti-Squeak" for welt. Refer to https://aafords.com/aa-chassis/aa-16000-fenders/#ffas for front fender (to shield and on-frame) anti-squeak/welt/webbing.
Regards, Neil Wilson
______________________________________
aafords.com@gmail.com - use this email for contact
https://aafords.com/
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Rumbler
Posts: 127
Joined: May 21st, 2017, 4:27 pm
Body Type: 82-A Stakebed
Model Year: 1928
Location: Central Illinois

Re: Need sheetmetal assembly help!

Post by Rumbler »

Stakebed, here's a link to Neil's excellent summary of cab & door alignment that I mentioned.

http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.ph ... blem#p3315
Stakebed
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Need sheetmetal assembly help!

Post by Stakebed »

Neil Wilson wrote:
December 8th, 2020, 6:27 am
Stakebed wrote:
December 7th, 2020, 7:24 pm
Its the AA long splash aprons and boards im curious about - forward of the cab should be identical to the cars when it comes to welting and such correct?
Ford used the term "Anti-Squeak" for welt. Refer to https://aafords.com/aa-chassis/aa-16000-fenders/#ffas for front fender (to shield and on-frame) anti-squeak/welt/webbing.
This is perfect! As always I cant thank you enough for what you do for this community.

I may have found a typo Neil:

Front fender on-frame/frame-brackets webbing -This webbing was used between the frame/frame-brackets and front-fenders/shields. The webbing was 3/46″ to 1/16″ thick by 1-3/4″ wide.

3/46" is an odd measurement but I may be mistaken.
Last edited by Stakebed on December 10th, 2020, 1:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Stakebed
Posts: 1223
Joined: June 14th, 2007, 7:29 pm
Body Type: Grainbox
Model Year: 1929
Location: Illinois

Re: Need sheetmetal assembly help!

Post by Stakebed »

Rumbler wrote:
December 8th, 2020, 2:29 pm
Stakebed, here's a link to Neil's excellent summary of cab & door alignment that I mentioned.

http://forums.aa-fords.com/viewtopic.ph ... blem#p3315
this is wonderful as well! I checked my frame rails for flatness with string years ago and it was perfect on both sides. I also checked with a tape measure for squareness and it too was dead on. I see now I will need to do the cab alignment on the frame itself and not the stand I made out of an old frame. Id imagine the splash aprons would have to be mounted to do this or does that matter? I could get away with cutting a section out of a mangled splash apron to use as a temporary "spacer" where the splash apron sits under the body I suppose.
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